In restoring my 56 The outer, rear window sills of the coupe were so badly
pitted the chrome plater refused to plate them. The cost of casting new
parts was prohibitive because of the compound angles, so I had them painted and
no one ever knew until I told them. This fellow sands the parts, uses
body filler to smooth the part, applies a special base coat, then a metalized
paint and then a clear coat. Some of my parts came out with a “yellow”
cast to them compared to the chrome and he is working to tone this down by
using more blue in the process. Most folks didn’t notice the yellowing. This process is ideal for interior parts and the cost is
between 40-60% of chrome plating. He did my inside door trim, the inside
windshield trim, a C-pillar medallion and the gold front Imperial emblem as
well as the window sills. He is setting up to do this full time and I
would recommend him highly. His name is Don Pirre and he operates out of If you have questions, feel free to email me or contact him
directly. From: You can also replace the internal gauge regulator with a
separate unit, mounted anywhere under the dash; but you have to do a little bit
of re-wiring to install it. Kens’ suggestion is easier, if you have
a good spare fuel gauge. It is a simple three terminal device: 12 volts in, ground
for the case, and 5 volts out – which goes to the fuel, oil and temp
gauges. The ammeter does not require the 5 volts.
From: The voltage regulator for the gauges is
cleverly hidden inside the fuel gauge. If you have the spare panel with a
good fuel gauge, just swap it out. Someone had mentioned some time back about
a place that restores these units. Unfortunately, it was one of the many
posts that fell victim to the ‘delete’ key. Ken 67 Crown 4 Dr Ht From: Hi all, Working on my 1967 Thank Don Savard No virus found in this incoming message. No virus found in this outgoing message. |