RE: IML: Question
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RE: IML: Question
- From: "bill parker" <hemirr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 19:13:30 +0000
It does seem a little odd that it was driving OK and just a few days of
sitting, it won't prime through the system. Does it run as long as you keep
pouring a little gas? If it is shutting off as soon as you release the key
from the start position, you probably need a new ballast resistor. If it
definately is fuel, then here are some of the things to consider: The fuel
pump diaphragm may crack from age; the check ball in the fuel pump may stop
seating well enough to self prime the pump due to muck and corrosion around
it, the arm may bend or break off, usually if it isn't getting oil and the
push rod wears through it. The push rod itself can wear down on either end,
usually again due to oil not getting up to it from sludge, and also, when
you put a new cam in without putting assembly lub on the fuel pump eccentric
it can wear the pushrod quickly, I found that one out the hard way about 250
miles from home once. And of course the cam may be worn down too much to
create enough suction in the pump to prime itself. Then, there are cracks
in the suction end of things, either the hose from hard line to fuel pump,
or hose from tank pickup to hard line. Of course the filter "sock" in the
tank can get plugged, this probably would happen if the car sat for a long
time, then you got it running and drove it around, then when it sits again
the stuff stirred up settles around the lowest part of the tank, where the
sock is too. You can blow compressed air back through the system which
probably will blow the sock off if it is plugged, which may let you get
going, just remember it will be sucking the muck up through the line then
until you clean the tank out. Also check the filter between the pump and
carb. Another possibility is a stuck needle in the seat in that AFB, or
enough muck in the primary bowls to have clogged both primary jets, not
common in AFB type carbs though since the needles go down through the jets
and kind of help keep stuff from settling in too much as they run up and
down with vacuum changes, although of course the needles themselves could
get stuck too. I'd try putting a pump on first, I think cheap ones are
$20-ish generally, and take a look at the pushrod while you're at it. I
generally pull the pushrod out to inspect it, then put it back in slathered
with wheel bearing grease to get a good start at lubrication and also to
help hold it in the "up" position so you can put the plug back in then get
the fuel pump positioned right without interference. When you look at the
pushrod, if both of the unpolished ends are equal length, it is probably OK,
because in my experience at least it generally will wear one end or the
other but not both. I'm sure I missed something to check, but that's what
comes to mind.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana
'60 Chrysler Saratoga kustom; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart convertible;
'65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now
360; '70 Challenger now 440; '72 Cuda '340
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