Stabil helps prevent the break down. It should be added before filling the tank, like you do, before the end of the driving season. Run the engine for a little while after it mixes to get the blend into the carb. It does work. The gas doesn't seem to develop that characteristic "old gas smell" as quickly. Once the gas has turned, its too late. I have been using Stabil in my cars for the last couple of years.
If the car has some bad gas in the tank (foul smelling) don't add more gas until the old gas is drained. I have found that the bad gas accelerates the break down of the new gas that mixes with it.
Just more words of wisdom here based on experience, not scientific, but seemingly true.
Paul W. Paul -----Original Message----- From: Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 2:01 am Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage Sorry Fred, But what is Stabil exactly for kind of stuff? When is it necessary to add it to your fuel?And another maybe trivial question, do you store your car for the winter with an empty fuel tank or completely filled up to the fuel cap?
I have choosen for the last option for the last two winters, cause I am afraid that an empty fuel tank will corrode inside...
I haven't add any special mystery stuff like Stabil to the fuel, and the car fired right up after 5 months of storage!
I use always Shell V-Power fuel in my car and had no problems with storage for over 6 months, but maybe I am trying my luck here ?
Robert ----- Original Message ----- From: Frederick Joslin To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:23 AM Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage I live in Eastern WA where the winters are a little more "normal".I put up one of the carport tents from Costco on several inches of gravel. I also have a sheet of clear poly over the car which is kept off the car by judicious use of 2x4.
The poly is needed because there is plenty of condensation dropping from the roof. I have had no rodent problems, but I do have a dog that can get to the car.
I certainly like this set up much more than outside storage. The biggest problem is that the carport is 10' x 20' so the 69 LeBaron only just fits!
I run my car about once a month get it good and warm and roll it back and forward about 6' and use Stabil (sp) in the fuel.
----- Original Message ----- From: randalpark@xxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 21:25:03 -0400 Jack's solution here is ideal. Most of mine are in garages with concrete floors as well, but a couple of them are relegated to the carports. Here in Washington State our winters are mild enough that things don't get too bad. Keeping the cars running and moving them around is the best answer for the ones that don't get to spend the winter in an actual garage. When possible, they should all be driven at least once a month. Some one commented on the collection of water on top of the tarp, and then condensing under the car. This has also happened to me. I just don't think that for my area, tarps are very good for protecting against much of anything. They tend to cause as many problems as they prevent. Truly, the cars need to either be properly stored indoors, with no gas, and if possible raised up off the floor, or they should be driven to keep things warmed up and moving around. Paul W. -----Original Message----- From: YBSHORE@xxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 1:28 pm Subject: Re: IML: Winter Car Storage In a message dated 9/25/2007 4:41:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, randalpark@xxxxxxx writes: Last year I put a tarp underneath one of my cars, parked in a car port. Gradually, the hood insulation pad began to disappear. In the spring when I removed the tarp from under the car, I found it, along with two giant brown rats. I won't be doing that again. I'll just have to move the cars around more often and try to drive them occasionally to keep them dry. Paul W. Imperialist Paul, et al: I am fortunate enough to have dry, concrete floor barn [unheated except for an isolated shop at the rear] that I store my cars in and, I found that the concrete has a breathing factor as well -although I start and 'rotate' the cars around on nicer winter days here in New England, just as a matter of course --I have wondered about concrete-to-tire issues, and not just flat spots-- though I do not leave the cars in one place long enough for that to happen, generally.....anyway, though inside, I lessened my moisture/mold concerns a few years ago by going to the local Lowe's and for 5 bucks a sheet for 7/16 sheathing, I layed the 4 X 8 sheets out on the barn floor butt to butt and in conjunction with a GOOD cover, I have been able to stay unscathed and the cars remain turnkey all winter, and as fresh as when I 'rested them' for the season....just the old .02 from gorgeous New England today where the 80+ degree weather has been very good to the '56 Imperial and her touring....and thank you, too, WPC as well as Mr. Exner, for I NEVER tire of looking at her.... Jack ------------------------------------------------------------ See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage. ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm Fred Joslin ________________________________________________________________________Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
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