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Hey...I resemble that comment!!!!
Tom
60 Crown
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 10:01
AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 temperature gauge,
was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Hi Sjak,
thanks for your answer, but there isn't such a
thing as an " idiot light" on a 1960 Imperial.
Problably because these cars were mentioned to be
driven by idiots :)
Best Regards,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 2:49
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Possibly, but consider that not every gauge is in the same condition,
and vehicles may be in very different driving conditions, different climate
etc. A high resistance in the wire to the gage, a worn connector, a slightly
stuck gage needle, etc. will all influence the reading. So two cars
with the same coolant temperature can have different readings.
But if your material is in good condition, a reading somewhere in the
middle is perfectly acceptable on most cars.
If you're not sure, measure the resistance of the wires, check all
connectors, etc. Checking the sending unit itself can be difficult, since on
older cars, it is almost always stuck and impossible to remove it without
permanently damaging it (a replacement is inexpensive btw)
You may want to also check if the overheating warning light ("idiot
light") is working properly.
On 10/23/07, Rob van
der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
That is right Sjak,
But maybe other 60 owners can give me an idea
what the normal reading on the gauge should be!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007
12:17 PM
Subject: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
In my experience from the speedshop, the original Mopar gauges can
often get very inaccurate over the years. This can have various
causes.
The only way to correctly check the temperature is to install a
calibrated gauge and sending unit. This will not affect the originality
of the car, since you can remove it after comparing the readings from
the calibrated unit with the one on your dash.
On 10/23/07, Rob
van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
Thanks for sharing this
Richard!,
Your father is absolutely right, you need
to adjust the cam adjusters (4 in the front and 2 in the rear)
frequently to get a good working braking system.
I have adjusted the way you father
described it, and I must say I have a firm pedal that travel only
halfway to the floor!
Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom,
Kenyon and Charles can jump in on this and tell us how much pedal
travel they have?
And since we are talking about 1960 Imps
here, what is the correct reading for the temperature of our
cars?
Since the weather is almost freezing cold
here, my car doesn't reach normal operating temperature. It just
passed the Cold mark on the dial and thats about it. Since it is a
Californian car I thought the former owner might have installed
another termostat that opens earlier, so I checked it and I was right!
The previous owner installed a 160
degrees thermostat!, I guess to prevent the car from overheating in
hot Californian summers.
I now have installed a 180 degrees
thermostat (OEM standard temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes
higher then ever before! It now stays exactly in the middle of the
dial.
Is this correct?
I have never seen the needle climbed that
high before, so I am a little worried allthough common sense tells me
that the middle of the dial sounds quite good...
Just curious to know the readings on
other 1960 owners temperature gauges!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007
2:47 PM
Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial
brake bleeding
Hi Folks,
After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60
Crown they are finally working properly. I think we bled them
entirely three times before getting everything repaired
properly. The shop that "restored" my chasis did not double
flare the brake lines correctly and had overtightened the flares at
the bronze blocks creating distortion and leaks. We ended up
replacing all of the lines again and the blocks as well, at the
front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site was
helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
floor. See below. Another tip, we elevated our brake
bleeding bottle on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep the
air from returning to the cylinders during the bleeding
process. After all of this my father had this to say:
For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake
Bleeding".
The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be
perfectly bled and the pedal still go to the floor if the
brake shoes are not adjusted to require minimal
movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is that with
six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will be at
the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel cylinders have
enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight against the
drums. Chrysler knew this,
as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal goes to Floor" you (a)
check fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust for worn
linings . The obvious implication is that it does not
take much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to the
floor. With the shoes properly adjusted tight against the drum
and just loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still
will not have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor.
That's just the way it is. If you want to see this then
tighten all the shoes against the drums and then see how
much pedal you have. You cannot see this by pumping the
pedal as the strong shoe return springs will push the fluid back
out of the wheel cylinders faster than you can stroke the
master cylinder. Adjust the shoes properly and frequently and
you can get good braking.
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
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