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57 Royal with 392 project Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... > Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Got this from Missouri, no one was buying it because it had front windshield, passenger and rear windows smashed out. I just happened to have all three of those sitting at home so i bought it. Engine was froze up as the plugs were out of this and it sat forever. Complete car though and not too horrible. Floors are intact except some holes. I got a 392 hemi out of a 57 chrysler along with the power steering and brakes. Got the fenders done, hood and trunklid ready to go in primer. The hemi needs the heads done but the bottom is all wrapped up. I will paint and restore the whole front clip now that the engine is gone and out. I have many nos parts for this car.
(57-1.jpg) (controlarm.jpg) (engine.jpg) (57Fender1.jpg) (57Fender2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57-1.jpg (224KB - 912 downloads) controlarm.jpg (219KB - 875 downloads) engine.jpg (242KB - 913 downloads) 57Fender1.jpg (235KB - 922 downloads) 57Fender2.jpg (240KB - 838 downloads) | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6571 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Great Project! Keep up the good work! Marc. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | more pics, dash is kinda ragged but I have all new gauges and speedo\wheel... got torsion bar bolts off also final disassembly of the front suspension... Obviously I have some floor work to do and inner/outer rockers.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-02 6:05 PM (torsion.jpg) (passside1.jpg) (floor1.jpg) (dash1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- torsion.jpg (236KB - 841 downloads) passside1.jpg (246KB - 835 downloads) floor1.jpg (249KB - 914 downloads) dash1.jpg (243KB - 848 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | Looks like you are a little faster than me in rebuilding your motor. Mine has stalled for what seems like ages. Your car almost looks like an exact replica of mine, one year earlier. Is that a green interior color or more of an aqua? Looks like you did a great job on that patch. It's pretty nice to get that crispy section outta there. Now you just need to do the cleanup work on it. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Aqua interior, the fenders are all cleaned up and in primer, hood and trunk is in primer also. These trunks suck... so much rust hidden down in the corners. I touched it with the welder and it kept going forever... Eventually I got it solid. filled the trunk with Por15 and under the hood. Today, polished antennas, took off lower control arm nuts, took off front lower control arm stabilizer bar nuts and bars, shocks off also. Ive been spraying the torsion arms. This car comes apart underneath because it had a front crank oil leak, the engine had constant oil spray so it was a nightmare to clean but once the gunk is off its a dream.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-03 6:24 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | blasting front suspension parts, now to finish painting. I am working on my torsion bar puller also. (parts.jpg) Attachments ---------------- parts.jpg (170KB - 824 downloads) | ||
mogge65 |
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Expert Posts: 1295 Location: Nasco , SWEDEN | Great Project, can´t wait to see that big ol´Hemi in that car, A super Duper D500-2 ha ha ha.... Good luck and keep posting | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | one set of rockers cleaned and ready to go. Put on Stanke collars and shafts. Shafts 240$ and collars 131$ shipped got lifters also. 110$ Working on valley cover and intake manifold. I am trying to lose weight on this engine. The intake manifold alone is a ton(if I lose starter, alternator and intake manifold weight I should be good). I was worried about the torsion bars but I have been doing some research and I should be fine. I think our torsion bars are overkill on the size. They only broke from production issue/damage typically. I think chrysler said make them so they would last and they did.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-14 10:55 PM (rocker.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rocker.jpg (186KB - 867 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | I agree, there isn't any real danger of your t-bars breaking with the extra weight, but your car just won't handle very well because it will be under-sprung. Supposedly, the 325 poly is around 610 lbs and the D500 at 645 lbs, with the 392 at 740lbs. So you would need to lose 130 lbs to break even with the poly motor. The aluminum intake will get you 35 lbs and the starter and alternator will get you probably 10-15lbs each (I didn't measure it). So you won't be able to get down to the poly weight unless you get a set of aluminum heads; but you will definitely feel the benefit of losing the 60-70 or so lbs you have planned. Especially the intake & alternator because of how high they sit on the car. If you take the time to put a good sway bar under it, the extra weight won't have as bad of an effect on the car. When I put a 331 hemi into my '56 Savoy, the handling was noticeably worse, but after swapping to a larger Chrysler sway bar, it made it a lot more manageable. But my '58 Dodge doesn't have any sway bar in it at all. Your exhaust rockers look too short, but it is probably just the angle they are in. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | I think I can save a little more with the headers and exhaust system. I might be using the Holley EFI carb also. I don't really think I can lose any more weight easily? any other ideas. Light weight fan? I do have a big block aluminum water pump that's probably 5 lbs off. That alternator is very heavy... I will be running 4 wheel discs but that is unsprung weight. Adding the sway bar will up the weight. I will weigh my starter and alternator.
