The Forward Look Network | ||
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8 3/4 Rearend Overhaul | ||
Author: RoyalGate (Show all albums) Some of you want to see some pictures of how to overhaul an 8 3/4 rearend. I just changed the gears and bearings in my '59 Coronet Rearend and tool some pictures as I went along. I hope they will help those who are interested. |
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Throw everything away except the inner race. Do the same thing with one of the Differential side bearings, too. Save them for use later and if you ever overhaul another rearend. | Use a pair of side cutters and cut the cage off of the bearings and remoce the bearings and cage. This will leave you with just the inner race. (I.E. Special Tool) | Here is a good tip very few people think of. You will have to press the bearings on the pinion gear and differential case. YOu JUST REMOVED THE SPECIAL TOOL TO HELP YOU DO THIS. (The Old Bearings) | Install both pinion bearing cups in the case using the bearing and seal installer set. Drivers are usually made of aluminum and won't hurt the bearing surface. Be careful if you use a punch, because they can damage the bearing surface and metal to metal pieces can cause flying steel pieces that can be very dangerous. A good bearing and seal driver set can be purchased from HARBOR FREIGHT, JC WHITNEY, MOST PART STORES, OR A GOOD TOOL SALESMAN and are a very reasonable price. (around $30.00) Buy a few extra bearings and seals that you have damaged and you could have paid for a driver set. They also work on axle seals, engine seals, transmission seals Etc. | ||
Shims installed - measure the shims removed from behind the rear pinion bearing and duplicate that measured thickness with the larger new shims that go behind the bearing cup. This will only be a starting point as the shim pack will probably have to be increased or decreased to get the proper gear tooth pattern, but it is a good starting place. | Here is the bearing cup bore in the case. The notches on each side allow you to use a punch to remove the bearing cup. | Some rearends set pinion depth with a shim behind the rear pinion bearing cup in the case, instead of on the pinion shaft (Picture #7). The overhaul kit from Randy's Ring and Pinion came with shims for either place. I prefer to shim in the case. That way I don't take a chance of damaging the bearing by removing and installing it over and over to get pinion depth right. Either place has the same effect of moving the pinion closer or farther from the ring gear. | Here are all of the old parts that I replaced. Notice: not shims. Save all the shims for possible reuse. Also notice that the old bearings came off in one piece and are reuseable, because of the type of bearing puller I used. Don't throw ANYTHING away until you are completely finished. You never know what you may need them for. | ||
Afterdissassembly and cleaning, here are the parts you will be using and reinstalling. I removed the ring gear because I was changing the gear ratio. If your ring and pinion are reuseable the ring gear need not be removed. | Use the bearing puller to remove the side bearings from the differential carrier. A spacer will be needed to push on the case. This one was included with the bearing puller I use. | Finished Removal. | Use a punch that wll go all the way to the bottom of the bolt holeand not damage the ring gear threads to remove the ring gear from the case. Move from side to side to remove the ring gear from the case, straight off. It is a very tight press fit. | ||
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