Glenn
Just because you had a mechanic there does not mean much.
You need a 1/2" deep socket and a 4" extention to do the deed after yo coat
the bolt and nut with a break um lose/ anti- stick type of juice. You may
want to do this for about two to three days. I have found that if I do not do
this, I break the bolt ( or two ).
The bolts are really studs from the bottom of the seat frame. There is two
each on each out side of the seat assembly. Under the drivers seat area is a
red wire. Take the clip appart before you try to re-move the seat. This wire
is above the floor, not below it. On the passenger side between the seat and
the floor is a down-ward pointing nut assembly. It takes a 5/8" - 11/16 or
like area sized wrench. Remove this nut. Then pull upward and move the bolt
assembly/ seat torque bar away from the hole. If you have separate seats then
look for this anchor nut on the bottom right of the drivers seat also. And on
seperate seats the red wire will be there also.
Now back to under the car for the seat studs.
Rodger & Gabby Colo Spgs
'47 De Soto Custom w/Fluid Drive & passenger door mounted swamp cooler '62 Crown Coupe w/std A/C & Auto-Pilot '66 Le Baron w/dual A/C & reverbed AM/FM '70 Overlander - InterNational Dbl '77 D150 w/360, NP 4 Spd, 12 Bolt Axle, OEM Buckets & etc
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