I cleaned the brake pad carriers and added heat resistance copper paste at the contact areas. Brand new return springs are mounted as well. The brake hoses front and at the rear axle to the corresponding carriers are mounted as well (clips to keep the brake hose in place as well). Soon, the brake lines...

(IMG_0070 brake pad mounted.JPG)

(IMG_0071 as well the return springs are mounted.JPG)

IMG_0070 brake pad mounted.JPG (298KB - 108 downloads)

IMG_0071 as well the return springs are mounted.JPG (274KB - 109 downloads)

Today I went to the paint&body-shop to visit the owner. One bad news and one good news (a joke). All parts are painted, the dashboard and corresponding parts got a clear coat as well.

This afternoon, wanting to install the brake lines.... only the long brake line I could conned to both ends, but some points to discuss around the front subframe and the rear axle tunnel longitudinal rail... The brake line kit from InlineTubes is from below the lowest bottom drawer, not worth the money I spent. I tried to bent it to the shape the old front axle brake lines show.

The wheels got glossy black and a new set of tires. The tire on the passenger side front wheel is mounted, just to look how it looks.

Dieter

BTW.: new brake lines for the front axle, the rear axle (destroyed at the first shop) and the main brake line from the main brake cylinder to the distribution block are welcome... different supplier?

(IMG_0124 dashboard and small parts painted.JPG)

(IMG_0129 main brake line and rear axle brake lines are a joke InlineTube.JPG)

(IMG_0130 drivers side front wheel brake line does not fit InlineTube.JPG)

(IMG_0131 passenger side front wheel brake line from InlineTube.JPG)

IMG_0124 dashboard and small parts painted.JPG (301KB - 114 downloads)

IMG_0129 main brake line and rear axle brake lines are a joke InlineTube.JPG (327KB - 112 downloads)

IMG_0130 drivers side front wheel brake line does not fit InlineTube.JPG (390KB - 111 downloads)

IMG_0131 passenger side front wheel brake line from InlineTube.JPG (478KB - 110 downloads)

A 3/16 inch roll of steel brake line is at me now, the tools are in shipping mode. I just ask, did you forget, that the dashboard has a cover ontop? So most of the shiny area will be covered with the dash pad.

in the mean time...

partial assembly (preliminary) of the dashboard (new dash board pad ordered, no answer to the question of new aluminum panels).
brake reinforcement plate painted (two layer of rust inhibitor epoxy primer, two layer glossy black). Brake booster packed into a big box to send it to the States for a restoration. No answer until now (no wonder, it's Whit Moday).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_0222 dashboard preliminary part assembly.JPG)

(IMG_0235 brake reinforcement plate painted.JPG)

IMG_0222 dashboard preliminary part assembly.JPG (364KB - 103 downloads)

IMG_0235 brake reinforcement plate painted.JPG (287KB - 106 downloads)

Today I mounted the NOS heater control box into the cleaned holder and back into the moulding. The original heater box... I could remove all buttons without destroying the take up area of the buttons. It is fully functional (all buttons were working hassel free, the fan was working on both speeds, just most of the nipple broke off - I do not dispose it). Prior I removed the rust and did massage penetrating oil onto the holder.

Thank you Sven for the nice parts I could purchase from you.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the illumination got a new bulb (the original one wouldn't last long anymore - from the appearance)

BTW2: the brake booster is on the way to Booster Dewey - I hope I'll get it back once

(IMG_0251 NOS heater control box.JPG)

(IMG_0252 original heater control box.JPG)

IMG_0251 NOS heater control box.JPG (285KB - 104 downloads)

IMG_0252 original heater control box.JPG (262KB - 103 downloads)

I  got the new dash panels. I did mount it yesterday evening. The new panels are looking gorgeous.

To the engine...

The block is bored out, the pistons mounted. I got a notification from the engine builder, containing three pictures (enclosed in the entry).

Short: the engine block is good, the camshaft is toast (lobes worn down), the judgement of the crankshaft is desastrous.

Crankshaft: not like the engine block new at the time, but cut to one step undersize. After grinding, hardening, polishing... one tenth bent of the whole length and many hair cracks did appear. Cylinder grinder and the engine builder do not recomend to use this crankshaft longer - it's jam.

SO, I NEED A NEW EARLY RB CRANKSHAFT, the better the condition, the sooner, the better ~ big thank you

Big thank you

Dieter

(bild1 journal bearing with straightening mark and load of hair cracks.jpg)

(bild2 journal bearing with straightening mark and loads of hair cracks.jpg)

(bild3 journal bearing with straightening mark and load of hair cracks.jpg)

bild1 journal bearing with straightening mark and load of hair cracks.jpg (437KB - 94 downloads)

bild2 journal bearing with straightening mark and loads of hair cracks.jpg (433KB - 99 downloads)

bild3 journal bearing with straightening mark and load of hair cracks.jpg (456KB - 91 downloads)

Hi Ralf
I had a long phone call this morning with the engine restorer about the crankshaft.
First of all installed in my 300 F was a factory refurbished 413 engine.
During the refurbishment process they did use the old crankshaft, cut to the first undersize measurement, but not hardened (soft surface).
Then they had to straighten the crankshaft, because it was apparently bent.

