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BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | And just one more pic.... this is after a cleaning and a chemical rust converter / sealer was applied. Ready for some shiny silver now. (004b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 004b.jpg (152KB - 236 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7809 Location: Williams California | That really did a good job on the cleaning, Rick. You're making some excellent progress there! ---John | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Thanks, John... it looks pretty cute with the weathered, darkened raw finish if you ask me, but I already got the paint, and I gotta use it on sumthin. So, the most recent progress report... - found the source of my vibration... the rear u-joint center section is chewed up, causing the needle bearings to snag and pop when the joint is moving.... gotta get a new one of those. Luckily, the ball-and-trunion is in great shape, so a new cleaning and boot, and that's done. - still haven't pulled the front fenders yet, haven't had time just yet, but hopefully will soon so I can go through the front end and figure out what all I need there. - Got my engine enamel from Bill Hirsch today, so I'll be spraying that on the block soon enough. A few pics: (004b.jpg) (009b.jpg) (028b.jpg) (013b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 004b.jpg (112KB - 210 downloads) 009b.jpg (99KB - 224 downloads) 028b.jpg (118KB - 236 downloads) 013b.jpg (106KB - 219 downloads) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | And, now in it's primer coat, waiting for the shiny paint to be applied... should be getting that sprayed on right before the Christmas holiday with any luck. (001b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 001b.jpg (133KB - 210 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Rick, I dunno if it's too late, now, or, if you really want to replicate the engine's OEM color, but "Aluminum" high heat engine paint is NOT the correct engine color. You want a high heat "Silver", not an "aluminum" finish on an OEM-color engine. If it's already painted in that aluminum shade, and if you cared about the OEM color, you could always apply the silver color over the aluminum finish. You can ask Hirsch if they provide a correct 'silver' finish, but, there are completely adequate 'rattle can' high heat engine paints that are available. Edited by d500neil 2011-12-14 2:18 PM | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | d500neil - 2011-12-14 2:16 PM Rick, I dunno if it's too late, now, or, if you really want to replicate the engine's OEM color, but "Aluminum" high heat engine paint is NOT the correct engine color. You want a high heat "Silver", not an "aluminum" finish on an OEM-color engine. If it's already painted in that aluminum shade, and if you cared about the OEM color, you could always apply the silver color over the aluminum finish. You can ask Hirsch if they provide a correct 'silver' finish, but, there are completely adequate 'rattle can' high heat engine paints that are available. Well, poop.... I was trying to find the "correct" color, and I actually found a link to this paint, on this forum.... It is the only bright "silver" type color that they offer on their website. They call it "Aluminum" but it is the only color of that type they list that I could find. I have used the rattle can stuff, like Dupli-Color, and had decent success with it, but over time, leaks and heat seem to take their toll on the finish. I had planned on going that route before reading the section regarding this paint. Dupli-Color has a true silver paint, I have seen it. The only problem is that is looks darker than the og silver color that I saw in spots on the engine block.... It doesn't have to be perfect, obviously, but I would like for it to be correct if I can. Any other thoughts on this matter? I know I remember seeing a couple of folks remarking how they used the rattle cans, and that they looked nice and pretty for a while, but down the road, they hadn't weathered so good.... I plan on putting this engine back in the car and leaving it there. Now is not too late to change gears on engine paint. I have bought some paint, yes, and would hate to let the can just sit on the shelf in the garage, but I could.... Anybody feel free to chime in with their ideas/suggestions... I am still a newbie on these big finned mopar things... If anybody has any questions about an air-cooled VW beetle, I will tell you all kinds of stuff.... | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Oh, and when I say it's not too late to modify plans, I mean the primer is all that is on the block at the moment... I knew I couldn't finish the primer and paint in the time I had, so I am waiting the 7 days for that to cure before applying the top coat. So there's time to offer suggestions here. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | I also located the old thread about the silver engine paint (what I used as my guide for paint purchasing) and bumped it up to the top of the list... It's in the General Technical Section. | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | The Hirsch Aluminum paint is recommended by the Plymouth Owners Club as being "closest to correct." I think it's not as shiny as it should be, but it sure is tough. