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My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 9:25 AM (#190009)
Subject: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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There have been already many threads on this theme. Nevertheless, in a few steps I will describe why and how I realized the Electronic Ignition Conversion on my 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible. My simply and safety way may motivate many of you, owning a FWL-Car and considering as well this Upgrade. 

My Motivation: I never had any problems with the Ignition on my 1959 Dodge 361. Looking back on other Cars I owned, from time to time the point had to be re-adjusted. An Electronic Conversion would remove such problems, assures a long-term and high timing accuracy. Then, the non-mechanical, solid-state Switching is free from any chatter affecting the timing and the quality of the Ignition. This Upgrade I found really advantageous and offers only Benefits. Now, the Implementation should be at a minimum of Complexity and the System to operate instantly.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 12:16 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 12:14 PM (#190031 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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The Choices: I found two basic Units offered on the market.
1. The Pertronix Ignition System is easiest to install, because just the Plate in the Distributor has to be replaced by the magnetic Switching Module. Not any changes in the Electronic Circuit and no additional Wires or external Parts needed. The Distributor remaining the same, as well as the Vacuum Advance Unit.
2. The Mopar Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit. It consists of a complete Distributor Unit with Vacuum Advance, an Electronic Control Unit, a Wire Harness with the Connector to the Control Unit and a Ballast Resistor. All Ignition Parts except the Spark Plug Wires have to be replaced, and the Electronic Control Unit to be mounted somewhere. This System seems to be much more extensive and complex to install.



Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 12:21 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 12:25 PM (#190036 - in reply to #190031)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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My Decision: For a Mopar Car it was obvious to analyse at first the Mopar Conversion. The active Electronic Unit generate a Powerful Ignition even at lower RPMs. The Distributor Unit replaces all included items in one “move”, including new  long-life Bearing. The question to answer was what additional wires are needed, and where to mount the Electronic Unit, without getting hot in the Engines Department and not altering the aspect. With a good solution the decision in favour of the Mopar Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit was evident. I was shure to find it out and purchased the Set PN 3690427 for my 361 Engine.

Type: P3690426 for 273/318/340/360

Type: P3690427 for 361/383/400

Type: P03690428 for 423/426/440

The Basic Electronic is for all considered V8-Engines the same, as the Installation Proceeding. Only the Vacuum Advance Distributor and Timing Specs differs. These Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kits are available in Summit, Jegs, StreetPerformance and others (about USD 220), or sometimes cheaper in eBays (USD 150 up).



Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 12:57 PM




(00 Mopar Ignition Set 3687.jpg)



(01 MOPAR Ignition Set 3688.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 00 Mopar Ignition Set 3687.jpg (41KB - 208 downloads)
Attachments 01 MOPAR Ignition Set 3688.jpg (107KB - 798 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 12:35 PM (#190040 - in reply to #190036)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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The Circuit Diagram: I modified the Circuit Diagram, the Ballast Resistor to be near the Electronic Control Unit, and using the Wire Harness with the Connector for all needed interconnections. Thus, I disconnected the free Wire (green) from the Connector to be used for the Ballast Resistor. Now, all required Wires are available and together in one Harness for the Installation.

To be noticed: On the modified Circuit Diagram there is only one single Wire (blue) leading to the Starter and Ignition Switch (+12V). This Wire can be directly connected to the former (+) Wire of the Induction Coil, if the Original Ballast Resistor is being by-passed (see Pic 09). The Basic Circuit of both Diagrams are remaining the same. 



Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 4:45 PM




(02 Schematic MOPAR Electronic Ignition.jpg)



(03 Schematic 1959 Dodge Electronic Ignition SM.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 02 Schematic MOPAR Electronic Ignition.jpg (68KB - 15551 downloads)
Attachments 03 Schematic 1959 Dodge Electronic Ignition SM.jpg (97KB - 11732 downloads)
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59CRL
Posted 2009-09-24 12:51 PM (#190046 - in reply to #190040)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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Looks good.... she should fire up and run nicer now with the electronic setup.
I went with Accel, I tried Pertonix and it wouldnt work for me.
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 1:08 PM (#190049 - in reply to #190040)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Appearance: For a nice Outfit the Body of the Distributor (Aluminium) and the Vacuum Advance Unit was polished, and for better hiding the Box of the Electronic Control Unit painted in black.


Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 1:21 PM




(04 Polished Distributor Body 3695.JPG)



(05 Black Painted Electronic Box 3703.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 04 Polished Distributor Body 3695.JPG (91KB - 215 downloads)
Attachments 05 Black Painted Electronic Box 3703.jpg (123KB - 197 downloads)
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RoyalGate
Posted 2009-09-24 3:18 PM (#190066 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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Sermey,
I've converted dozens of point type and "Lean Burn" systems over to Electronic Ignition using
these conversion kits. They are easy to install, makes a clean installation and they work great.
Good Choice !!
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 4:18 PM (#190075 - in reply to #190049)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Locations: The Electronic Control Unit is mounted on the Right Front outside of the Engines Front Panel with two Scews (Pic.06). There it is protected from Engines Heat, is even cooled by the driving air. It is hardly visible as not existing, easy to mount, from Front to connect and directly to access.
The Ballast Resistor is mounted in the opposite Side, inside the Engines Compartment (Pic. 07), with the same upper Screw as used for the Electronic Control Unit.The Wire Harness goes through Front Panel and leads near the Generator Bracket to the Distributor/Ignition Coil (Pic. 08). The Length of the Harness fits exactly. Just connect according the Schematic Diagram SM.
Move all wires of the Old Ballast Resistor to one Side (Pic. 09), then it will be out of any operation, can let there for a Look as Original. Check the wire leading from this Point (comes from the Ignition Switch, before leading to the Ignition Coil) and connect it directly to the Blue Wire (“To Starter and Ignition Switch”) of the Harness. The Capacitor shown on the Induction Coil in the Schematic prevents Radio-Interference on AM.
Now, all the Wiring is done without any additional Wire in the existing Engines Harness. Mount the new Distributor in the exact same Position as before, and reassemble all other items as disassembled (Pic. 10)
.
I turned on my Engine - and nearly unbelievable - the Engine started at once and now runs as nothing had changed. Later I fine-tuned the Ignition Angle to 10 Degrees according the Instruction (11 Instruction Sheet.pdf to download).

Now: Nearly invisible Changes. Happy Electronic Driving. – SERGE- ;)



Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 5:03 PM




(06 Location Electronic Unit 3808.jpg)



(07 Location Ballast Resistor 3744.jpg)



(08 All Wire Harness 3804.jpg)



(09 Old By-Passed Ballast Resistor 3815.jpg)



(10 Mounted New Distributor Unit 3798.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 06 Location Electronic Unit 3808.jpg (87KB - 190 downloads)
Attachments 07 Location Ballast Resistor 3744.jpg (99KB - 197 downloads)
Attachments 08 All Wire Harness 3804.jpg (66KB - 182 downloads)
Attachments 09 Old By-Passed Ballast Resistor 3815.jpg (87KB - 204 downloads)
Attachments 10 Mounted New Distributor Unit 3798.jpg (100KB - 178 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 4:22 PM (#190076 - in reply to #190075)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Here the Instruction Sheet for Download. Sorry, it just doesn't work, max. 250K (has 256k).

Edited by sermey 2009-09-24 4:45 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-24 4:30 PM (#190080 - in reply to #190066)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Thank you Larry (royalgate). You always have given me good Inspirations, as for "My Dual Quad Project" I will report as soon my time allows. - SERGE -
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MOPAR-TO-YA
Posted 2009-09-25 1:28 AM (#190133 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Someone please answer some questions for me Just what does the electronic control unit do? I would think that simplification of ignition would be better. A stock distributor with centrifigal advance that you can change the advance curve on easily--A pertronix kit of your choice and a matching coil that does not need a ballast resister. Eliminates a lot of stuff and wireing. And what is the difference between the black- orange, and chrome box?.........................MO
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FURY
Posted 2009-09-25 2:03 AM (#190138 - in reply to #190133)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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....so....how is all this simpler or better than the Pertronix unit....? I'm a bit confused...
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-25 9:14 AM (#190147 - in reply to #190138)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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FURY - 2009-09-25 8:03 AM ....so....how is all this simpler or better than the Pertronix unit....? I'm a bit confused...

Good question, Steve and Glenn - a good answer? 

The Differences: 

The Pertronix Ignition System is just a magnetically activated solid-state Switch with no Electronics.. It works exactly like a set of points, with none of the faults mechanical points have.

The Mopar Electronic Ignition Kit is a really Electronic System. As the Pertronix, it has the magnetically activated solid-state Switch, Additionally, it has a Control Unit for an Active Switching Enhancement. Its Input is a Multivibrator Circuit what is triggered when opening the solid-state Switch, generating a highly improved transient Signal, this being power-boosted by the Transistor TO-3. Thus, the Transient of theVoltage applied to the Induction Coil is more accurate and mostly independent of the Engines RPM. Furthermore, all the Mechanical System is replaced by new matched items (Distributor, Vacuum Advance, Clearance-free Shaft, Sealing).

But the Mopar Electronic Ignition Kit costs about double the Pertronix Ignition System. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2009-09-25 6:08 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-25 9:30 AM (#190149 - in reply to #190133)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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MOPAR-TO-YA - 2009-09-25 7:28 . . . .A pertronix kit of your choice and a matching coil that does not need a ballast resister. Eliminates a lot of stuff and wireing. . . .

Here some comments to the

Ballast Resistor: This electrical Device, as mostly all serial-mounted Resistors do, limits to a maximum Current at a given Voltage. Thus, looking at the Schematic. “Ballast” may sound confusing, because it is not connected as a Load to Ground.
In the static State, just before starting the Engine, the Ignition Coil loads only by its internal DC-Resistance, given by the Length and Diameter of the Wire. The Value of this in Addition to the Ballast Resistor determines the Peak Current, say with 1 Ohm at 12V is 12 A (Dissipation 144W).
On the other side, at running Engine, these two Resistors (Ballast + DC Coil) reduce the average Voltage on the Induction Coil from 12V to 9 – 10V. At higher Resistor Values the Voltage can drop to 7V or less, then the maximum Spark Voltage will drop too and not allow a functional sparking, especially at wider Spark Plug Gaps.
On an Electronic Circuit a third Resistance has to be added: the Residual Resistance of the Power Transistor in “On” State. For this reason the Ballast Resistor of an Electronic Ignition has to be smaller, has its appropriate Value and is included in the Kit.
On the market there are Ignition Coils with internal (Ballast-) Resistor, not needing an external Ballast Resistor. These Ignition Coils have just the same Windings (for same Induction), but uses a thinner Wire for the Coil resulting in an higher DC-Resistance Value. - SERGE -.

 



Edited by sermey 2009-09-25 6:06 PM
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wbower3
Posted 2009-09-25 3:18 PM (#190179 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!

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So, which coil do you reccomend be used? I have the same unit on the LA318 in my '38 Dodge, and I have another unit to install on the 270 Hemi in my '55.

If I use the coil with the built in resistance, can I delete the separate ballast resistor?

Walt
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2009-09-25 5:05 PM (#190203 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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Nice write up.

2 things;
- I would tossed the orange ECrapU far away and bought an aftermarket ECU.
- Scale down the pics to 800 pixels wide so your text can be read better without having to scroll left to right all the time. Not everyone has 24" screens

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FURY
Posted 2009-09-25 5:59 PM (#190216 - in reply to #190147)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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After reading all that...I am even more confused.... What is wrong with a Pertronix that can be installed invisibly in 5 minutes, and starts the engine and runs perfectly every day....? What am I missing? I have experience with the Pertronix, and have not seen any drawbacks to it. Please advise.
Glenn.
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-25 6:32 PM (#190218 - in reply to #190216)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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FURY - 2009-09-25 11:59 PM After reading all that...I am even more confused.... What is wrong with a Pertronix that can be installed invisibly in 5 minutes, and starts the engine and runs perfectly every day....? What am I missing? I have experience with the Pertronix, and have not seen any drawbacks to it. Please advise. Glenn.

Nothing at all is wrong with Pertronix, Glenn. In the contrary: a more simpler Installation is hardly possible. I guess Pertronix has been much more used then the Mopar Kit. The reason why I showed how I did it my way. The Mopar Kit has, as listed in "Differences", some more Gadgets, for most as you not missing at all. But it is a Mopar Device for a Mopar Car. - SERGE - ;)

 



Edited by sermey 2009-09-25 6:40 PM
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FURY
Posted 2009-09-25 6:57 PM (#190223 - in reply to #190218)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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...But my original part number correct Fury Autolite distributor is a MoPar device for a MoPar too, and it looks just like it did the day it rolled down the assembly line, only with the bullet proof maintenance free bonus of no deteriorating points or condenser inside the factory distributor. In fact the ballast resistor does not even need to be used, thereby avoiding yet another unreliable component which regularly breaks down. (I paid so much for my original Autolite ballast resistor that I have chosen to leave it in place anyway, but it is not required.) The Pertronix high output coil with internal ballast locates in the same location as the factory Autolite, and is exactly the same size/dimensions/color as the assembly line unit except for the lack of the green screen printed Autolite coil specifications, which would not necessarily be visible depending on how the coil was rotated/installed in the retaining bracket on the assembly line anyway. But if I were to screen print those markings back on this new coil, it would be indistinguishable from concours factory to a car show judge.
Still not seeing the advantage to all that other gadgetry and incorrect wiring, holes drilled, expense, extra work to end up with a car that starts and runs as good, yet now looks totally incorrect...
I must be missing something surely...?
Glenn.

Edited by FURY 2009-09-25 6:59 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-26 6:06 AM (#190258 - in reply to #190203)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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BigBlockMopar - 2009-09-25 11:05 PM Nice write up. 2 things; - I would tossed the orange ECrapU far away and bought an aftermarket ECU. - Scale down the pics to 800 pixels wide so your text can be read better without having to scroll left to right all the time. Not everyone has 24" screens

- In your point of view I can agree with your statement.

