Re: IML: 1968 Crown Convert - dashboard lighting and headlights
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Re: IML: 1968 Crown Convert - dashboard lighting and headlights
- From: Christopher H <imperial67@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 21:13:29 -0700
Title: Re: IML: 1968 Crown Convert - dashboard lighting and headlights
Since Bill Watson has very well described the replacement of the headlamps by removing the retaining ring, I’ll respond mostly to the dash lights part.
Just because the switch turns on the courtesy lights when slid to the extreme position, it does not mean that the rheostat function is working correctly. It’s almost as if they are separate switches, in that the striker of the rheostat moves across a resistor to control the dash lights, and then, once it’s at the end of that resistor (a series of wound wire, like you took wire and wrapped a block in it), the striker reaches a different contact point and turns on the courtesy lights.
The resistor might still be dirty and making poor contact while the courtesy-lights portion works fine.
Until you have done the “work the thumbwheel until your thumb hurts” operation mentioned by several of the respondents, then don’t waste your time disassembling the dash. If this still does not work, then go at the rheostat from behind, but seriously, you need to try the vigorous self-cleaning method first.
As for removing your headlamps, all round sealed-beam headlamps on any car are held in by the same mechanism that Bill described: a retaining ring with three screws in slotted holes, not to be confused by the horizontal and vertical aiming screws. Your ‘60 is probably identical in this regard.
The retaining ring screws are usually evenly spaced, 120 degrees apart, roughly at 12, 4 and 8 o’clock. You can see the flat tabs of the retaining ring behind then if you look. Once these screws are loosened (you should not have to completely remove them!), you can rotate the ring on the slots to align the round holes with the screws and then remove the ring, upon which the headlamp will probably want to fall out. Catch it, unplug it, and seat the new one so the little tang on the back of the headlamp seats and the fluting on the lens is perfectly upright.
You should not have to remove the grille area (headlamp doors) to change out the headlamps on a ‘68, I’m pretty sure.
Chris in LA
67 Crown
78 NYB Salon
On 8/26/06 2:09 PM, Crestonave@xxxxxxx at Crestonave@xxxxxxx wrote:
Greetings and Salutations:
Thanks to those who responded to my request for help re the non-illumination of my instrument panel on my 1968 Crown Convert. After further review it appears that the panel knob does work because it does turn the rear interior lights (slightly above seat level) on and off. So I guess I'm gonna proceed to pull the instrument cluster to see what else is going on in there. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice, hopefully not in a panic.
Here's a really dumb new question. Couple of years ago I bought the Chrysler/Imperial service manual figuring that it would answer many routine questions about things I'd like to deal with on the car. Yeah, right! I'm confused as to how to get the headlights out so I can replace the sealed beams. I can see what I believe are the adjustment/aiming screws. a retaining ring and other sheet-metal type screws. The heads of the sheet metal screws point toward the grille. Do I have to remove these and what the heck to I use to remove them with. Can someone talk me through this?
Thanks so much!
Tom (Lawn Guyland, New York)
1968 Crown convert & 1960 New Yorker Coupe
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