Re: IML: window motors

["mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

The 62 has no setscrew or anything on the power window motor.  The motor has 
nothing but a little rubber coupling between it and the gearbox.  A simple 
strap holds it to the body, undo the strap and remove the motor...takes 
longer to get to it than it does to remove it.

Most of the motors in the 62 and 63s I have encountered were Prestolite 
made, very simple in construction.  A plain bushing at the drive end, 
brushes in the other end.  Two thru bolts hold it all together.  Simply 
scribe a line on all 3 main pieces before removing the thru bolts, then 
remove the bolts, remove the drive end ( shaft end ) and remove the armature 
out the drive direction.  You may have to wiggle things a bit, you can slip 
the commutator end out a bit and that will help you keep an eye on the 
brushes and brush springs, but they are usually gummed up anyway.

There are small washers/ shims at each end of the armature, at each end 
plate...just make sure you put them at the same end they came out of.  As 
soon as you remove the end plates you will see them, or as you remove the 
end plate at the drive end and the armature will have them on the other end 
when you remove it.

Once the armature and drive end are out, the commutator end plate and main 
body with the field coils are left.  It is usually not necessary or 
advisable in most cases to desolder the drive end from the main body but it 
is possible. 90 percent of the motors I have taken apart needed the 
commutator ends cleaned, the brushes cleaned and in general just a good 
cleaning and some tlc.

I have found that chucking the armature in a drill, and using commutator 
paper ( a form of abrasive cloth ) will get you there nearly every time. In 
some serious cases where the brushes left a deep impression in the armature 
I held a small fine file against the commutator only long enough to remove 
the depression .  ( Its actually a high spot from where the brushes never 
wear that you remove )  Then follow up with commutator paper.

Once thats done, a good cleaning with a commercial spray electrical cleaner 
or brakleen is next.  Let dry thoroughly, and get a dab of suitable grease 
on the bushings on each end...not too much on the commutator end or it will 
get into the brushes.  You can also take a very fine point file or similar 
and clean the contact points in the commutator end plate, as they are a 
thermal protection for the motor..if it stalls and the points get hot, they 
open and halt current flow.

Now the fun part, you insert the armature in from the drive end, and you get 
to put the brush springs and brushes down in the holder and then carefully 
slide the commutator in between the brushes.  Its not easy for the first 10 
or so times, then you will discover a system that works best.  I hold it in 
one hand, use a long very thin driver to sneak the commutator over the 
brushes in increments, then it will just slip right into place.

Install the drive end, tighten the thru bolts and youre done. I like to take 
my drill and chuck the drive shaft into it again, and turn it each way a bit 
before powering it up, helps reseat the brushes,. but those are seldom an 
issue.  I have never seen a motor yet with over half the brush worn away. 
Go hook up a 12v ground to the case and alternately hook up 12v positive to 
each power lead...but not at the same time ok.   Its important to remember 
the ground is thru the case and only one power lead gets 12v at a time.

Thats all there is to know about the 61-63 window motors.  If you need help, 
just email

Mikey
62 Crown Coupe


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