Re: IML: Winter Car Storage/Gas

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ok Paul,

Thanks for your words of wisdom, as always a pleasure to read!
Now let's see if Stabil is available in my country...
If it comes in a small plastic botltle maybe I can order it in the US then, 
hoping that someone will send it in a small box to my place on the earth :)

Thanks again,

Robert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage/Gas


Five months is pushing it for the gas, but fuel in the Netherlands
might be better than here. My experience is that gas begins to
breakdown fairly quickly. After a while (a couple years) it can turn
into powder when combined with a tank in poor condition. Been there,
done that!

Stabil helps prevent the break down. It should be added before filling
the tank, like you do, before the end of the driving season. Run the
engine for a little while after it mixes to get the blend into the
carb. It does work. The gas doesn't seem to develop that characteristic
"old gas smell" as quickly. Once the gas has turned, its too late. I
have been using Stabil in my cars for the last couple of years.

If the car has some bad gas in the tank (foul smelling) don't add more
gas until the old gas is drained. I have found that the bad gas
accelerates the break down of the new gas that mixes with it.

Just more words of wisdom here based on experience, not scientific, but
seemingly true.

Paul W.

Paul


-----Original Message-----
From: Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 2:01 am
Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage



Sorry Fred,



But what is Stabil exactly for kind of stuff?

When is it necessary to add it to your fuel?

And another maybe trivial question, do you store your car for the
winter with an empty fuel tank or completely filled up to the fuel cap?



I have choosen for the last option for the last two winters, cause I am
afraid that an empty fuel tank will corrode inside...



I haven't add any special mystery stuff like Stabil to the fuel, and
the car fired right up after 5 months of storage!

I use always Shell V-Power fuel in my car and had no problems with
storage for over 6 months, but maybe I am trying my luck here ?



Robert


----- Original Message -----

From: Frederick Joslin

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:23 AM

Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage




I live in Eastern WA where the winters are a little more "normal".

I put up one of the carport tents from Costco on several inches of
gravel. I also have a sheet of clear poly over the car which is kept
off the car by judicious use of 2x4.

The poly is needed because there is plenty of condensation dropping
from the roof. I have had no rodent problems, but I do have a dog that
can get to the car.

I certainly like this set up much more than outside storage. The
biggest problem is that the carport is 10' x 20' so the 69 LeBaron only
just fits!

I run my car about once a month get it good and warm and roll it back
and forward about 6' and use Stabil (sp) in the fuel.



----- Original Message -----
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 21:25:03 -0400


Jack's solution here is ideal.

Most of mine are in garages with concrete
floors as well, but a couple of them are
relegated to the carports. Here in Washington
State our winters are mild enough that things
don't get too bad. Keeping the cars running and
moving them around is the best answer for the
ones that don't get to spend the winter in an
actual garage. When possible, they should all
be driven at least once a month.

Some one commented on the collection of water
on top of the tarp, and then condensing under
the car. This has also happened to me. I just
don't think that for my area, tarps are very
good for protecting against much of anything.
They tend to cause as many problems as they
prevent. Truly, the cars need to either be
properly stored indoors, with no gas, and if
possible raised up off the floor, or they
should be driven to keep things warmed up and
moving around.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: YBSHORE@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 1:28 pm
Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage




In a message dated 9/25/2007 4:41:32 P.M.
Eastern Daylight Time, randalpark@xxxxxxx
writes:

Last year I put a tarp underneath one of my cars, parked in a car port.
Gradually, the hood insulation pad began to disappear. In the spring
when I removed the tarp from under the car, I found it, along with two
giant brown rats. I won't be doing that again. I'll just have to move
the cars around more often and try to drive them occasionally to keep
them dry.

Paul W.




Imperialist Paul, et al:



I am fortunate enough to have dry,
concrete floor barn [unheated except for an
isolated shop at the rear] that I store my
cars in and, I found that the concrete has a
breathing factor as well -although I start and
'rotate' the cars around on nicer winter days
here in New England, just as a matter of course
--I have wondered about concrete-to-tire
issues, and not just flat spots-- though I do
not leave the cars in one place long enough
for that to happen, generally.....anyway,
though inside, I lessened my moisture/mold
concerns a few years ago by going to the local
Lowe's and for 5 bucks a sheet for 7/16
sheathing, I layed the 4 X 8 sheets out on the
barn floor butt to butt and in conjunction with
a GOOD cover, I have been able to
stay unscathed and the cars remain turnkey
all winter, and as fresh as when I 'rested
them' for the season....just the old .02 from
gorgeous New England today where the 80+ degree
weather has been very good to the '56 Imperial
and her touring....and thank you, too, WPC as
well as Mr. Exner, for I NEVER tire of looking
at her....



Jack




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Fred Joslin




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