--- Drake Rickertsen <ct_drakeula@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Greetings Club Members > > > I just recently picked up a 1960 Imperial NOS > Resonator for my 1960 LeBaron restoration project > and just realized last week after getting the body > off the frame that this is a dual exhaust system > that does not appear to have had resonators > installed on this car in the first place. I cant > really be sure if this Imperial was originally > designed to have these resonators installed or not > because this car had been restored appx. 25 years > ago. Does anyone know if these were optional or > factory installed? Also, I am looking for another > resonator if anyone knows where I might track one > down. > Your car came with resonators. They all did, and the resonator is what takes the car from softly quiet to almost silent. A period-correct restoration is incomplete without resonators on the ends, and most exhaust shops don't stock them or suggest them. Some people think that the big block yearns to announce itself so that people will notice, and that thinking is great for other cars, but NOT for a "correct" imperial. It's a luxury car, and thus should be whisper quiet and refined. The resonator is the key item. My '66 convertible is so quiet that it's hard to tell the engine is running if you're on the curb, especially if there is any other ambient noise like there is in a city. The way to tell what's proper for your car is to look at the gas tank's mounting position. If it is centered between the frame rails, it is intended for two resonators, one on each side. If it is offset, especially on later 1960's cars, it is intended for a single unit. This also indicates that convertibles may have had a different gas tank, but I'm uncertain about this. This will not prevent one from installing 2 on a car originally built for a single. I will be putting two onto my car regardless. The general "rule" about Imperial exhaust for the 50's and 60's is that the metal-topped cars have a single system and the convertibles have a dual system. The main goal should be to have the resonator (a crucial, often overlooked item, installed with the exhaust tip arcing up and then pointing down, allowing installation so that the exhaust flow misses the bumper (so that it does not stain the chrome over time) while being invisible from behind the car. Anything visible will scrape on sharp approach driveways. Exhaust folks install them sticking out from under the bumper if not told to do otherwise, because that's what "everyone else" does on their trucks and cars. > Part two of my inquiries is that I have three NOS > 1960 LeBaron HubCaps and four used ones. I am > looking to take the best two of the four used caps > and have them professionally restored. It appears > that these caps are made of Aluminum with the center > part made of either stainless steel or chrome > plated. I cant honestly tell one way or the other. > Does anyone know where I can get two of my caps > restored to show quality condition? > Those NOS covers are considered by collectors to be the holy grail of wheel-cover collecting. A single recently went on ebay for $750.00. The outer portion is stainless steel and is the same metal stamping as the standard 1960 cover. If the stainless portion that you have is compromised, you may be able to do better getting a less-dented item from a 1960. You can have the stainless polished to yeild close to NOS look. The center is pot-metal and should be re-chromed. Pay particular attention to remediation of the pits in the chrome. The chrome shop should charge extra to deal with them. The customer should be incredibly finicky and prepared to send the thing back if not perfectly to their liking. Be prepared for some problems regarding pits unless you send them out to a place that specializes in pits, says so, and charges a premium for it. I just got through waiting 6 months on 2 pot metal items for the '55 and they still aren't right, but I won't be dealing with that vendor again so will take my lumps and move on. It was a bad experience, so watch out and get clear understanding in writing up front about what you will/won't be paying for - that paper could help on the back end when the chromer starts shrugging his shoulders and demanding payment in full for compromised work. The real killer is the plastic centers on the cover. If what you have is compromised, George Laurie and/or Emblemagic make them - be prepared to wait. If the plastic is good but the color isn't, take a trip to the local hobby store and buy fine brushes and model paints. Clean what you have and paint - you'll be pleasantly surprised how well that can work. Can you please share what you intend to do about the rear window leading issue? My welding/body-filler story is on my Epic on the website, Luke Nola had 100% lead used, and I'm curious to hear what others do. Kenyon 1960 LeBaron fan Kenyon Wills ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm