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NOS center link with dried grease Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Steering and Suspension | Message format |
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | Bought an NOS center link that has dried up grease in it. Anyone have ideas on what to do with it? | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Try to clean it out with brake clean and shop air. Once out use new grease. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | heat it up with low torch heat or even a blow dryer then blow the old grease out with new ,,,, but remove rubbers first --------------------------------------------later | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7808 Location: Williams California | Let it soak in mineral spirits for a couple days, it should soften the old grease enough to be able to push it out with new grease. ---John | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | oe nos mopar fullsize 57-62? there should be no grease in there. these have (unfortunately) "maintenance free" rubber bushings. | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | The first pics is as it came out of the box. I had thought maybe I could drill and tap the back side to put a zirc in there. The second shows what looks like dried grease. Upon further examination, it looks like it could be a rubber insert in there. The last is the only number on it. In the ebay ad there was a typical 7 digit number shown. Edited by b5rt 2013-05-13 8:51 PM (phone pics 5-13-13 037.jpg) (phone pics 5-13-13 038.jpg) (phone pics 5-13-13 039.jpg) Attachments ---------------- phone pics 5-13-13 037.jpg (111KB - 286 downloads) phone pics 5-13-13 038.jpg (111KB - 278 downloads) phone pics 5-13-13 039.jpg (98KB - 295 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i was thinkin of the inner tie rod fittings . i have 3 nos center links here and they all look as yours ------------------------------------------------later | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | b5rt - 2013-05-13 8:47 PM The first pics is as it came out of the box. I had thought maybe I could drill and tap the back side to put a zirc in there. The second shows what looks like dried grease. Upon further examination, it looks like it could be a rubber insert in there. The last is the only number on it. In the ebay ad there was a typical 7 digit number shown. yes thats the oe center link. its not dried grease, its wax just there to keep the tapered stud from rusting. there is no grease in there and there is no zerk fitting because it has a soft rubber bushing, yes maintenance free, but there is no metal/metal contact and this, along with the soft rubber steering coupler, adds to the mushy,indirect road feel. i had lots of trouble with these getting my cars thru the bi annual german safety inspections because the safety inspectors wouldnt believe me the steering free play is "OE". i rebuild these center links using BALL end studs with floating hemispherical washers and matching steel insert,removable cap and zerk fitting. my centerlinks last forever and together with a nylon steering coupler they give MUCH better steering feedback and much less steering freeplay. Edited by 1960fury 2013-05-14 3:37 PM | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Hello Sid, Can you show me how you rebuild the centre links? Also see you do the heater valves. can you advise on parts sources? Thanks for your advice. Steve. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13055 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Edited by wizard 2013-05-14 10:44 AM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | hi steve, i fabricate steel inserts that go into the oe center link hsg and then flare the insert end over it for a tight fit. important, i do not heat, weld or alter the center link body in any way and only use quality moog components. when in comes to steering parts, especially center links/tie rods, i'm a safety freak. NEVER heat these components. that hemispherical washer (first pic) that fits perfectly into the insert is the key for longevity. of course the stud is spring loaded. these center links last forever but could be easily serviced since they feature a threaded removable cap. heater valve seals for oe ranco/robertshaw valves are still available from napa. part #660-1000 Edited by 1960fury 2013-05-14 3:35 PM (centerlink1ds2.jpg) (centerlink2ds2.jpg) (centerlink3ds.jpg) (centerlink4ds.jpg) Attachments ---------------- centerlink1ds2.jpg (54KB - 288 downloads) centerlink2ds2.jpg (88KB - 287 downloads) centerlink3ds.jpg (11KB - 299 downloads) centerlink4ds.jpg (13KB - 297 downloads) | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | and this is the oe centerlink stud and rubber bushing. thats all whats in there. its not spring loaded. i really love 57-61 mopar engineering but they goofed the center link and steering coupler. looks like as if they tried everything to make the steering as mushy as possible! (centerlinkstudoeds.jpg) Attachments ---------------- centerlinkstudoeds.jpg (37KB - 296 downloads) | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | Thanks for the great info! | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Awesome Sid, so, will you sell a rebuild kit? Plenty of talented enthusiasts would like the option of doing a rebuild on their own link. Steve. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7808 Location: Williams California | Nice work, Sid! You really ought to sell those as a kit, as these centerlinks seem to be troublesome. ---John | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | big m - 2013-05-15 6:02 PM Nice work, Sid! You really ought to sell those as a kit, as these centerlinks seem to be troublesome. ---John Totally agree with John, Having a Solid "Centre Link " makes a hell of a difference to driving our cars, Many people dont replace them because of the cost of replacement , A KIT would sell really well and help out many members and owners.. Clive UK . | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | thanks. due to production tolerances i machine each insert individually for a perfect fit. so a kit wouldn't work,unfortunately. also i fabricated a large flaring tool that is needed for installation. i offered a rebuild/exchange service some time ago but shipping is the killer. also i'm out of studs and just found out they are no longer available. so i will have to kill a certain type of tie rod end for each centerlink conversion! | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | Rebels-59 Coronet - 2013-05-15 3:34 PM big m - 2013-05-15 6:02 PM Nice work, Sid! You really ought to sell those as a kit, as these centerlinks seem to be troublesome. ---John Totally agree with John, Having a Solid "Centre Link " makes a hell of a difference to driving our cars, Many people dont replace them because of the cost of replacement , A KIT would sell really well and help out many members and owners.. Clive UK . yes it makes a huge difference. its not just the mushy/no feedback feel, the spring action of the rubber is really annoying, when driving you try to adjust the steering wheel and because the rubber bushing is so soft you over adjust each time followed by the spring action of the rubber moving the pitman arm more than you wanted to, so of course following again is steering adjustment..... and this goes on forever. so you are constantly moving the steering wheel from left to right when driving straight ahead. also another thing is chances are the rubber bushed stud of the center link is forced to slant in one or the other direction by the pitman arm in the straight ahead steering position giving unequal side thrust. a solid bearing ball end stud simply adjusts to the position it is forced into by the pitman arm. Edited by 1960fury 2013-05-16 6:56 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | So; take orders for your work! I'd buy some for myself, and for trading purposes. If you'd take Paypal, this would be an easy protocol; just wrangle some boxes and pay yourself for your labor, handling & shipping costs. Edited by d500neil 2013-05-16 8:01 PM | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Hey Sid, if you are prepared to share your knowledge, maybe we start a world wide franchise. Find three members, divide the globe into quarters and lets get those old centre links fixed up good! Retirement here I come! Oh yeah, I just remembered, not many old Chryslers in my quarter Seriously though Sid, this info has value, even if it just so someone can fix up their own link. Will you share the sources and special tooling drawings? Steve. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | Bump. Since I have to rebuild a couple of OE center links, I remembered this 6 year old thread and wonder if I should fabricate/sell rebuild kits, as requested in this thread. I'm at it anyway. There are no solid bushing center links available for our 57-61 cars, except Chinese ones, with from what I have heard have plastic liners. The Rare Parts units were around $300 last time I checked and required a core. Only one bushing is needed as the bushing only gives lateral play and sponginess and no measurable up/down movement, so the idler arm side is fine with a rubber bushing. It won't be as cheap as my idler arm kits, since I have to obtain quality (Moog) components, but still way cheaper than the Rare Parts units. Would there be an interest? And if so, how strong is it? I have no Idea what they thought when they put the OE marshmallow center links on these cars, but everyone still driving around with a rubber bushing is missing out! Edited by 1960fury 2019-08-14 7:15 PM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9692 Location: So. Cal | Would we need to purchase a flaring tool as well, and what is involved with installing it? | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9692 Location: So. Cal | I wonder if it would be as effective to make polyurethane bushings to replace the rubber ones directly. That might stiffen it up quite a bit and probably cheaper than replacing the stud. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Sid, PST offers new center links for our cars, I have one but have not installed it yet. I do not know the construction of the bushings, but they feel very rigid to me and they do include grease zerks. It seems to be a decent piece, but only after installation and use for a while would I really know for sure. Maybe you want to pick one up for comparison? https://p-s-t.com/i-23158027-center-link.html | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | Powerflite - 2019-08-14 8:45 PM I wonder if it would be as effective to make polyurethane bushings to replace the rubber ones directly. That might stiffen it up quite a bit and probably cheaper than replacing the stud. You will need steel for precise steering, Poly will sure improve the OE design but still gives the spring-action that forces you to constantly correct the steering wheel when driving straight ahead. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | Powerflite - 2019-08-14 8:42 PM Would we need to purchase a flaring tool as well, and what is involved with installing it? Well, no, the kit would be not for people with 2 left hands and no basic home tools but it would be doable without a flaring tool. All you would have to do is to crimp the insert-collar around the center link stud-bore, also requires enlarging the bore a tiny bit, 1mm (+0.5mm radius or 0.018"). A 45° conus piece would help but it could be done with a hammer and a drift. Edited by 1960fury 2019-08-15 7:46 AM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | jboymechanic - 2019-08-14 10:36 PM Sid, PST offers new center links for our cars, I have one but have not installed it yet. I do not know the construction of the bushings, but they feel very rigid to me and they do include grease zerks. It seems to be a decent piece, but only after installation and use for a while would I really know for sure. Maybe you want to pick one up for comparison? https://p-s-t.com/i-23158027-center-link.html Ok, thanks for letting me know! 125 USD for a new center link is hard to beat. Guess that kills the project. Pretty sure it is Chinese at that price, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is bad. Can you post a close up pic of the stud side without the seal/boot please? Many Chinese replacement ball joints and rod ends are a cheap design, with the stud in direct contact with the housing, without the hemispherical, floating washer, like OE tie rod ends. Some even have plastic liners! My kit would consist of an insert mated to the stud/washer, actually even better than the OE tie rods. Edited by 1960fury 2019-08-15 7:42 AM | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Sid, I couldn't really see what's inside the joint, but I'm guessing it is what PST calls "Polygraphite". https://p-s-t.com/c-1176072-suspension-suspension-components-polygra... | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | jboymechanic - 2019-08-15 11:51 PM Sid, I couldn't really see what's inside the joint, but I'm guessing it is what PST calls "Polygraphite". https://p-s-t.com/c-1176072-suspension-suspension-components-polygra... So it is not ball/all steel joint?! I wondered already why there isn't a boot on their center link. On the other hand you mentioned grease fittings? I'm confused. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13055 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | If they use polygraphite bushings Sid, then they must be greased for to prevent squeeks from the plastic. Your idea is far better and for sure more reliable. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | I thought that is the deal about polygraphite bushings. They imbed Graphite in Polyurethane for lubrication, to make it maintenance free? | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13055 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I had a pair polygraphite bushings in the rear leaf springs - finally I installed a grease zerk for to get rid of the squeaks. Now I use standard rubber bushings instead. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | The main bushings and the shackle bushings on mine are all Polyurethane (not Graphite). Installed them with the grease that came with them. Never had any squeaks an they are still like new after 20+ years. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13055 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | That would mean that there are huge difference in quality obviuosly Sid - mine never gave me nothing but problems. Sadly, I cannot remember the brand now. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7414 Location: northern germany | I do not remember the brands either, all I know, 2 different sources. I believe the main bushings came from Spings'n'Things and the shackle bushings from a well known source and now that I write that, I remember only the shackle bushings came with grease, I used the clear "Superlube" PTFE grease on the main bushings. I use that stuff everywhere, from u-joints to speedo cables. | ||
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