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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| Has anyone installed discs on the rear of a 56 Dodge or Plymouth?
I am not home in my shop and I do not have a lot to do today so I would do some more thinking about converting to discs. I do have AAJ on the front and have all new components on the rear except for drums. The drums are .030” over, obviously they have been turned at some time. I have not found anyone near me that has the equipment to fit shoes to drums so then I don’t have full contact. All that said, I do not like the braking action that I have with disc/drum the way they are.
Comments on your experience and success and pictures if you have.
Del |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: northern germany | There are plenty, or hundreds of disks on Ebay with various sizes and offsets with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern. You can pick about any fixed brake caliper that accepts the disks and fabricate a simple bracket. Not neccesarily welding required.
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Expert 5K+
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Location: northern germany | I did that with a Wilwood brake about 25 years ago. Works like a charm up to this day. There are pictures here, that you will find using the search function |
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Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: So. Cal | I recommend installing an 8 3/4 from a B-body into it first. Then drive it to see how you like it. You'll need to change the driveshaft and weld the spring mounts to it.
Edited by Powerflite 2023-11-25 11:45 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5152
| I did the ford 8.8 posi out of a v8 explorer... its 3.73 though...
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Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: So. Cal | That's the dumb thing about the Ford 8.8. You can't change the gear very easily or cheaply. I tell people that do those conversions that they had better like the gear ratios because you will have to do another swap if you don't. With the 9" Ford & 8 3/4, at least you have a myriad of options and can change your mind easily. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| Darn, I just notice I put this under the wrong heading. The above is all helpful but I am not changing the rear axle. It will remain O.E. I am unable to find a thread that is specific to a 56 Dodge with 11” drums, not Center Plane. Has anyone used AAJ for this conversion?
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Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: So. Cal | I didn't realize that AAJ made a disc conversion kit for the '56 Dodge 8 1/4 rear. Do you know what brake components it uses? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| All I know about AAJ’s rear conversion kit is, he uses GM metric caliber. |
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Posts: 3833
Location: NorCal | Powerflite - 2023-11-25 8:43 PM
I recommend installing an 8 3/4 from a B-body into it first.
^^^^^^^^
This. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | ...still curious as to the reason for not wanting to swap rear axle assembly ...... |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| I have a number of reasons for not swapping the rear axle out. A) my car is a lovely driver, not a hot rod. B) in today’s city driving I want good braking, better than the current rear drums. C) my next project is to swap out the Powerflite for a Torqueflite that is ready and waiting to go in. D) then I will install the Coaxial Power Steering. By the time I get this done I will be too old to drive and then my grandson gets it. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | I get it, sort of....does your PF still have the parking brake attached? When you change to a TF, unless you stay in the same vintage, you will then need to change the axle. Just seems easier to do that now before you give up driving. Best wishes. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
I am Del's friend and have been helping him with accumulating parts for a A-466 cast iron Torqueflite swap, based on my A-466 swap into my 56 Dodge.
To that end, Del has acquired a rebuilt A-466 unit with PN 1854 124 that has the emergency brake at the end of the tail piece. That trans used to live behind a 392 hemi.
Since the photo below, it has been rebuilt.
My experience (and suggestions):
Hints for installing a cast-iron A-466 Torqueflite in a 56 Dodge with existing Powerflite
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=73638&...
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 790
| FWIW I have a complete disc brake rearend from
a 75 imperial still in car. 4.5 pattern $350 located in northern
California |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| Thanks fellows. I appreciate your input on the subject. What I get from all of this is, no one has installed discs on the tapered rear axle in a 55 or 56. I’ll let you know how I make out once I get to completion. I only work on my car/s in the summer as my wife and I spend the winters in a warmer climate. Completion could be this summer or next???
FYI. You won’t see a thread from me on the tranny swap as 56D500boy has a very detailed description of every twist and turn along with skinned knuckles in his thread noted above. I may start a thread on the trials and tribulations of swapping out the manual steering for the coaxial (when I get to it). Thank again.
Del |
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New User
Posts: 3
| It has been about 10 years ago, but I did a rear disc conversion keeping my tapered rear axles. Not sure I remember everything, but I remember thinking it was actually pretty simple, after getting the rear drum separated off the hub. I do have access to a lathe, and it seems I did a little machining on the hubs to true them up, or to cut the drum off...can't remember for sure. I made the brackets out of 3/8" plate, as that is what I had laying around (still have some of it), and I remember it made for solid mounts for the thread engagement of the caliper pins. I did use calipers from a 76ish Nova, and a tandem master cylinder from a later model Chrysler product...the rotors for front and rear were all from a Chrysler product too. I used the same front rotors on all 4 wheels. I converted my front to disc using the factory hubs. No power booster as I was still running the Flat six with a T5 S10 transmission behind it (Adapter plate and reversed clutch disc came from someone on this site I think)
Don't get too caught up in using Metric calipers, especially from S10 or the Malibu, as they will require a quick take up master cylinder, or you will have excessive pedal travel on application...ask me how I know!
