Re: IML: Preping a '60 Imperial to paint

["jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>]

The roof trim has studs with nuts inside under the headliner. If you are 
very careful, you can pull back the edge of the headliner to get in there to 
remove the nuts. When you put them back, be sure to put some goo around the 
studs so they don't leak water into the car.
John
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Scott" <shelbyguy@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Preping a '60 Imperial to paint


Richard,
Very timely email...thanx.  I'm going to start my search for someone to 
paint my 60 this week.  I was wondering how all the trim pieces attached, 
especially the side mouldings.  Do you know whether the roof moldings 
(seperating the roof from the accent panels) are attached with nuts or just 
pins/clips.  I'd hate to remove my headliner unless it's absolutely 
necessary.
Tom
 ----- Original Message ----- 
 From: richard burgess
 To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
 Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 11:06 AM
 Subject: IML: Preping a '60 Imperial to paint


 Group, A friend asked me about preparing a '69 Imperial for paint and 
thought I would forward my suggestions on the club.

 I am about to paint my LeBaron and I suggest that the following trim be 
removed from any '60 Imprial before painting.

 Remove headlight surrounds, 3 screws.

 Remove side trim on doors, pry up from the bottom and they pop right off, 
use a large flat putty knife.

 trim at base of side glass, also pops right off, has wire clips.

 right hand side mirror, two screws.

 outter flight sweep ring, inner is pot metal and you will lose those pins 
in a heartbeat.
 !

 Wheelwell trim, just screwed on, I found stainless screws at Ace that were 
a perfect match so thats what I use to reinstall.

 tail lights, its a real pain to have to paint around them, 3 nuts per 
side.

 Tap off the door edge guards with a block of wood, you may want to leave 
them off in the end.

 The most difficult thing I would insist on doing is removing the Imperial 
script on the fenders.  It can be tapped from the back and slowly pried off. 
Your fender paint will be so much better if you can remove these.

 I would hope that these items would be removed at the very least, even for 
a driver.

 front and rear side trim is pretty easy to remove if you want to, screws 
where accesible and pop clips (like on the doors) at the ends where they are 
not accesible from the back.  I HIGHLY reccomend that you remove the side 
trim, it is not difficult and I guarentee it is all holding a whole lot of 
dirt.  This also gives you a chance to wirebrush and paint the clips.  It is 
better if the clips stay on the car.  However, if your painter is afraid 
they will cause drips in the paint then they are easily removed by squeezing 
them from the back side.

 The chrome on top of the fins is always clean underneath and takes a real 
contortionist to get them off.  If your arm is 3'6" long its no problem 
getting to that front nut.  I would leave on.

 The trim on the side of the windshield just uncrews and the lower 
windshield trim just pops off.  I would remove these just to get the dirt 
out and rust proof the clips at the base of the windshield

 All trim on the hood is just held on by nuts.  None of this i! s 
difficult, even for a novice.  I will help you along the way.  Nothing 
should go back on with anything other than clips, no adhesives!  Just not 
having to spray around all this stuff will produce a superior paint job. 
Also this allows for much easier paint finishing, not to have to color sand 
and buff around all this stuff.  Also, no clear coat!  I guess you've seen 
the emails lately.  I used Glasurit 22 Urethane Acrylic 22-1250 Jet Black. 
Its fantastic!  Its a German paint I believe, goes on like glass (less 
finishing labor).  The paint alone was about $600 to do my Crown.  It's 
worth every penny.


 Richard Burgess
 '60 LeBaron
 '60 Crown


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