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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | I thought I had retired from this kind of crazy stuff....here we go again..it needs everything. I haven`decided yet what I will build...probably not original driveline and absolutely not a lot of money to be used on interior and chrome etcetera... Would be interesting to try to go as cheap as possible. But these are just my first thoughts... Edited by 22mafeja 2021-11-10 10:21 AM (IMG_20211108_090701_resized_20211108_063239244 fwl.jpg) (IMG_20211108_090556_resized_20211108_063240529 fwl.jpg) (IMG_20211107_170040_resized_20211108_063241394 fwl.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Now one item on this car is cleaned...this must have stood for decades. Edited by 22mafeja 2021-11-14 1:00 AM (IMG_20211111_093739_resized_20211111_093817691 fwl.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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imp610![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 129 ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Nice project you are getting into, can`t wait to see how it turns out! What drivetrain is there in it now? | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | I bought it without driveline so everything is wide open..probably will it be LA 318 or 360 with auto trans. All black exterior and interior....maybe.... | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Now the bodywork has begun. Although it isn`t that badly rusted I am still going to replace both quarter panels up to the fin joint. The door skin is going to be replaced up to the handles. I am going to try to save the front fenders with one large patch behind the wheel- The reason for me to change so much is that the surface sheet metal is badly dented, dinged, banged etc. I am fabricating these parts myself Of course are all floors and rocker panels going to be fabricated also. I am going to make it very stiff and strong using minimum 1,2mm sheet metal. I am definitely going to simplify some things since this is not going to be a number 1 or 2 original gem. The engine is a 318 LA and 904 tf. The rear wheel arches are imo the most difficult parts on the bodywork. They got finished today. Took almost 10 hours per side to make. The lip is made of 15x15x1,5 mm to get some stiffness to it. Edited by 22mafeja 2022-01-24 8:00 AM (IMG_20220124_083720_resized_20220124_022918696.jpg) (IMG_20220124_131122_resized_20220124_022918205.jpg) (IMG_20220124_131114_resized_20220124_022918455.jpg) (IMG_20220124_131141_resized_20220124_022917942.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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61kustom![]() |
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Regular Posts: 62 ![]() ![]() Location: arizona | Awesome project. Those patches look really nice, do you have anymore exterior shots? ???? | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | That's an amazing job making those wheel arches. If you were closer to me, I would like to come learn how you did it. | ||
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LD3 Greg![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1922 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Ontario, Canada | Nice job! Now to get the inners to fit and blend in! | ||
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ToMopar![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1126 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: D-70199 Heslach | 22mafeja - 2022-01-24 12:54 PM The rear wheel arches are imo the most difficult parts on the bodywork. They got finished today. Took almost 10 hours per side to make. The lip is made of 15x15x1,5 mm to get some stiffness to it. 10 hours.....mine looks after a week worse than yours | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | This is so much fun...my big finger is slowing me down some now...the angle grinder took a chunk of it.. I decided to make the whole right side at the same time. The quarter is not finished but so far I am pleased with. The floor supports on this side are usable. Edited by 22mafeja 2022-02-02 9:19 AM (IMG_20220201_142813_resized_20220202_034634660.jpg) (IMG_20220201_142819_resized_20220202_034634418.jpg) (IMG_20220201_142855_resized_20220202_034634154.jpg) (IMG_20220202_092523_resized_20220202_034633899.jpg) (IMG_20220202_092533_resized_20220202_034633652.jpg) (IMG_20220202_153403_resized_20220202_034633406.jpg) (IMG_20220202_153423_resized_20220202_034633122.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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58coupe![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1725 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Alaska | OOPS! I am sure most of us could share stories of our mishaps. | ||
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60 Imp![]() |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: North Australia | OOF! I been dealing with a catfish spike from fishing 10 days ago...... I vote get a 354 and 3 speed and make a clone of one of these. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1957-dodge-coronet-d-501 Steve. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Floors have got some attention.... (IMG_20220207_150355_resized_20220207_031820991.jpg) (IMG_20220207_150411_resized_20220207_031820669.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | That's really smart to weld them together before going into the car, so you can clean up all the welds first. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Yes it is much nicer to weld and grind standing at the workbench compared to the monkey work on your back on the floor... I would have made these two floor patches out of one piece but the limitations of my bead roller is dictating how big patches I can make. The floors are not going to be 100% original as somebody might have noticed..but rather similar. | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I usually plug weld the large braces to the sheet metal instead of spot welding. The reason is that I like to epoxy primer both sides before welding in place. Then mark the locations where the holes are and remove the primer in those spots. Then plug weld together. This way, most of the panels are protected between the joint. I don't know how much better it will survive this way, but it seems like it would help. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | That is the proper way to do things. Actually I always plug weld since I have no spot welder. If both plates are bare and new I just weld them together without primer. I f there is rust on one or both sides I brush crc rust stop on and hope for the best. First I brush away the majority of the rust. | ||