The cylinder grinder is a very professional person. He said, too bad he didn't see the damage sooner, he did grind the crankshaft to the next undersize measurement - nothing did appear until the crankshaft got a hardening process for the surface of the bearing surfaces. During the hardening the cracks did open. the cracks did appear during the polishing process!

The cylinder grinder said, nobody knows how deep theese cracks are (forged crankshaft). Of course during the hardening the crankshaft bent again. For sure the crankshaft could get hammer and chisel (round tip) hits to get it straight again. But the risk for a crankshaft cracking (falling into two parts) will rise drastically.

BTW: my first thought was the same as yours, with no background information.

kind regards

Dieter

Hypthetically just the main and connecting rod bearing surfaces are hardened. It's a question if thermal hardening or chemical hardening is better. But for sure a hardened surface at the bearing surface would last ways longer than a soft surface.

Sidemark, but very interesting... the engine builder did resist from balancing the rotating assembly. So, this way no amount lost for a useless job.

BTW: The trouble began at the Chrysler factory. The should have thrown away that bent crankshaft and use a new one, just like the engine block. Apparently the engine block has been exchanged (why else did the engine block have the original bore measurement?). Of course during the thermal process this crankshaft sprung back to the original shape (bent).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Brake lines are done, except the one from the main brake cylinder to the distributor. But... At one hex nut is free turning at the top right position (one of five) - the threaded stem almost has no thread anymore. Replacement?

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_0365 brake shoe support plate rear axle drivers side - note hex nuts.JPG)

IMG_0365 brake shoe support plate rear axle drivers side - note hex nuts.JPG (236KB - 93 downloads)

Thanks Sven - as far as I got out, it's pressed in. Will see if the Zollshop has the fitting press in screw

UNF 3/8-24 x 1-1/4" - I did order the bolts at epain

Old brake shield bolt (almost no thread on it) of the brake support plate drivers side rear is removed. Light tap with a fitting punch and a light hammer hits was enough to get it out. New bolt (modified screw) installed and all five screws tightened equally.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: still recovering from Covid-19 (16.7.2022 grill party at the employers hall) - negativ again since August, 1st

(old brake shield bolt out - new screw modified.jpg)

old brake shield bolt out - new screw modified.jpg (51KB - 82 downloads)

I don't know if the first shop (lock and farmer smith but not a car mechanic) did sandblast that stem... I had big difficulties to remove all the sand blast sand.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

While assembling the dashboard. I wanted to install the Chrysler 403 Golden Touch radio into the dashboard - not mounted, when I got my Letter. What I discovered is

- one mounting nut is missing - where to get one?

- mounting support rear to the dashboard lower end is missing - where got get one?

I'll appreciate your help. Thank you.

Dieter

(IMG_0740 Chrysler Radio 403 installing.JPG)

IMG_0740 Chrysler Radio 403 installing.JPG (411KB - 57 downloads)

big thanks to you

Just minor details are still waiting for the dash board. It's almost ready to install. I'm waiting for the dash pad now and some small parts already ordered.

(IMG_0774 dashboard waiting for the dash pad.JPG)

IMG_0774 dashboard waiting for the dash pad.JPG (320KB - 57 downloads)

This afternoon first I cleaned up the trunk floor, the axle tunnel and passenger compartment floor (resting sand blasting sand due to force out the sand with pressurized air and nozzle). Then I laid out first the roof wiring (illumination while door is open) and installed the wiring. Some time and the end with the connectors got through the C-pillar as it was. Then the rear light wiring and installed it. Next was the center console and electric window lift wiring. Finally the main wiring, containing the dash board wiring, the engine wiring and the front lights...

Missing... the dash board (just the soft cover - pot metal problems later - retirement of me), the circuit breakers (toDo list on Sunday), the engine and the inner fenders (after the engines is installed).

(IMG_0823 wiring trunk.JPG)

(IMG_0824 connetions trunk and passenger compartment light.JPG)

(IMG_0825 passenger room compartment.JPG)

(IMG_0826 passenger compartment center wiring.JPG)

(IMG_0827 foot well and dash board wiring.JPG)

(IMG_0829 engine compartment wiring.JPG)

IMG_0823 wiring trunk.JPG (206KB - 55 downloads)

IMG_0824 connetions trunk and passenger compartment light.JPG (233KB - 54 downloads)

IMG_0825 passenger room compartment.JPG (195KB - 59 downloads)

IMG_0826 passenger compartment center wiring.JPG (227KB - 56 downloads)

IMG_0827 foot well and dash board wiring.JPG (259KB - 55 downloads)

IMG_0829 engine compartment wiring.JPG (305KB - 57 downloads)

Prior Christmas I traded in the old rear bumper for the cover of the antenna acces at the farmer smith's.