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Rick, just for grins, if your auto paint suppliers have Krylon brand Hi-Heat Silver paint (or, even some other Hi-Heat Silver paints) , go buy a can of it/them, and do a little experimentation on your engine. The oil pan areas would be ideal for this. Theoretically, you want to achieve a light-ish semi gloss silver color; nothing glossy (like a real 'aluminum' paint would provide) and nothing particularly dark colored. If you don't like the results, you can easily bury that paint finish with the Hirsch-canned stuff. The Hirsch can describes its color as being "high gloss"---and, you really don't want to have a high-gloss paint finish (on a non- hot-rod car). Brian, above, gives the Hirsch paint a hi-recommendation, so, it may not be "High Gloss Aluminum" as its label states. Edited by d500neil 2011-12-14 3:08 PM | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | Bill Hirsch on a Flattie Same motor several years later | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Yeah... that looks nice. Pretty sure that's what I am gonna stick with. Again, my stuff gets driven and used, so durability is what I am all about. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Got some work done on this old Mo-Cheen tonight... Hood unbolted, fenders off, fender liners undone, and the core support removed... Found one little rotted spot at the base of the passenger fender, easy enough... no big nasty surprises, so that's good. Like I suspected, the fender on that side appears to be a replacement (it also never had any holes for the V8 emblem) Probably the result of a little fender bender at the hads of the little old lady driver.... The fender liners are in great shape (thank you undercoating) No rot on the body shell behind those fenders. The paint is even shiny behind there.... Pics: (166b.jpg) (175b.jpg) (184b.jpg) (192b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 166b.jpg (131KB - 217 downloads) 175b.jpg (131KB - 205 downloads) 184b.jpg (139KB - 217 downloads) 192b.jpg (118KB - 221 downloads) | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | When you get yours finished come on over to AR and I'll teach ya the "Razorback Fight Song". Thats looking good. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | oldwood - 2011-12-28 11:16 AM When you get yours finished come on over to AR and I'll teach ya the "Razorback Fight Song". Thats looking good. Thanks, Dorsey. I Might just do that.... I think I really lucked out on this one. These old cars, in spite of their coolness, were not noted for their quality. In fact, it was much the opposite of that.... I am quite happy that I was able to find one with such limited rot. It's just that much sooner that I get to be back behind the wheel. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | The regulator was acting up on my gun, so I ended up with some orange peel going on with the valve covers, probably just gonna let it cure for the week, sand them down, and re-spray them. Man.... nuthin' in the world prettier than a freshly sprayed block. Several of my buddies were saying that they thought the silver paint would just be boring. Quite to the contrary, I think it looks Beautiful.... (004b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 004b.jpg (117KB - 462 downloads) | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | That sure is a purdy boat anchor. Do ya think she will run!!!! Lookin Good!!!! | ||
Finsinthemirror |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1116 Location: CA | I agree, it looks beautiful! I just love that a 4-dr is getting a new lease on life for a change. Congrats on your hard work! | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | Let it cure before you panic. That hirsch paint is pretty heavy and it might settle some. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | oldwood - 2011-12-29 9:29 PM That sure is a purdy boat anchor. Do ya think she will run!!!! Lookin Good!!!! Darn right she will run, and run well.... And, as for a boat anchor... it had better be a big boat to even haul that kinda weight around... | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Finsinthemirror - 2011-12-29 9:31 PM I agree, it looks beautiful! I just love that a 4-dr is getting a new lease on life for a change. Congrats on your hard work! Thanks for the compliments. And, yeah... I have been saying for a while now how glad I am that the supply of 2dr hardtops is drying up. Finally, people are remembering that they made ones with four doors too. My next FLK car will be a wagon with any luck. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | 57plymouth - 2011-12-29 11:33 PM Let it cure before you panic. That hirsch paint is pretty heavy and it might settle some. Yeah. Kinda what I had in mind. I know it went on heavier on the valve covers than anywhere else. I need to pick up another regulator for my gun. I will let it cure for the week that Hirsch reccomends, then re-evaluate it. If it still needs a little attention, a week away is no big deal. Just happy to see the shiny silver on it. I am in no hurry. The rest of the car won't QUITE be ready in a week anyway.... | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Wow... never mind... I just got in to work a little bit ago, and the paint settled down A LOT overnight. The surface is still a little bumpy, but the color / flake consistency is amazing. At the most, I might consider just going back over it lightly for a little added paint layering to make the finish as durable as possible. I have gotten a slightly more smooth finish in the past with rattle cans, but this stuff lays heavy, and solid on the surface. It looks nice. Thanks again to this forum and it's members for pointing me in the right direction for paint selection. I am really happy with the result. Edited by BarnFind57 2011-12-30 8:21 AM | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | Your right about 4dr's. I just bought some bling bling for my 4dr. I'll post pics on my thread when I get my package. I'm glad your paint is curing better. Nothing like doing it twice, WRONG!!! | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Yeah, it's better than I thought it would be, but the light was giving way last night when I shot it too, and this morning I can definitely see some thin spots in the paint here and there. I called Hirsch, and they reccomend to wait for at least 10, preferably 14 days, and I shoudl be able to avoid any wrinkling of the paint if I try and shoot a second coat right on top of what I have. I think that's what I will do.... It's not like there is nothing else I can be doing in the meantime.... | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2637 Location: Minor Hill, TN | You might want to see about converting to disc brakes in the front for better stopping. