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new HD strut rod bushings and alignment question
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Ev's62Chrysler
Posted 2017-11-30 1:15 PM (#553439)
Subject: new HD strut rod bushings and alignment question



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Location: Suwanee, GA
I bought new Moog "heavy duty" strut rod bushings for my 62 New Yorker. Being thicker than the original (at least what's in place now) I won't be able to get as much positive caster, which was marginal at best. I have yet to install these. Any thoughts from those of you who have? I've also replaced all control arm bushings and ball joints, which may or may not help with caster. Lower control arm bushing and ball joints were shot.

Thanks,
Robert
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Shep
Posted 2017-11-30 1:44 PM (#553440 - in reply to #553439)
Subject: Re: new HD strut rod bushings and alignment question



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The caster is set at the upper arms, pulling the strut rod forward is not the way to do this as it can bind the lower arm some. With the car level I have been able to get about 1.5 caster, and maintain the correct camber range.
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57chizler
Posted 2017-11-30 1:58 PM (#553441 - in reply to #553439)
Subject: RE: new HD strut rod bushings and alignment question



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Ev's62Chrysler - 2017-11-30 10:15 AM

I bought new Moog "heavy duty" strut rod bushings for my 62 New Yorker. Being thicker than the original (at least what's in place now)


The HD bushings aren't any thicker once installed. You tighten the nut against a shoulder on the strut rod, so the bushings compress to the same thickness as originals.
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Ev's62Chrysler
Posted 2017-11-30 5:01 PM (#553451 - in reply to #553441)
Subject: RE: new HD strut rod bushings and alignment question



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Posts: 133
10025
Location: Suwanee, GA
57chizler - 2017-11-30 1:58 PM

Ev's62Chrysler - 2017-11-30 10:15 AM

I bought new Moog "heavy duty" strut rod bushings for my 62 New Yorker. Being thicker than the original (at least what's in place now)


The HD bushings aren't any thicker once installed. You tighten the nut against a shoulder on the strut rod, so the bushings compress to the same thickness as originals.



Good to know - wasn't sure how much they'd compress.

Shep - I realize the adjustment is at the upper bushings. I was just concerned thicker bushings would set the lower arm a bit more rearward thus reducing my little bit of positive caster I have. I think I only ended up with ~1.5 deg when I aligned it last year.


Just FYI - I spent quite a bit of time with solvent and wire brush cleaning the torsion bar adjusting bolt threads before attempting to back them out. No corrosion on the bolts. No breaker bar required to break free. Then as Sid/others recommended, loosen a bit, tighten, clean threads, repeat. Driver's side was a piece of cake. Haven't done passenger's side yet. Then the torsion bar pulled out of the lower control arm with only a bit of wiggling. No need to buy/make a clamping tool to slide the bar rearward through the anchor to then remove the arm. Thinking this job would be a bigger pain I almost caved and took the car to a nearby shop to replace the lower bushings and ball joints. Having a press and selection of pipes/round tubing at work certainly makes it convenient to do yourself. Glad I did.

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