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The studs that came with the tapered axle brake kit are to small to work on a flanged axle rearend. Just a note for your information. My fault for changing rearends on you in mid stream. | As you can see, the original studs in the flanged axle are way to short to use with the rotor being so thick. | Here you can see that the supplied studs are clearly smaller in diameter that the original studs. Problem solved: If this ever comes up again the correct stud to fit the flanged axle and has the correct shoulder from the rotor thickness is: Car Quest Part Number #DOR-610-287 NAPA Part Number #641-1579 They both are a Dorman wheel stud Number 610-287. Theyhave 287on the head of the stud. Perfect fit and perfect length. | The other problem I found was thatwith the caliper mounted in the 3 0'clock position I couldn't get the lower caliper mounting bolt out without removing the caliper mount too. |
My springs are 2" thinck and the head of the caliper bolt was only about an 1" away from the spring. I wouldn't have been able to get anything in there to loosen the bolt, once mounted on the car. I understand, from our phone conversation why you are mouning it in the 3 o'clock position. Because of bleeder location. | Another view of caliper bolt location. | SOLUTION: I rotated the caliper up to the 2 0'clock position and found two of the four mounting bracket holes would line up with the bolts. I just had to redrill two holes and everything mounted up perfectly. | By rotating the caliper up two things happened. One - Everything clears and there is more than enough room to remove the caliper for pad replacement. Two - the bleeder screw on the caliper is no longer on the top of the piston bore. To over come this I bled the system first in this position. Then removed the caliper and held it so the bleeder was on top and bled each caliper one more time to ensure all the air was out of the system. This should be the only time I have to do this unless I remove the caliper from the hose for some reason. I feel pad replacement will happen more often. |
Here is a picture of the master cylinder and metering valve. As you can see the bracket you sent, mounting the metering valve underneath, works perfectly. The picture makes the master cylinder "look" like it is closer to the valve cover than it really is. There is more than enough room to get the valve cover off if need be. | The three lines from the metering valve go down to the original lines on the frame where the distribution block was mounted. I simply used flare unions to connect up to the original lines. I hadn't installed the two lines from the master cylinder to the metering valve in this picture yet. But they fit great upon final installation and tightening of all line. | Here are some pictures of the finished product and the fruits of your labor. Great looking brake setup. | And a view of the rear. I used disc brake and drum paint on the rotor and caliper with hopes that it will keep them looking nice longer. |
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