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-15 6:41 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | Swapping to an aluminum 727 will shed weight as well, if you are planning on that. But I don't think they changed the bars when going to the D500, so you really only need to lose a total of 100 lbs to be close to stock D500 configuration. I'm not sure what savings the trans will give you, but I imagine it should easily get you another 40lbs. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | so I have an aluminum 727 in the 57 dodge now? Should I use it with the hemi and not the one that came with the hemi out of Yorker wagon? | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | The car should have come with a cast iron 3 speed Torqueflite or cast iron 2 speed Powerflite. The bell housing is aluminum, but the rest of the trans is cast iron. If you install a push-button 727 aluminum trans from '62-'65, then you will shed some weight in doing so. But you would need to use an adapter from HotHeads because the crank position is different starting in '62. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | okay that ain't happening Cleaned up a head after I got done polishing antenna's... tried lapping one valve Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-16 12:09 AM (headcleanup.jpg) Attachments ---------------- headcleanup.jpg (192KB - 849 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | one head done... uhg, I need to get these back on the engine and button it up... got the intake and the valley cover, pushrods... (heads.jpg) Attachments ---------------- heads.jpg (243KB - 840 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | Installing spark plug seals is a good investment. Otherwise, every time you remove a plug to check how the motor is running or whatever, it is covered in oil. Also when the motor first starts, it burns a lot of the oil that drained into there. Just saves some headache, but does make it more difficult to remove the tubes if you need to. How much clearance did you put between those collars and the rocker arms? Edited by Powerflite 2017-05-18 10:35 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | I saw these but man... what a pain http://www.hothemiheads.com/cylinder_heads/spark_plug_seals_aluminu... I was going to email stanke but I think as long as they move freely and there is no play I should be good. the oil seeping out the end will keep the ends well oiled so I don't have to worry about galling or anything. I haven't locked them down yet. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Got the scarebird brackets in today. Next up order rotors and calipers (Scarebirds.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Scarebirds.jpg (222KB - 827 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | ack got the stoptech rotors ordered. Looks like my drivers side torsion might be rusted. going to try the 2000 dodge 1500 dual piston calipers to see if they fit at o'reilys today | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3082 Location: N.W. Fla. | Powerflite - 2017-05-15 9:11 PM Crank & bell pattern changes. I like the adaptor that Quality Engineered Components ("Wayfarer" here on the Board) sells. It's a horse shoe style, HH & Wil-Cap are full circle style & have to be done before putting on the engine oil pan.If you install a push-button 727 aluminum trans from '62-'65, then you will shed some weight in doing so. But you would need to use an adapter from HotHeads because the crank position is different starting in '62. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | yeah that 40 lbs is desirable but not worth it I think, that's a lot of work and cash(just trying to find the part). My torsion bar is good, the 2000 dual piston calipers are a no go and I painted all my suspension parts. I am going to have to have the lower control arm bushings pressed out, its impossible to force the issue. Next up frame cleaning and prep for por-15/silverbullet. I like silver bullet a lot better lately. it dries faster so it doesn't run forever. Por15 had bad coverage and ran forever. A day later and my jar is still runny, I had some runs I didn't like and had to put two coats just to get full coverage. Silver bullet was better. I think I'm going with it from now on. | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | What didn't work about the dual piston calipers? I was hoping to use those in the future too. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Dodge moved to a different caliper "mid 99" larger bolt, bigger distance between bolts, not happening at all. I thought that was a long shot. If you want dual piston I would go with aaj. Depending upon rim size I can use the 1500, 2500 or 3500HD 94-99 dodge trucks. That 3500 Caliper could stop a train but its still single piston. At that point only abs would help. I will be doing a performance test on my car when I'm done to see how fast I can stop without locking them up. There is still the option of the GM Calipers but I doubt that will be any different. I bought some "58" torsion bar rubber covers so they will no longer rust I got my hot heads hemi 4 barrell intake manifold, i think im going with the Holley sniper EFI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mIhs4xahBY