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | I do hope some day to upgrade to disc brakes for sure. People have lost the ability to pay attention to what on Earth they are doing when behind the wheel. In the meantime, I have already rebuilt the stock system with new parts.... I still need to pick up a new master cylinder. I also plan on running all new metal lines while the car s down.... I have also been strongly considering keeping the 4 drums, but upgrading to a power assist system. Brakes can never be too good. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Okay.... so I promise, the last pics of the engine.... Got the second coat on the block today after replacing the regulator on my gun.... IT LOOKS BEE-YOO-TEE-FULL.... The tins have a super slick coating on them. Nice Gloss to the finish. Cast Iron looks good too. Never had used this paint before, and I must say that I am impressed. Enough of that... now back to work.... (002b.jpg) (033b.jpg) (010b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 002b.jpg (227KB - 412 downloads) 033b.jpg (208KB - 229 downloads) 010b.jpg (220KB - 186 downloads) | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | I'm glad you like it! | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Did some of the clean up in the engine compartment.... All of that about painting the firewall... ummm.... never mind... Gonna sound like a broken record, here. I was genuinely surprised by what I found. The paint on this thing is unreal. Took these pics after cleaning up with some degreaser. The paint still has a high gloss. I will spot spray a few areas (mainly around the brake master, and the sections on the sealant where the paint peeled.) And that's it.... What looks like rust in the pics is actually just exposed body sealer. The only rust is surface, at the very bottom corner at the leading rocker edge. What a beautiful color this car was. Looking forward to seeing the whole exterior freshly re-sprayed in it. Hopefully I can finish up with the clean-up tomorrow night. It's going pretty quickly. Pics: (014b.jpg) (034b.jpg) (066b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 014b.jpg (224KB - 196 downloads) 034b.jpg (244KB - 185 downloads) 066b.jpg (219KB - 201 downloads) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | The body anchor point... not so much as a speck of surface rust... (055b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 055b.jpg (133KB - 174 downloads) | ||
LookForward |
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Regular Posts: 78 Location: Mistake on the Lake | Amazing Rick, you really lucked out in a lot of ways with this car. That color's beautiful, how do you plan on matching the original shade with your respray? | ||
Steppinout |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 664 Location: Wales, Wisconsin | Haven't been on this site for awhile but just read your post from beginning to end. WOW!! Very cool car and love your step by step build info/pics. I have almost no mechanical ability but can truly appreciate what you are doing. It all looks great. John | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | LookForward - 2012-01-13 9:36 AM Amazing Rick, you really lucked out in a lot of ways with this car. That color's beautiful, how do you plan on matching the original shade with your respray? Yeah... I am used to old cars that every time you unbolt something, you find three more things wrong. I have held my breath every step of the way on this beast. I have stated before, I operate on a VERY tight budget with my projects... I have three girls at home who need to eat... It's been a pleasant surprise how it's all worked out for me. It's also allowed me to move along at a pace much faster than I am used to as well. Clean and put back on is a much better method... Dorsey and I were just talking a while back about the car. He commented about the pace that I am keeping. I told him that I don't have a choice. The car is promised as the "getaway car" for a wedding on June the 9th..... MY WEDDING.... and as we all are aware, you can't make mama unhappy.... As for the color, (which is beautiful, I must agree) I contacted the local outfit that has mixed paint from gallons to aerosol cans for all of my VW projects in the past. The guy at the counter who I always deal with did a little digging, and was able to find the paint codes for the Silver Charcoal, and the Satin Gray. Luckily, my car wasn't built on the West Coast, he didn't have any of that. I will have them mix an aerosol can first, and I will do some tests. They also have the ability to do a match if I can bring them something to get the color off of. Hopefully the first try will get it. They have done a great job in the past. I get more excited about this car every time I touch it. Usually at this point, I don't even want to look at the car in question. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Steppinout - 2012-01-13 2:26 PM Haven't been on this site for awhile but just read your post from beginning to end. WOW!! Very cool car and love your step by step build info/pics. I have almost no mechanical ability but can truly appreciate what you are doing. It all looks great. John Thanks for the compliments, glad you are enjoying reading and looking, I am having a great time bringing life back into her. I honestly can't help the storytelling, it's in my nature. I love to show how stuff is done, not just the finished product. I'd post pics of my other work, but not many people are into VWs on here. | ||