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imp610![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 129 ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Lookin good! Nice work. | ||
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AceS![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 274 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: WA/USA | Curious - What did you make your body mount cups out of for the floor pan? I just wrapped up floors, trunk pan, quarters, and rockers on my 57 Club Coupe. Still have to do the bottoms of the doors, but I'm getting close to being done with rust. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | I happened to have the cups on the shelf. The were pressed in molds many years ago and the molds are long gone , these were the last ones. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | One side done , one to go! It is going faster now since I have all parts done allready. (IMG_20220216_155723_resized_20220216_041031756.jpg) (IMG_20220216_155734_resized_20220216_041031526.jpg) (IMG_20220216_155759_resized_20220216_041031274.jpg) (IMG_20220216_155809_resized_20220216_041031024.jpg) (IMG_20220216_155831_resized_20220216_041030783.jpg) (IMG_20220216_155919_resized_20220216_041030522.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | Looks good! | ||
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mikes2nd![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4955 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | f man, shoulda got some donor quarters.. Oh your in F'ing finland... | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | In Finland you can forget about usable donor quarters. If I would find one in us then the shipping plus 30% fees for customs and taxes would make it too pricy for my wallet. Since I am retired since six years I have the time and will to fabricate new parts. For me it is more important to not have soft spots anywhere on the car than that every inch of the car is as it came from the production line. When you fabricate from sheet metal you can start as soon as the project arrives , I couldn`t wait for months or years for parts like some fellows. | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12980 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | In short, that´s Finnish Sisu, wounded, bleeding and still making good work! Keep it up and keep us posted, soon the spring is here…… | ||
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AceS![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 274 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: WA/USA | You work fast for being "retired". I got a 1 year head start on you and I think you'll be caught up to me in less than half the time. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Fast as a snail...I do 3-4 hours every day (almost) so there is some small progress going on all the time. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Some progress.. (IMG_20220323_120849_resized_20220323_123106039.jpg) (IMG_20220323_120910_resized_20220323_123105764.jpg) (IMG_20220323_120921_BURST001_COVER_resized_20220323_123105524.jpg) (IMG_20220323_120932_resized_20220323_123105042.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121001_resized_20220323_123104505.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121011_resized_20220323_123104254.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121022_resized_20220323_123103988.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121030_resized_20220323_123103734.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121046_resized_20220323_123103472.jpg) (IMG_20220323_121126_resized_20220323_123103189.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | The bodywork is about done now except for the doors and front fenders. About 220 hours on this car so far.. (IMG_20220328_155647_resized_20220328_102031283.jpg) (IMG_20220328_155627_resized_20220328_102031007.jpg) (IMG_20220328_155701_resized_20220328_102030747.jpg) (IMG_20220328_155720_resized_20220328_102030477.jpg) (IMG_20220328_155731_resized_20220328_102030143.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12980 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Great Ralf, keep up the good work and keep us posted | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Now it`s up in the rotisserie...only the fun work left.... Here you can observe how the underside is painted from the factory. The red is overspray on the grey/blue ish components paint. (IMG_20220330_162902_resized_20220330_104159079.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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ToMopar![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1126 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: D-70199 Heslach | It looks as it could be ready this season | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Nah...when the summer season begins I spend a lot of time at my sea cottage so I need probably a full year from now to get it finished. These days I wait for the sandblasting guy to arrive, we have about -10 degrees celsius at nights so the blasting works well at the mornings. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | I am still waiting for the blasted sand blasting man...had to move on to the frame. I have done a thing or three.. Engine 318LA +tf 904 got new engine mount frame brackets The propellershaft got done from two shafts I had. The original was about one foot short. The pushbutton unit is replaced with a Dodge 1956 Overdrive actuator. I went looking for something usable on my shelves and noticed that this was giving a decent stroke. I had to accept that I can`t use the 1 position. The exhaust system is ready...I am going to try to have the tips out in front of the rear wheels (IMG_20220420_110454_resized_20220421_110753073.jpg) (IMG_20220420_110510_1_resized_20220421_110752815.jpg) (IMG_20220421_160343_resized_20220421_110752564.jpg) (IMG_20220421_160450_resized_20220421_110752017.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Pushbutton delete...and ashtray delete.. (IMG_20220422_171623_resized_20220423_093920675.jpg) (IMG_20220423_074423_resized_20220423_093920419.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() | ||
