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dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | Last fall I started to replace the generator on my 56 Dodge C/R 315 Poly with a Mopar round back alternator. I fabricated the mount bracket, etc using an old alternator. I ran new wires and also mounted a new Std Motor Prod Volt Regulator #VR-101, then it was time to put the old girl to bed for the winter. Over the winter I collected a few parts for other projects along with a reman alternator from Rock Auto. This past weekend I installed the shiny new, to me, alternator. I connected my Volt Meter and checked the Battery Volts, 13.3 - 13.4 +/_, started the engine to see what I had with the new set-up, Meter reading 16.9. Seems a bit high. I ran the car for a couple of short runs and checked the Alternator, it seemed a bit warm and was still charging above 16 Volt. We then set out on a journey and all of a sudden there was smoke coming from under the hood. Panic stop and checked to find my shiny new alternator smoking and hotter than he77. I didn't have tools along to take the belt off so chanced the trip back to my garage. Today I dug out another Alternator, a square back single field and bolted it on. Bat volts 13.3-13.4, charge volts 17.5 +. It didn't take long for the alternator to start warming up so I shut down and into the inventory and replaced the Volt Regulator with a new SMP VR-101T. Great product, B/S. Bat Volts 13.2, Charge Volts 0.0. Back out comes the VR-101 and charge volts are again 16.9 +. Then I dug through inventory and found a regulator off my 74 Valiant parts car and made up wires to plug in and try it. Nothing, I guess it is toast. After all that now here is the question...Has anyone had good experience with the SMP VR-101 or 101T regulators? I liked the looks of the VR-101 as they look like they belong. I will purchase a new Mopar style electronic regulator the same as the one from my parts car and give that a try. Comments Please. Del | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10033 Location: So. Cal | The VR101 is a good regulator. I use it on my '67 Barracuda. Keep in mind that these only work with the earlier single field alternators, not the square back dual field alternators. The dual field alternators require the later '70-up regulator like in this picture. (dcc-4529794_xl.jpg) Attachments ---------------- dcc-4529794_xl.jpg (33KB - 123 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10291 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Del: Just checked if I had commented about the VR 101T and found this in your initial Alternator Conversion thread (looks like the VR 101Ts like a little cooling air): 56D500boy - 2022-10-17 11:25 AM . Not sure if this applies to the VR 101T alternator regulators or not but Bob Jennings (of Superbird fame), suggested in a video that I just watched that it is best to mount those small(ish) separate alternator regulators on a bracket to give them some space between the regulator and the firewall so they don't over heat. The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4_Z6lSzfA0 Two screen captures regarding the voltage regulator: REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=77725&... Edited by 56D500boy 2023-05-01 3:42 AM | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | Oddly enough, the VR-101 or VR-101T that I had installed, neither one was extra hot not like the alternator. To mount the VR’s I made an adapter plate to match the OE regulator mount and bolted the VR to that. The adapter plate is spaced away from the firewall with rubber insulator washers. I am off to NAPA this morning to see if they have an OE style Mopar regulator. Or maybe I will stop at the dodge dealer and see if they still stock these old reg’s. Wish me luck. Del | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3815 Location: NorCal | Powerflite - 2023-04-30 9:14 PM The VR101 is a good regulator. I use it on my '67 Barracuda. Keep in mind that these only work with the earlier single field alternators, not the square back dual field alternators. It will work, all you have to do is ground one of the field terminals just like the factory did with the single-field. | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | The 1st alt i installed was a single field as is the one now installed. Wiring is simple, battery wire 8 ga direct to alt with a fuseable link Field wire and ignition wire to the respective terminal on tbe VR-101. I just purchased a new mopar style electronic volt regulator. I will get to installing it next week. Del Edited by dels56 2023-05-01 2:09 PM | ||
PlumKrz |
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Member Posts: 8 Location: Blair, NE | I would also take the alternator to your local parts store and have it tested. Even though it is remanufactured doesn't mean they did it right. The last couple of alternators I got did not pass the test right out of the box. I was having overcharging issues as well. | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | Overcharging! $%%^& As I mentioned previously, An Alternator that I installed didn't last very long. Today I played with it until I became frustrated and walked away to think. I did not put my new Mopar Performance Regulator # P-3690731 (nice Blue) on but continued with the Standard Motor Products VR-101. I checked every wire and terminal for resistance and then the voltage at the V/R and Horn Relay. All points checked at 12.95 V. (The alternator I have on the car now is off my 1971 Scamp 318 which is in excellent condition). After starting the car at IDLE the CHARGE voltage was 14.3. Increased the engine to 2000 RPM the Voltage climbed to 18.75. It is raining today so the car had to run in the garage for a couple of hours. I don't have a Temperature Gun (yet) so I don't know ecxactly what the Alternator temp got up to but it was warm. Attached is my wiring diagram. What the &*$% is going on? Del S Edited by dels56 2023-05-06 11:50 PM (Alt Wiring May 6-23 (2).jpg) Attachments ---------------- Alt Wiring May 6-23 (2).jpg (149KB - 153 downloads) | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3815 Location: NorCal | Did you measure the voltage at the green field wire? The voltage at this wire should be below the battery voltage as the regulator adjusts the voltage there according to need. If the regulator is sending battery voltage (12.95) to the alternator field, the alternator will be in the "full field" configuration which will cause the alternator to put out its maximum... in your case, 18.75 volts. Also, be aware that a high-amp load or short circuit anywhere in the system can cause the charging system to go to full output | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | I did not check the Voltage at the Field Terminal. What do you think the voltage would be? Like .5 Volt or there about? I would think either way it is the SMP VR-101 Regulator that is at fault. I will fab an adapter plate to mount the Mopar Electronic Regulator that I bought and give that a try. This should not be difficult as it is exactly the same wiring as on the Scamp. Thanks for your help. Del S | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3815 Location: NorCal | Can't say what the actual reading will be at the field but I would think it's much more than .5 volt...the regulator regulates by controlling the voltage to the field. If you're reading close to battery voltage at the field it explains the high output. | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | I got tired of %^&* messing with the single field alternator and SMP VR-101 Regulator that seemed not to be compatible. I decided to change direction and ripped the Alt and VR101 off and replaced the Single Field Alt with a Dual Field off my 1974 Valiant parts car. To mount the Mopar Electronic Regulator I made an adapter out of 1/4" aluminum to mount with the same bolt pattern as the O.E. regulator. This bolted to the firewall and the Mopar Regulator bolts to the Adapter. Volt meter reading 13.75 Battery Volts and started the engine, Yahoo! 14.14 Volt Charge rate. All done, no more messing around. Del (Alt Reg wiring.jpg) (Reg n Adapter.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Alt Reg wiring.jpg (139KB - 142 downloads) Reg n Adapter.jpg (150KB - 131 downloads) | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3815 Location: NorCal | You show the voltmeter wired directly to the battery, this will eventually drain the battery. It should be hooked to the IGN terminal. | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | The volt meter is not even installed as yet. I screwed up adding it to this thread. Del | ||
56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10291 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Del: I am happy for you that you finally got something figured. Great job with your posts. Your diagrams, etc. are great. Two questions from one of my related alternator conversion threads: a) did you keep the Ammeter in the system? b) if so, what kind of readings (relative scale) are you seeing with the 60 Amp alternator? On the downside for me, I have fewer reasons to not make this conversion on my 56 Dodge. | ||
samstrader |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 460 Location: Beaumont TX | This is a really great instructional document you've made Del! The pictures are great! Thanks | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | I can do a better picture of the adapter plate with dimensions if anyone might need to do the same. Del | ||
Landyacht67 |
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Member Posts: 41 Location: Langley BC Canada | Dels56, Just want to say this site never disappoints. I will be tackling the hodge-podge wiring the previous did on my car in the upcoming weeks and your diagram just answered most of the questions I came here to ask. Awesome! -Julian | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1231 Location: SWITZERLAND | Del: What a nice presentation, the concept, the description, the pictures . . . . . My compliments! - SERGE - | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 367 | The combo alternator / electronic volt regulator has performed well over the summer. Maintaining the battery between short and long trips. 56D500boy was with me a couple of weeks back and commented on the voltage reading of 14.3. The alternator runs cool and the battery stays cool. Del | ||
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