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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
 
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, I finally got to the roof. I repaired the rotted out corners just above the rear window. I started sanding off the roof and am finding the whole roof was covered in bondo. Some areas as thick as 1/8 +. The metal is not rusty, but does seem a bit spongy. A slight bit of pressure it will pop down but will return back up. There are a couple low areas where bondo could have been used, but I don't understand why the whole roof was covered. Maybe as a way to strengthen it ? Just guessing. I don't see why someone would go thru this much effort when other rotted out areas were packed full of bondo and covered up. The underside of the roof has some surface rust, but not rusted thru. My thought was to spot weld a 2-3" strip of 18 ga. to the underside, from side to side, all the way across, between the headliner bows. In hopes this would add a bit more strength to the roof. As there are no supports to help hold the shape of the roof. So,,,,,,,,,any thoughts or ideas, or experience with this sort of thing ?? Thanks, Jerry
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 roof 001.jpg (70KB - 149 downloads)
roof 002.jpg (96KB - 157 downloads)
roof 003.jpg (75KB - 224 downloads)
roof 004.jpg (86KB - 206 downloads)
roof 005.jpg (88KB - 221 downloads)
roof 006.jpg (115KB - 190 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
  
Location: Perth Australia | I would dig it all off, then prime it and then pretty much polish the primer to make the roof really shiney then look.
I would be scared about whats hiding.
Factory didnt do that
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Expert
Posts: 4064
Location: Connecticut | At some point, something must've fallen on the roof, leaving a dent. The previous owner didn't want to pull the headliner, so he bondoed it. I'd remove all the bondo, then see how bad it is. Maybe he was trying to smooth it out and go carried away. Ron |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9715
Location: So. Cal | The fact that the roof can pop up and down means that the metal is stretched. You will need to fix the dents properly and then shrink the metal back. Shrinking metal is not too difficult on a small panel, but on a large roof it can be scary. I would use a shrinking disc if you are going to try it. |
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Expert
Posts: 4064
Location: Connecticut | Powerflite - 2014-02-27 6:59 PM The fact that the roof can pop up and down means that the metal is stretched. You will need to fix the dents properly and then shrink the metal back. Shrinking metal is not too difficult on a small panel, but on a large roof it can be scary. I would use a shrinking disc if you are going to try it. IMHO, if the metal was stretched, then there would be evidence of a significant dent. Also, if this was the case, there would be less of a chance of the metal 'oil canning', in the same sense that channels are added to floors and trunks to eliminate this effect (and also to give them strength). Maybe Big M can chime in here, since he is the master of metal working. Ron |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | Now that you mention it, I think the metal is stretched too. I think that primer/polish thing is a good idea also. Then i can see what's going on there. Thanks guys. Jerry |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 982
Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | .....
That's a hell of a lot of bog ( bondo ) on the roof Jerry......... I'm certainly no body man but there must be some reason for it as others have also said ???
Maybe somone walked/sat on the roof at sometime in it's pre-history and caved it in a bit ??
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7809
Location: Williams California | Jerry-
I's hard to tell by the photos, but by description, the roof has lost some of its crown, this usually happens in snow country where too much weight has caused the roof to cave in, and was popped out later. Also, a person walking across the roof would do this. If this is the case, there will be noticeable high spots nearer to the roof's edge that resemble smiles.
Once all the filler is removed, run your hands over the roof, feeling for any variations. Any high spots will need to be dollied down, while keeping upward pressure on the low areas, until the crown of the roof has been restored, which also will prevent the 'oil-canning' effect of the metal being loose.
---John |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | As John has said.
The hard thing is when where you have to hammer and dolly is longer/further away than what your effective reach is like a big panel.
The main dents and crowns though, (if its a caved in roof, not a jumped on roof) will be mostly around the edges, You said the roof "oil cans", you will want to put upward pressure in around the middle of the dent (which is probably the middle of the roof), so its in the place where it will be right (roughly), then as you knock the high spots down around the edge, it will make the low spot (centre of the dent) want to stay out and not "oil can".
But you will want to make sure you go all the way around the roof first before you release the pressure from the middle of the dent, to try and keep the work concistant.
Big panels are the worst to get right, especially if your going to make it shiney
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | you may find , you should have left well enough alone . it's a killer to get big panels right after dents----------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-03-01 12:05 AM
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Veteran
Posts: 104
Location: FIN land | Hello! Here´s my 2 cents...when You want to strenghten the roof panel to hold and stay in correct shape I would NOT recommend to spot weld the metal strip to roof panel, weld only the ends of the metal strip...You will most likely end up causing a lot more damage to the roof panel due the heat of the spot welds...today´s method is to glue the metal strip by automotive body panel glue.