LookForward |
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Regular Posts: 78 Location: Mistake on the Lake | BarnFind57 - 2012-01-13 4:17 PM The car is promised as the "getaway car" for a wedding on June the 9th..... MY WEDDING.... and as we all are aware, you can't make mama unhappy.... That leaves you almost a whole month until Carlisle... BarnFind57 - 2012-01-13 4:17 PM I will have them mix an aerosol can first, and I will do some tests. They also have the ability to do a match if I can bring them something to get the color off of. Hopefully the first try will get it. They have done a great job in the past. Real curious to see how this works out for you. I've heard a lot of grumbles from various folks over the years who try to get new paint mixed "by the book" to match old original colors. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Nice looking engine color, there, Rick! And, for anyone else wanting to paint their engines in the proper shade of Silver, Rick's 'canned' spray-gun paint looks just like Krylon's 'rattle-can' High-Heat engine "Silver" paint (or: vice-versa). Nice looking work, Rick. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | You would have to look REALLY hard to see the difference between the block and the couple add-ons (plug wire holders, timing pointer, carb. spring bracket) i bolted up today that I painted with the Dupli-Color rattle can aluminum. Biggest difference is the heavier application of the Hirsch stuff. The Color is darned near identical. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | LookForward - 2012-01-13 5:25 PM BarnFind57 - 2012-01-13 4:17 PM The car is promised as the "getaway car" for a wedding on June the 9th..... MY WEDDING.... and as we all are aware, you can't make mama unhappy.... That leaves you almost a whole month until Carlisle... BarnFind57 - 2012-01-13 4:17 PM I will have them mix an aerosol can first, and I will do some tests. They also have the ability to do a match if I can bring them something to get the color off of. Hopefully the first try will get it. They have done a great job in the past. Real curious to see how this works out for you. I've heard a lot of grumbles from various folks over the years who try to get new paint mixed "by the book" to match old original colors. Yeah, the color may not be exact, but I intend to leave the underhood area alone, paint all the door jamb areas, underside of the trunk lid i will leave, etc... I will probably blend them into one another wherever they do meet.... gonna test it in the trunk area, and go from there, since that will all need a re-paint anyhoo. I will be pulling up the floor liner. I am sure there is surface rust, but don't know just how nasty that will be. May end up with a new coat of paint there too. Edited by BarnFind57 2012-01-13 10:34 PM | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | BarnFind57 - 2012-01-11 10:51 PM They need to give that painter a raise for the RUN he left you with in the pic shown in the mounting brace picture.The body anchor point... not so much as a speck of surface rust... | ||
ThomasD500 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 508 Location: Orlando | When I pulled my car apart (original paint), there were runs everywhere...firewall, doorjambs, you name it. | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | No doubt the newly hired in the paint dept. got the job of spraying anything that wasn't outer body. That engine color looks great! And that shade of blue will be pretty sharp. | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Yeah, the under areas of paint are not the neatest done in the world on older cars. Some areas the paint is obviously a bit thinner too. The factory applied undercoating on my car is a mess. They sorta applied it everywhere, got overspray on spots, missed other areas... Quality, i tell ya... On a side note, in addition to the underside/ fenderwell, bottom side of the hood, and bumper valance areas, my car also has undercoating applied in the area of the trunk, on the lower sides and floor... Was this part of what the factory did, or was this most likely done later in the car's life? Any ideas on that one? And, during the cleaning, it looks like the hood hinges are either a galvanized or painted bright silver, with red springs. It seems I saw a post elsewhere on that, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find it now. Probably just gonna clean my hinges, but the paint is falling off the springs, so I will re-spray those. | ||