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Darryl T![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 416 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: McCleary WA | AceS - 2022-02-09 9:41 AM Curious - What did you make your body mount cups out of for the floor pan? I used replacement floor pans in my wagon, and the body mount cups were only half as deep as they should be. I picked up this dimple die and easily made them deeper. I can loan it to anyone needing it. (floor cup die.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | My best friend the great sand blasting guy visited me and this was the result. (IMG_20220424_173419_resized_20220424_082917117.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | The body is epoxy painted and top coated with Mipa Protector structure paint (Raptor like) inside and under. I must say I liked it A LOT... It is so durable... and easy to spray on. The fame is getting shaved today and soon I have to call the blasting man again.. The rear end is a 1634983 with 3,18 ratio, Green paint on the snout of the carrier. The pinion seal is id 1,875 and od 3,09 (3,105?) with 0,57" width at od and 0,79" at id. I have read so much about 741 and 741 and "the older" 1634983 which is neither. I have understood that pinion size should be 1 3/8 for 741 and 1 3/4 for 742. The 489 has 1,875" pinion like this one but I think it came not until 1969? Interesting...isn`t there anybody out there who knows? (IMG_20220504_092010_resized_20220504_093453122.jpg) (IMG_20220504_092029_resized_20220504_093452873.jpg) (IMG_20220504_092040_resized_20220504_093452591.jpg) (IMG_20220504_092044_resized_20220504_093452301.jpg) (IMG_20220504_092053_resized_20220504_093452021.jpg) (IMG_20220504_092159_resized_20220504_093451712.jpg) (IMG_20220504_104104_resized_20220504_025947008.jpg) (IMG_20220504_104115_resized_20220504_025946758.jpg) (IMG_20220504_104121_resized_20220504_025946512.jpg) (IMG_20220504_104127_resized_20220504_025946253.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Five leafs... (IMG_20220505_090327_resized_20220505_095050064.jpg) (IMG_20220505_090324_resized_20220505_095049763.jpg) (IMG_20220505_090308_resized_20220505_095049161.jpg) (IMG_20220505_090253_resized_20220505_095048898.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12980 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Nice work, I like your creativity - keep it up! | ||
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frwl![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1741 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | . Could you post the cowl tag picture? | ||
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57burb![]() |
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Expert Posts: 3962 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: DFW, TX | Awesome work! So nice to see a complete restoration. I really like your shifter, very creative! | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Cowl plate.. (frwl dodge coronet data plate x.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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frwl![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1741 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | . Wow! This is LA-built car! Thanks a bunch, Ralf! M2 = 4 = 334 = Appearance Accessory Group: Rear Quarter Stone Shields, Deluxe Steering Wheel, Standard Wheel Covers M5 = 1 = 401 = Undercoating SO = 0604 = Scheduled on June 4, 1957 NO = 5031 = 31th car built that day MODEL = D661 = 1957 Dodge Coronet V8 BT = 2142 = Dodge (2), V8 325CID 2BBL 245HP Engine (1), Coronet V8 (4), 2 Door Sedan (2) PT = LKL = Paint Scheme – Deluxe Two Tones: Glacier White – Roof Color Sunshine Yellow – Upper Body Color Glacier White – Lower Body Color Glacier White – Fins Color TR = 210 = Gold Pellon Vinyl and Black Star Dot Fabric – that’s a Coronet Custom Trim, (Standard would be coded as 110) Does the car have factory power steering or power brakes? ![]() | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | No power equipment. The wheel covers are the full wheel sized...I don`t know if that means deluxe and the povery caps are the standard ones... Edited by 22mafeja 2022-05-08 2:58 AM | ||
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58coupe![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1725 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Alaska | You asked about the different sized differentials. I will do my best to answer hopefully without too many mistakes. The 741 used a 1 3/8"" pinion, the 742 used a 1 3/4" pinion and the 489 used a 1 7/8" tapered pinion. These are progressively stronger. Chrysler first used the 8 3/4" diff in 57 AKA 741 with a different casting number. In 58, the first year for limited slip it was the 742 but also with a different casting number. Both of these were used into the early 70s. The 489 was first used in the late 60s in the higher performance cars. All of these are interchangeable but you have make sure the axle length is correct. | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | In terms of axle length, only the sure grip differentials from the forwardlook years are interchangeable with the later years. Early open gears have a 1/4" shorter thrust pin in them for use with the longer axles, so they aren't strictly interchangeable. However, these early gears swap well into later axles that have green bearings in them. Green bearings tend to place the axles too far inward, requiring you to remove the thrust pin. But using the early gears, that's not an issue because of how short the thrust pin is. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 583 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Yes so i believed too. But how can this axle have 1 7/8" pinion? That is the question...The 1634983 isn`t rare, I have had at least two cars with it. | ||
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57chizler![]() |
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Expert Posts: 3746 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: NorCal | The large stem (1 3/4") casting number is usually 1634985, the last digit in the pics above look like the mold was faulty ?? The small stem (1 5/8") is 1820657; both were discontinued around 1964 in favor of the 2070742 and 2070741. The 1 7/8" pinion was introduced in '68 with casting number 2881489. | ||
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frwl![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1741 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | 22mafeja - 2022-05-08 2:53 AM No power equipment. The wheel covers are the full wheel sized...I don`t know if that means deluxe and the povery caps are the standard ones... Ralf: First two pictures shows trim code 110; the second ones are the trim code 210 (Custom Trim); Last picture helps to identify the wheel covers: left – standard, right – deluxe (spinners)… (Trim 110 (1).JPG) (Trim 110 (2).JPG) (Trim 210 (1).JPG) (Trim 210 (2).JPG) (Wheel Covers.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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