In case You decide to spot weld the strenghtening strips, remember that spot welds will shrink steel and spotwelded areas must be stretched back..
(unfortunately I have to admit that mother MoPar did not make very good hoods or roof panels comparing to others of the same era..).
I have strenghtened few roof panels by this method: bend a flat metal strip to correct shape of the roof, clean the area to be glued, apply some glue, place the metal strip on the correct position and weld both ends of the strip to roof "frame" on sides of the roof. (make sure that welds do not bend the metal strip)... Usually several strenghtening metal strips across the roof are needed if the whole roof panel has been damaged... 3 -5 strips will usually do the trick.
If the roof panel is terribly spongy You may also need to step up on to next skill level and learn how to shrink body panels with "hot spots"...this is also very "down to earth" method and can be learned by anyone, I would guess You can check this out on youtube or google....or ask a local skillfull (=elderly) body man.
Edited by budweiser 2014-03-01 12:42 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1102
Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey guys, I got the roof completely cleaned off. There are no large dents in the middle, ( like something falling on it ) and no wrinkle around the edges. There is an occassional small high spot that can be felt by hand. On the right side just above the rear side window is a slight dent about 3-4" x 10-12". It's not a severe dent, just enough to be noticeable. As I was taking it off I also thought maybe i should leave it be. I think I will do the prime/polish thing so I can see what it looks like. My Fab guy gave me a 2" wide piece of 16 ga. Thought I would play around with that and see how it works. OK, the glue, what kind of glue and where can I get it ???? Thanks guys, appreciate your help !! Jerry |
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Expert
Posts: 4064
Location: Connecticut | Jerry - If there's no evidence of major damage to the roof, why do you want to mess with it ? The metal is the way it came from the factory. It's the same on your car as it was on all 59 Dodges. There's no need to 'improve' on what Ma Mopar built. Ron |
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Veteran
Posts: 104
Location: FIN land | Here in europe we usually use "Sikaflex"- body adhesives and I believe that brand is available allover the globe at car part stores and automotive paint shops etc...do not use the similar looking products which are meant to be used to fix your house, but find a good quality automotive body adhesive...I quess Your local car parts store can help You out..I suppose they sell these adhesives to "fast and furious generation" so they can glue those ugly spoilers on their rice cup cars.... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9715
Location: So. Cal | If you are going to glue that brace to the roof, do it last; after all the dents are removed, and the metal shrunk. Otherwise, it may cause other problems. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 982
Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | budweiser - 2014-03-01 5:07 PM
Hello! Here´s my 2 cents...when You want to strenghten the roof panel to hold and stay in correct shape I would NOT recommend to spot weld the metal strip to roof panel, weld only the ends of the metal strip...You will most likely end up causing a lot more damage to the roof panel due the heat of the spot welds...today´s method is to glue the metal strip by automotive body panel glue.
In case You decide to spot weld the strenghtening strips, remember that spot welds will shrink steel and spotwelded areas must be stretched back..
(unfortunately I have to admit that mother MoPar did not make very good hoods or roof panels comparing to others of the same era..).
I have strenghtened few roof panels by this method: bend a flat metal strip to correct shape of the roof, clean the area to be glued, apply some glue, place the metal strip on the correct position and weld both ends of the strip to roof "frame" on sides of the roof. (make sure that welds do not bend the metal strip)... Usually several strenghtening metal strips across the roof are needed if the whole roof panel has been damaged... 3 -5 strips will usually do the trick.
If the roof panel is terribly spongy You may also need to step up on to next skill level and learn how to shrink body panels with "hot spots"...this is also very "down to earth" method and can be learned by anyone, I would guess You can check this out on youtube or google....or ask a local skillfull (=elderly) body man.
.......
I've seen quite a few other model cars ( GM/Ford/Holden/Valiant and others ) here using braces welded much like budweiser's description above presumably to minimise the " oil can " effect also described previously. Most of them use the brace and a material about 3/8 inch thick that sort of looks like carpet underfelt ?? inserted between the brace and roof.
Anyway, it's glued to both the brace and roof panel and helps with any vibrations/drumming/" oil canning " effect along with strengthening the roof panel to some extent.
......
Edited by VAN HELSING 2014-03-02 2:34 PM
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59 Dodge roof