During the Christmas Season I restored and mounted the cover on the passenger side inner fender (antenna cable access).

The crankshaft did arrive and is at the engine restorer's now (last week: two weeks holiday, I didn't see my engine block while googling around).

The dash pad is on the road as well.

A solution for the long awaited brake booster is on sight.

Happy Restoring!

BTW: partial restoration of the kitchen at me is on work as well.

(IMG_1062 Antenna access cover mounted.JPG)

IMG_1062 Antenna access cover mounted.JPG (163KB - 35 downloads)

Thanks a lot to you (both)

Early August 2022 I started with mounting the exhaust system as well. The drivers side muffler didn't fit as expected. So I will have a look next Saturday. Because when I brought the crankshaft to the engine shop, I took the resting parts of the muffler system back to the barn (the exhaust system has to be mounted prior the engine, except you'll remove the steering box).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

The dashpad has arriven. It looks very nice. In short form.. I have to cut out the surrounding of the speaker grille. Then... what glue to use? I assume fluid glue to use a small brush, am I wrong?

It doesn't hurry...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Thank you very much for your very accurate guide to mount the dash pad. In the barn I have to look for the bar with the threaded stems... it's not mounted on the dash pad. I guess I'll take a scissor to cut that area out (soft).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_1175 detail 1960 Chrysler dashpad.JPG)

IMG_1175 detail 1960 Chrysler dashpad.JPG (280KB - 39 downloads)

Thanks for your information. The dashpad is now mounted. But not without scratches at the antracite metallic surface (of course, visible area) I noted that the countersunk phillips screws (8-24 * 3/8") were too short for two position. So I did order a set of the same screws, but 1/2" long.

I mounted the whole exhaust system this morning. The hex nuts at the joints are just slightly torqued.

But the metal strip with 5 studs (I saw it, when I removed the old dashpad - a pain to do it; it's was broken in small pieces and the foam did glue to the surface). I came to the conclusion that I have to take a second 110 Liter trash bag with me, to move from one to the other with a chance to find the strip.

Happy Restoring

Dieter

(IMG_1177 exhaust system installed.JPG)

(IMG_1178 dash pad mounted.JPG)

IMG_1177 exhaust system installed.JPG (293KB - 35 downloads)

IMG_1178 dash pad mounted.JPG (309KB - 33 downloads)

Dear Sven

Please excuse me. It was not a plan to mount the dash pad asap. So I thought I'll read your very good guide later. Too late, yesterday. I could slap my head, inseart the rear first and bend all tabs.

But... I bent the tabs afterwards, the light gap has disappeared and the area above the glove box fits good and tight. At the time righ now.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Postponed to the Spring.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

got the band with the threaded stems for the dash pad, but I assume to contact Tony. One more thing that needs my attention asap!

(IMG_1250 dash pad mounting strip (old one).JPG)

(IMG_1246 malignant melanoma.JPG)

IMG_1250 dash pad mounting strip (old one).JPG (341KB - 26 downloads)

IMG_1246 malignant melanoma.JPG (57KB - 35 downloads)

Dash board stripped again to ship to the body and paint shop to get a new surface of charcoal metallic color. I assume I'm going to install the dash board afterwards direct into the car.

Happy Restoring!

dieter

Dash board stripped again to ship to the body and paint shop to get a new surface of charcoal metallic color. I assume I'm going to install the dash board afterwards direct into the car.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: April, 29th this year appointment at the dermatologist to check my skin.

(IMG_1278 dashboard stripped again to ship.JPG)

IMG_1278 dashboard stripped again to ship.JPG (343KB - 24 downloads)

Got a phone call from the engine builder. He did ask for an appointment at the cylinder grinder company near the engine builders home. March 1st. I'll be there on the afternoon. Title of the mail for the appointment dates is "work on heads and engine block". My Idea was from Nick's Garage "413 Head Work - Valve Job, Bowl Work and New Seals".

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

The windshield trim clips (361 B from Quirey Quality Design, as well as the #704 upper windshield and rear window clips) I got. The rear window trim clips (361 A are not deliverable).

Where to get it? I need 10 clips, the original all mostly are rusted away. I'll appreciate your answer. Thanks

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Thanks, reproduction in Switzerland is the very most expensive way (tool costs!). At least I have two ones (all others were broken into parts due to the corrosion), at one the perimeter is good, on the other the mounting to the body is quite okay, but very coarse, do to the rust.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_1292 361 B windshield molding clips (lower).JPG)

IMG_1292 361 B windshield molding clips (lower).JPG (303KB - 24 downloads)

exactly the same size, thanks my friend!

I was looking into the chapter 23, parts book, exactly the same parts number.