RE: IML: Was 65 A/C question... now OH NOOO!!!!

["Ernie Stepney" <estepney@xxxxxxxxx>]

Doesn't a rv2 compressor have an oil sump? The one on my '58 has a level
guage hole and a specification for the oil level. I just checked the 64
FSM and yup there is the oil pump and 11 oz. of mineral oil. Did you
check the oil level in the compressor? They die fast if dry!!

Ernie and The Black Bitc_!!

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Chris Hawkins
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:03 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Was 65 A/C question... now OH NOOO!!!!

The engine bogging down likely means your compressor
seized.  That in turn tore up your clutch.  Happened
to me once.  If you can find a clutch for a couple of
bucks from the local Pick-A-Part (any will work if
from a similar compressor) you can try it to see if
the compressor will turn.  My guess is it won't.  So
you might as well get two clutches.  You'll need a
good one (unplugged!) to 

Note:  this particular system does not have a low
refrigerant safety valve.  If you were only seeing a
couple of bubbles, your charge wasn't so low as to
cause any problems.  A sight glass white with a solid
stream of bubbles would be different.

If the compressor is seized, keep your eye open for
deals on compressors as you go through the winter. 
Then convert to R-134.  Best method - imparted to me
by a Mopar aficionado in AZ - is to remove the EPR
valve from the back of the compressor (if the new
compressor even has one).  The EPR valve is too
restrictive for R-134 and diminishes its cooling
ability.  Instead, install an evaporator thermostat
that cuts the compressor on and off to keep the
evaporator near freezing.  Your new compressor will
likely already have R-134 oil in it, so have the rest
of the system flushed of all old oil and debris
(remember, your compressor likely exploded internally,
no telling what got shot through the lines).  Be sure
to install a new R-134 drier with sight glass.  All
this is best left to a pro with the proper equipment. 


Best of luck!

Chris H.

   


--- "Sills, John" <John.Sills@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi,
> Sounds like the safety valve is detecting low
> refrigerant and turning
> off the clutch. Since there is no oil sump in the
> compressors on A/C
> systems the lubricant is mixed in with the
> refrigerant, the low pressure
> safety switch shuts
> down the compressor so it does not seize up from
> insufficient
> lubrication. When the pressure is right on the
> border
> of almost enough to work but not quite enough, the
> systems responds with
> the symptom you describe.
> When you purge a system and recharge it this is
> always observed until
> about 50- 60 % of the required
> charge is in place, then the compressor will stay on
> and the filling
> proceeds faster.
> When you got the e valve to open and the refrigerant
> actually got into
> the evaporator the pressure dropped
> producing the behavior you described, just don't run
> it until you can
> get it fixed. It needs to be evacuated,
> pumped down ( vacuum ) and reloaded with oil and
> refrigerant
> You should convert to r-134a anyway, you can get a
> kit at Wall mart for
> about $40.00.
> Regards,
> John 
> 
> 	-----Original Message-----
> 	From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of eric bruggeman
> 	Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 1:11 AM
> 	To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 	Subject: IML: Was 65 A/C question... now OH
> NOOO!!!!
> 	
> 	
> 	Hello all!
> 	 
> 	    I came home from work today and checked all the
> great advice
> that was given me.  The flaps (blend doors) are
> working like they
> should, the heater water valve is working as it
> should, even took off
> return hose to check make sure, everything checked
> out fine.  I then
> started the engine, turned on the air, and got some
> coolness, but not
> much like always..  The line leading into the plenum
> (the line leaving
> the expansion valve heading into the cabin) was
> frosted as usual....
> soooo in another old mechanic's book I was reading
> last night it
> suggested to pour warm water, or place a hot rag, on
> the expansion valve
> to test it... I did that, and I did start getting
> COLD air in the car...
> 	 
> 	    Now the part I don't like!  Everything was
> great!  I was
> happy!  THEN..... the engine bogged down, and a
> heard just a little
> "squealch" and then the idle went back to normal.  I
> shut the AC down
> right away, but I turned it on again after not
> seeing anything wrong
> under the hood.  I put the ac back on max, and took
> a look at the
> compressor and was feeling the various lines for
> cool/hot... THAT'S WHEN
> I SAW IT!!!!   The clutch on the compressor was just
> kind of half
> spinning/stopping/spinning/stopping..... I shut it
> off right away and
> haven't looked back!!!
> 	 
> 	    I assume that I blew the clutch, but does that
> mean that
> I've also toasted the compressor?    I was getting
> nice cold air for a
> few mins before the clutch went out...
> 	 
> 	    Winter is on they way, so not too worried about
> having air
> right now.  Come next summer when the Sacramento
> heat starts again I
> want to be ready though!  I have my eye/bid on a few
> cans of R12 on Ebay
> and my mechanic has some hidden somewhere.  Should I
> start with a
> replacement clutch from a donor car, have him bring
> the charge up to
> full, and try it from there?  For that one shining
> moment it did work,
> but maybe I overdid it with a low charge?
> 	 
> 	    Thank you to all who offered their knowledge,
> and all who
> will assist now!
> 	Eric 
> 	 
> 	    
> 
> 


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