Edited by mikes2nd 2017-05-21 9:25 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | got rotors! (Rotors.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Rotors.jpg (164KB - 892 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | got the lower control arm bushings locked in. Now need to paint those and I start painting the front frame and can now start putting it back together. I did not need a press, I had a perfect tube to push it in. I will start yanking out the manual steering and get the power steering in. I will take a serious wire wheel to the frame and rust bullet it. (rust.jpg) (SecondTry-15.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rust.jpg (29KB - 817 downloads) SecondTry-15.jpg (136KB - 823 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | okay two coats of rust bullet on the lower control arms. I'm looking for a new torsion bar. tomorrow I start cleaning the frame in prep for painting on putting it back together. I need to get the trans out. I also picked up some aluminum "pro-forged" tie rod adjusting sleeves instead of the moogs. 59$ from summit but nice and wont hold water, rust, stronger etc. picked up Timken bearings for the hubs also at summit racing. (billet2.jpg) (billet.jpg) (lowercontrol.jpg) Attachments ---------------- billet2.jpg (234KB - 862 downloads) billet.jpg (165KB - 864 downloads) lowercontrol.jpg (209KB - 851 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | I'm attempting to catch up with Jessica. Painted torsions, torsion bolts, lower control arm bumper brackets I believe everything is done and ready to go. Ill drop the trans, and clean up the hemi trans. Bust out the grinder and go nuts on the front. I am off to the sandblaster tomorrow. (painted.jpg) Attachments ---------------- painted.jpg (230KB - 829 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | Good luck, Jessica is hard to keep up with! The first thing I do with those grinders is to remove the guard. They really get in the way when you are using a wire wheel, and they cause a lot of drag on it. Too bad really, because they could potentially keep those little wires from flying off into your pants otherwise, if they were just a little bit bigger in size. But I have found they cause more problems than they solve. | ||
wayfarer |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 906 Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | What is the story on the rocker arms shafts? The dark color seems a bit odd. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | those are the Stanke rocker arm shafts, I didn't want to fight cleaning mine. 240$ a set on ebay. NEW 331/354/392/Donovan Rocker Shafts TOTALLY NEW Early Hemi Rocker Shafts. These Shafts are made from Hardened Steel, Ground to Exact Spec, and Hardened by a "Melonite Nitride QPQ" Treatment. These Hemi Shafts offer a NEW improved oiling system. Shafts are designed for ALL EARLY HEMI/417 Donovan applications, including Nostalgia Top Fuel. http://www.stankemotorsports.com/engine/index.htm | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | door is off... gonna have to replace rockers and some of the outer floor pans, braces are under there and will need some cleanup. stopped at sandblaster today. will get the trans and brace out tomorrow and polish more antennas.. (dooroff.jpg) Attachments ---------------- dooroff.jpg (240KB - 814 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Hemi trans drained, looks great inside, oil looks new. Cleaned other head of grease and grime, ready to start building it. (oilpanoff.jpg) Attachments ---------------- oilpanoff.jpg (230KB - 821 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | parking brake was a pita to get off... cleaned up the pan but I need to sandblast it. Started rough scraping on the trans. I need to get the pan on it before I can really start cleaning up the trans. I hope to paint it tomorrow. (transbrakeoff.jpg) Attachments ---------------- transbrakeoff.jpg (497KB - 889 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | this is a nightmare... uhg (transround1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- transround1.jpg (254KB - 842 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | day two.. hotter than hell and I'm on a time crunch... (TransmissionDay2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- TransmissionDay2.jpg (212KB - 817 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | unhooked shifter cable... people say "pop the spring off"... not... it was froze up good, I got it off eventually but no way was it just coming off. almost finished and ready for final paint. Got my sandblasted parts back 1 fender liner, core support, hemi head covers, a 