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The three brake lines from the metering valve under the master cylinder go down and connect to the original lines on the frame, where the original distribution block was. It was a very simple connection using flare unions. The yellow plugs in the master cylinder are where the lines go from the master cylinder to the metering valve. Those are also supplied, prebent, fitted and flared, from AAJ Brake. Once all the part store pieces are purchased This entire change over could probably be done in one weekend, if no changes are made in mounting, like I did. I've messed with street rods and race cars all my life and this is by far the easiest conversion/changeover I have ever done. I love Roger and AAJ Brakes. ( This is not a paid commercial ad for AAJ Brakes. I just believe in giving credit were credit is due. ) | I also installed a power brake kit from AAJ Brakes, to complete the package. I WANT TO STOP!!! My Coronet originally had manual brakes. It was as simple an installation as the disc brakes were. Almost an unbolt and bolt in job, ALMOST. The picture makes the installation "LOOK" closer to the valve cover than it really is. There is more than enough room to get the valve cover off without any problems at all. | ||
And here is a picture of the right side. It all makes a really clean and neat installation, doesn't it. | Another view of the hoses and lines on the left side. The hose bracket is supposed to be mounted on top of the housing if the caliper is positioned in the 3 o'clock position. I had to move it around to the front because of my changing the caliper position. No big deal, you are welding it on somewhere any way. | By rotating the caliper to the 2 o'clock position, you can see it made caliper removal a snap, BUT the bleeder isn't on top any longer. I had to remove the caliper and had hold it with the bleeder on top to get all of the air out of the piston. That should be a one time operation unless I remove the caliper from the hose for some reason. Brake pad changes usually occur more frequently so I went with ease of caliper removal. My preference only. I only had to redrill two holes on each mounting braket in oder to rotate the unit as shown. Also the hose retainer bracket has to be welded in a different place than were the instructioins say. | Here is the finished installation on the rear of my '59 Coronet. I used a '70 Charger 8 3/4 rearend because I wanted a different gear ratio and a sure grip unit. Roger makes kits to fit either the tapered axle rearends or the flanged axle rearends. The caliper is supposed to be mounted in the 3 o'clock position so the bleeder screw is on the top of the piston bore. That put the lower caliper mounting bolt next to the spring and would have been a little more work to remove, come pad changing time. The three big aluminum washer are just to hold the rotor on the axle flange tight, while mounting everything else. So I could check all clearances with out the wheel being in my way. |
The rotor and caliper all mount up perfectly. The bearings and seals for the rotor hub were all purchased at the local NAPA store. Roger also supplies a parts list so you will know what to get when you go to the parts store. | The only concern I had was how close the brake hose is to the upper ball joint nut and cotter key. Just be sure to bend the cotter key so there are no shape edges that will rub against the hose. The hose does have a protective sleeve over it in that area. | Follow the included instructions and everything bolts together perfectly. This is the adapter plate supplied with the kit. | I didn't even need to move the original brake lines or brackets on the frame. I painted the rotors and calipers with disc and drum high temp paint to help keep them looking nice. Then I resurfaced the rotors to clean them up and make the surface true. It only took a thousands or two for the clean up cut. |
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