ThomasD500 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 508 Location: Orlando | My springs (1957 Dodge) were red. It was really hard to tell...they just looked rusty. But after I cleaned them up and scraped the rust off with a wire brush, I could see the red paint in spots. The hinges looked galvanized to me once I cleaned them up, but they also had some rust (galvanizing doesn't last indefinitely.) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Yeah, I think that's what mine were... galvanized... they have a nice coating of what appears to be white lithium type grease mixed with underhood grime and grease, but no rust. Hopefully just a good cleaning is all I need there. And yeah, my springs were originally what looks like a cherry red color, a lot of it is still present, but it's flaking off as I am cleaning them. And, one other note on the exterior color... It looks a bit more blue in the images than it does in real light. I am taking these pics under flourescent, at night, so the color is actually a bit more silver/ grey with a slight blue hue going on. Regardless, it is still a real nice color. Very similar to the '58 Dodge Kingsway posted by "Tom80" in the General discussion Forum section. the color he showed in the chart is "Charcoal Poly".... Mine is called Silver Charcoal... Thinking it's the same color, if not, real close. I really like the way that car looks... kinda gives me an idea of what mine would look like (if it had two doors and no big fat b-pillar ) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Rolling right along.... I got the hinges off the body, taking them to work for a quick clean and refresh. The driver's side of the firewall cleaned up. Again, really clean for the most part, but the years of a leaky master cylinder did a number on the paint around and below it. Gonna have to spray some fresh paint on there. Started cleaning up the pounds of grease and grime from the frame. Paint appears to be in decent shape from the engine mounting area back, just surface rust on the front section. Still plan on shooting a quick coat of paint on all that's exposed, then back in with the engine and trans. I want to use the lift at work, and it looks like I might be able to get it done either this weekend or next. Pulling the trim from around the windows in preparation for body work which will be commencing shortly. Meanwhile, at work... bolting up all the little bits and pieces on the engine, got the manifolds cleaned up and painted with some VHT Header paint. It's looking great. Got my trans seals, and the pan gasket, so I will get those replaced and get it all ready to go back in. Once that's put back together, it's back to the house for the body repair. Making progress little by little..... | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Firewall cleaned.... (034b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 034b.jpg (230KB - 183 downloads) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | And, since many of you know not how I am.... I love the LITTLE things.... That is, to restore the individual components... More specifically, I revive, without overdone resto. A couple of examples: The distributor, partly disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, painted, and reassembled... And, the second set of pics is of the thermostatically operated flap system. To those not familiar, when the exhaust is cold, the flap stays closed, causing a build-up of heat in the intake manifold, to help avoid carb icing.... These things get stuck (mine was) from rust, and simply don't operate. In the case of mine, it was stuck in the closed position, restricting exhaust flow on the passenger side manifold. The way most "fix" this is either to break the flap away from the shaft (it's brazed on) or, to knock the shaft completely out, and weld up the hole, or the classic hammer the flap shaft open, and weld it up that way... Not good enough for me... I soaked it with PB Blaster for about 3 weeks or so, while i was rebuilding other parts of the engine. Then, after getting the arm freed up, I was faced with a broken heat coil. Staring at it for a while, it hit me.... I scrounged through my VW parts pile, locating a donor Solex carb from an old Beetle. I pulled the electric choke, smiled, thinking it just might work... I broke apart the ceter mount, exposing the bare coil spring, installed it on the shaft. I gradually shaped it to the right orientation and length, and trimmed off the excess. After that, I reinstalled the counterweight, bolted it all together, and painted it to match the manifold with VHT paint. Finally, I tested it with a heat gun. Much to my delight, it works perfectly. How's that for being anal retentive? Pics of my obsessiveness: (011b.jpg) (004b.jpg) (019b.jpg) (024b.jpg) (025b.jpg) (042b.jpg) (043b.jpg) (047b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 011b.jpg (104KB - 168 downloads) 004b.jpg (234KB - 201 downloads) 019b.jpg (203KB - 156 downloads) 024b.jpg (173KB - 218 downloads) 025b.jpg (183KB - 218 downloads) 042b.jpg (253KB - 165 downloads) 043b.jpg (202KB - 168 downloads) 047b.jpg (182KB - 173 downloads) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Today I got the seals replaced in the trans. and bolted it all back together. Just a little light dusting of paint on the surface to keep the rust and corrosion at bay. Engine is ready to install as well. Just got a little more cleaning up to do with the frame, and then it's back in. (038b.jpg) (019b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 038b.jpg (198KB - 177 downloads) 019b.jpg (227KB - 180 downloads) | ||
BarnFind57 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Finshed up the cursory cleaning of the forward frame area. Again, nothing too overboard, just trying to get a little fresh black paint on the frame and all of the suspension cleaned up. Ended up leavig the suspension and steering in it's natural non-finished state. I almost painted everything in the chassis black and contrasting metallic finishes, but am still operating under the "try not to over-restore" daily driver status. Best part is that now it's ready to accept the engine and trans, so I will have it towed in tomorrow since it's going to be nice and sunny, and get those in over the weekend. (009b.jpg) (033b.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 009b.jpg (260KB - 177 downloads) 033b.jpg (245KB - 218 downloads) | ||
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