Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!
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Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!
- From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2007 10:34:29 -0500
Good grief!
The easiest way to bypass the neutral safety switch is at the relay on
the fender, using a jumper to the battery from the terminal to the
switch. On 1960 it is the brown wire. I don't know on the others, but
it isn't hard to figure out.
I have used this method to find the problem on many of my cars with
automatic transmissions. If you can't figure it out, study the wiring
diagram.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: hazegreen66@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...and nothing!
Hi, Dan --
This chapter is entitled "How to hot-wire an Imperial". Take a fat
flat-blade screwdriver and jump the entire ignition circuit.
1. Place car in neutral. You will be sad if it's in gear and the
e-brake is off because the car will take off if the starter turns over.
The method I describe bypasses the neutral safety switch. That's why
they call it a safety switch.
2. Turn the key to "RUN". You said "START" does nothing. You are
engaging the ignition circuit.
3. Using the screwdriver, connect the two terminals at the top of the
switch on the bulkhead in the engine compartment, the one to which the
battery's hot wire runs.
It may spark, don't let that scare you. If this works, your problem is
somewhere between that switch and the hot return back through the
firewall from the actual ignition switch.
If this does not work, you have a different problem. Since it appears
you have lights and can see a readout on the ammeter, no matter how
wrong, you have some current through the firewall to the first four-way
split from the hot wire that runs from the bulkhead connector into the
cabin.
Make sure the coil connectors are clean and functioning and do the same
at the alternator. Check coil resistance (it's in the FSM) and be
prepared to replace the ballast resistor. I know you can do this.
With the ignition switch in "RUN", take a voltmeter reading from the
positive wire to the starter with the negative probe on chassis ground.
You should have battery voltage. If not, you definitely have a
problem getting voltage through the ammeter and back out to the starter.
Happy motoring,
David
'91 K-Imperial driver
'66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
--------
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