58 plymouth bumper cover, 57 dodge front upper grill support with hood latch for 134$ out the door. Edited by mikes2nd 2017-06-15 12:20 AM (trans2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- trans2.jpg (171KB - 848 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | got parts back from sandblaster. Por15'ed all the parts I could. Transmission gets primer and paint today. Im hunting for gold paint for the valve covers. I could always go yellow now to match the car. Edited by mikes2nd 2017-06-16 8:44 AM (glyptal.jpg) (fenderliner.jpg) Attachments ---------------- glyptal.jpg (143KB - 907 downloads) fenderliner.jpg (189KB - 879 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | too dang hot, didn't have the right engine paint for the transmission, got the right paint today, only got the bellhousing done, it goes back together tomorrow and final paint. I need to check seals also. You can eat off the bell housing and it sounds like an actual bell. (bellhousing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- bellhousing.jpg (148KB - 789 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | finally done... in 90 degree weather this sucked... (transdone.jpg) Attachments ---------------- transdone.jpg (158KB - 823 downloads) | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Looking good Mike. Change those seals while you got the box out! Steve. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Yeah this is low miles, looks great but I will. Next I can get get back to the hemi and get the front end together. Need to hit the seal and bearing shop down the road. It's great to simply go get any bearing or seal with a short drive. | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3082 Location: N.W. Fla. | mikes2nd - 2017-06-16 7:40 AM little, if any, oil 'flys' around the valve covers. Gyptal is probably a waste of effort there.got parts back from sandblaster. Por15'ed all the parts I could. Transmission gets primer and paint today. Im hunting for gold paint for the valve covers. I could always go yellow now to match the car. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | I'm.more concerned with moisture and rust | ||
BlueGhost |
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Regular Posts: 58 Location: League City, TX | mikes2nd - 2017-05-21 7:58 PM Dodge moved to a different caliper "mid 99" larger bolt, bigger distance between bolts, not happening at all. I thought that was a long shot. If you want dual piston I would go with aaj. Depending upon rim size I can use the 1500, 2500 or 3500HD 94-99 dodge trucks. That 3500 Caliper could stop a train but its still single piston. At that point only abs would help. I will be doing a performance test on my car when I'm done to see how fast I can stop without locking them up. There is still the option of the GM Calipers but I doubt that will be any different. I don't know if you have seen these or not, but SSBC makes a 2-piston caliper for the 90's Dodge/GM trucks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a186-1/overview/year/1995/mak... It might work with the Scarebird kit. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | Hmm interesting, expensive but I will check them out. new seals in trans, cleaned trans hardware, cleaned other head and started putting springs/valves back in, painted, painted valve covers and wire covers. Picked up comp cams break in oil from summit, VHT paint from autozone. heads hopefully go on tomorrow. (valvecovers.jpg) Attachments ---------------- valvecovers.jpg (154KB - 810 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | final assembly for the hemi... this engine is fricking huge... i was worried my engine stand would get crushed. Edited by mikes2nd 2017-06-26 10:22 PM (headson.jpg) Attachments ---------------- headson.jpg (243KB - 843 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10025 Location: So. Cal | Looks good. I wish mine was that far along. Just a warning that you may have trouble fitting those spark plug wire covers under your master cylinder. Is that hole in the back of the valley pan for the oil fill? How are you going to set that up? The checkered flags on it remind me of the '56 D500 emblem. Cool. Only yours will be a D502 Edited by Powerflite 2017-06-26 11:29 PM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | That is for an egr, that cover has a cut out for oil fill. I will upgrade to a dual master for safety. I saw a low profile one. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | I cant believe this engine is this darn huge.. Its beautiful though. (HemiEngine.jpg) Attachments ---------------- HemiEngine.jpg (248KB - 821 downloads) | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5096 | to be safe I bought full floorpans and I started cleaning the frame... (floorpans.jpg) (startcclean.jpg) Attachments ---------------- floorpans.jpg (193KB - 804 downloads) startcclean.jpg (247KB - 874 downloads) | ||
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