Re: IML: 1960 leBaron exhaust & wheel covers + question

[Drake Rickertsen <ct_drakeula@xxxxxxxxx>]

The rear window was finished last year to perfection I will have photos of that up perhaps by the end of this year along with many others to follow. I expect this car to be in full show ready condition by the end of 2007. The rear window frame area was spot welded. I dont really know how to describe it but it was a very tricky technique that he went over with me before he finished it out in a fiberglass putty material. It wasnt bondo. It was like a special restoration grade filler lined with fiberglass. All I know is it's pretty expensive.

 

Thanks for the info on the exhaust system Kenyon. I will print out the exhaust system from the site and go over it with Lupe see if it is correct or if we need to redo any part of that.

 

Best Regards,

 

Ct. Drakeula

Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

--- Drake Rickertsen wrote:

> Greetings Club Members
>
>
> I just recently picked up a 1960 Imperial NOS
> Resonator for my 1960 LeBaron restoration project
> and just realized last week after getting the body
> off the frame that this is a dual exhaust system
> that does not appear to have had resonators
> installed on this car in the first place. I cant
> really be sure if this Imperial was originally
> designed to have these resonators installed or not
> because this car had been restored appx. 25 years
> ago. Does anyone know if these were optional or
> factory installed? Also, I am looking for another
> resonator if anyone knows where I might track one
> down.
>


Your car came with resonators. They all did, and the
resonator is what takes the car from softly quiet to
almost silent. A period-correct restoration is
incomplete without resonators on the ends, and most
exhaust shops don't stock them or suggest them. Some
people think that the big block yearns to announce
itself so that people will notice, and that thinking
is great for other cars, but NOT for a "correct"
imperial. It's a luxury car, and thus should be
whisper quiet and refined. The resonator is the key
item. My '66 convertible is so quiet that it's hard
to tell the engine is running if you're on the curb,
especially if there is any other ambient noise like
there is in a city.

The way to tell what's proper for your car is to look
at the gas tank's mounting position. If it is
centered between the frame rails, it is intended for
two resonators, one on each side.

If it is offset, especially on later 1960's cars, it
is intended for a single unit. This also indicates
that convertibles may have had a different gas tank,
but I'm uncertain about this. This will not prevent
one from installing 2 on a car originally built for a
single.

I will be putting two onto my car regardless. The
general "rule" about Imperial exhaust for the 50's and
60's is that the metal-topped cars have a single
system and the convertibles have a dual system.

The main goal should be to have the resonator (a
crucial, often overlooked item, installed with the
exhaust tip arcing up and then pointing down, allowing
installation so that the exhaust flow misses the
bumper (so that it does not stain the chrome over
time) while being invisible from behind the car.
Anything visible will scrape on sharp approach
driveways. Exhaust folks install them sticking out
from under the bumper if not told to do otherwise,
because that's what "everyone else" does on their
trucks and cars.

> Part two of my inquiries is that I have three NOS
> 1960 LeBaron HubCaps and four used ones. I am
> looking to take the best two of the four used caps
> and have them professionally restored. It appears
> that these caps are made of Aluminum with the center
> part made of either stainless steel or chrome
> plated. I cant honestly tell one way or the other.
> Does anyone know where I can get two of my caps
> restored to show quality condition?
>

Those NOS covers are considered by collectors to be
the holy grail of wheel-cover collecting. A single
recently went on ebay for $750.00.

The outer portion is stainless steel and is the same
metal stamping as the standard 1960 cover. If the
stainless portion that you have is compromised, you
may be able to do better getting a less-dented item
from a 1960.

You can have the stainless polished to yeild close to
NOS look.

The center is pot-metal and should be re-chromed. Pay
particular attention to remediation of the pits in the
chrome. The chrome shop should charge extra to deal
with them. The customer should be incredibly finicky
and prepared to send the thing back if not perfectly
to their liking. Be prepared for some problems
regarding pits unless you send them out to a place
that specializes in pits, says so, and charges a
premium for it.

I just got through waiting 6 months on 2 pot metal
items for the '55 and they still aren't right, but I
won't be dealing with that vendor again so will take
my lumps and move on. It was a bad experience, so
watch out and get clear understanding in writing up
front about what you will/won't be paying for - that
paper could help on the back end when the chromer
starts shrugging his shoulders and demanding payment
in full for compromised work.


The real killer is the plastic centers on the cover.
If what you have is compromised, George Laurie and/or
Emblemagic make them - be prepared to wait. If the
plastic is good but the color isn't, take a trip to
the local hobby store and buy fine brushes and model
paints. Clean what you have and paint - you'll be
pleasantly surprised how well that can work.


Can you please share what you intend to do about the
rear window leading issue? My welding/body-filler
story is on my Epic on the website, Luke Nola had
100% lead used, and I'm curious to hear what others
do.


Kenyon
1960 LeBaron fan


Kenyon Wills
























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