I have not been on this site in about 7 years as I sold my 55 Savoy, but I am about to pick up another... I hope, and that is what lead me to this thread.
Good Luck!
Edited by chopzuk 2025-01-16 12:31 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| Hi Chopzuk. The AAJ front disc kit uses GM Metric callipers that I have on my 56 American build Dodge, along with a Mopar tandem master cylinder. I have never heard of a “quick take up master cylinder “. What, where, etc.
Del |
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Expert
Posts: 3466
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Quick take up may refer to built in residual valves. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| If you have disc on front and drums on the rear, you would have a residual valve in the master for the rear only. Disc brakes don’t use a residual valve.
Del |
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Expert
Posts: 2215
Location: Muskego, WI | Del,
I did a front and rear disc conversion in my 1960 Plymouth station wagon. My rearend is an 8 3/4, but it was the original tapered axle unit and not a newer one. The thread below might be helpful to you. Still very happy with the brakes in that car.
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=68713&...
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| I did finish the conversion to all 4 corners with discs. I had a set o rear backing plates to cut apart and make the seal retainers. Next, pulling the rear drums, cutting the swedge that the factory used to retain the drum to the hub. I used a 5/8" hole saw that had a 1/2" I.D., (center drill removed) to cut through the swedge. That did not take much to do. Next was to set up and drill the stud holes in the hub to fit the Dorman 610-287 R/H studs and press them in. I had already replaced wheel bearings and checked the axles end clearance so assembly was not that big a chore, just a slow process. everything fit like it should. The Master Cylinder Is a Raybestos MC36283. With the Residual Valve removed.
Del
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Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: So. Cal | I had forgotten that the '56 Dodge/Plymouth uses wheel bolts, which is why you had to drill the hubs for the studs. Did you purchase the bracket or make it yourself? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| I had brackets made firstly however there was a slight miscalculation and to get that miscalculation redone was a long delivery. So I purchased AAJ.
My car is a Detroit build which is slightly different than the Canadian build. Canadian Dodges where Plodge as we called them. A mix of Plymouth with different trim and grill. I worked on the bench in a Dealership, many years ago, and if I remember correctly, both D & P had bolts, the hub had the alignment pin. The bigger cars, C & D had the studs.
Del |
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Expert
Posts: 3598
Location: Blythewood, SC | For those of you that don't know what a quick take up master cylinder is:
A quick take up master cylinder moves the fluid out faster than a standard master cylinder. I'm not sure if it uses a stepped bore or not, but it has a faster initial "shot" of fluid than a standard master cylinder. I put one on my 1980 Camaro to help with a brake issue I had with it, and it dramatically increased the initial application of brakes. I was told that these first made an appearance on the 4 wheel disc Pontiacs in the late 70's. If you use GM metric calibers, it is a good idea to consider a quick take up master cylinder. I used an S-10 application for my Camaro, but I'm not sure if it would fit a FL application. |
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Expert
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Location: Rogersville, Alabama | There are times I wished I mention to my dad I also wanted to convert to rear disc brakes also on my '61 . Hopefully in the future I can find a mechanic who has worked on these cars and get it done I also plan to put another rear end in the car so I will not need that special tool to get to the rearbrakes |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | 1961plymouthfury - 2025-02-06 7:17 AM
There are times I wished I mention to my dad I also wanted to convert to rear disc brakes also on my '61 . Hopefully in the future I can find a mechanic who has worked on these cars and get it done I also plan to put another rear end in the car so I will not need that special tool to get to the rearbrakes
Here you go: https://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402
| there are different types of knock off pullers available. Some on eBay, swap meets or borrow one from another Mopar Guy. Attached is a photo of the type we had at the dealership where I worked on the bench. There are actually 2 sizes of this style. the smaller is a better fit for the 4.5 BC. Studebaker guy will also have this style of puller. I copied this photo off the internet, I do use this style to remove the Hubs. (no more drums with the discs). Put the nut on the axle with the inner side flush with the end of the thread. this will save the end of the threads and keep the drum and puller from popping off and dropping on your feet when it comes loose. You tighten the lug nuts up tight on the puller legs, then wind the screw in up against the axle, the rap the T bar of the puller with a big hammer. You may also need to rap the end of the screw. if it doesn't come first try, leave the tension on and walk away for a couple of minutes, then smack the T bar again. The drum will come off. Good luck.
Del
Edited by dels56 2025-02-08 6:11 PM
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Rear Discs