- Thank you for the useful hint. I checked out and found that by error I set the double Width, sorry. Usually I had taken care to keep always the same size of the Pics.

If the Administrator/Moderator allows me to edit my posts I will resize all these Pictures. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2009-09-26 6:10 AM
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dukeboy
Posted 2009-09-26 10:22 AM (#190273 - in reply to #190258)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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I too have run the Mopar Electronic kit and haven't had that much luck with the "Orange" boxes either...Must be gettin' them from cheaper supplier or something, anyway, I ran the MSD set up with a rev limiter and by far, it has to be the simpler of the two as far as hook up and reliability goes. I hid the control box under the battery tray and I have to actually point it out to folks, as they don't even see it...The advantage Pertronix has over any other kit is Of course SIMPLICITY of install...The average NON-car guy can install it and feel good that he actually accomplished something...

The drawbacks to the Pertronix kit are you HAVE to have a DUAL POINT distributor (If running the old cast iron dizzy), or you HAVE TO convert to what they call a "Chrysler" dizzy, which is nothing but the ALUMINUM one like pictured in SERGE's pics...One other disadvantage to Pertronix is while you've converted the ignition to electronic, the old, wornout, have to oil distributor is STILL IN THE ENGINE and is 50 plus years old....With the Chrysler, OR the MSD, you can hook it to either dizzy and it works and provides a MUCH hotter spark as well as mulitple sparks per revolution..

Edited by dukeboy 2009-09-26 10:24 AM
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-26 11:33 AM (#190279 - in reply to #190273)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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dukeboy - 2009-09-26 4:22 PM I too have run the Mopar Electronic kit and haven't had that much luck with the "Orange" boxes either...

This Orange Box is sealed around, even not sensitive on Water. The Housing of the TO-3 Power Transistor is its Collector and connected to the Induction Coil. Can only be damaged when applying directly to +12V, without a Ballast Resistor. The Input is protected by the Waterproof 5-Pole Plug. No way to damage, except already not working. Your Location under the Battery Tray is as well a good Option, then really invisible, but in an hotter Ambient. Putting there the Ballast Resistor too the Wire Harness of the Kit would just be long enough to the Distributor and Induction Coil. Another nice Solution. - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2009-09-26 11:37 AM
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59CRL
Posted 2009-09-26 5:46 PM (#190303 - in reply to #190216)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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FURY - 2009-09-25 5:59 PM

After reading all that...I am even more confused.... What is wrong with a Pertronix that can be installed invisibly in 5 minutes, and starts the engine and runs perfectly every day....? What am I missing? I have experience with the Pertronix, and have not seen any drawbacks to it. Please advise.
Glenn.


No drawbacks, im using a kit from Accel which is just like the Pertronix, it just signals to coil to fire.... I like them
because they are easier to install and they fit under the stock cap, so your car still looks stock.... if you care about the looks anyway.
Then you can add a nice chrome 40K coil if you want too. Nothing wrong with a simpler unit. If it works then keep on
cruising!

Edited by 59CRL 2009-09-26 5:47 PM
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FURY
Posted 2009-09-26 7:26 PM (#190319 - in reply to #190273)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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dukeboy - 2009-09-27 2:22 AM
The drawbacks to the Pertronix kit are you HAVE to have a DUAL POINT distributor (If running the old cast iron dizzy), or you HAVE TO convert to what they call a "Chrysler" dizzy, which is nothing but the ALUMINUM one like pictured in SERGE's pics...

Why/how is this a drawback, if you already have a factory twin point distributor...?????

One other disadvantage to Pertronix is while you've converted the ignition to electronic, the old, wornout, have to oil distributor is STILL IN THE ENGINE and is 50 plus years old....With the Chrysler, OR the MSD, you can hook it to either dizzy and it works and provides a MUCH hotter spark as well as mulitple sparks per revolution..


Why/how is this a drawback...??? There is not much to do to "rebuild" a factory distributor, even for a "non-car guy".

Edited by FURY 2009-09-26 7:28 PM
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MOPAR-TO-YA
Posted 2009-09-27 2:35 AM (#190353 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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Serge--Thank you for the information you have provided., but I am somewhat thick headed. Most Mopar guys that are into performance- use the set up you describe- with various electronic control boxes and several different ballast resisters. And many of them are confused on what combination works the best. One of my friends uses one kind of ballast resister for every day and changes to another for drag racing. I don't question him because he spent a lot of time figgering that out. Seems that to make any changes to your advance curve and anything eles you want to change--you have to get a whole different control box??? I am the round peg in a squre hole world I guess.
I am building a 64 Dodge 413 with 4 speed--Street and Strip I want it to look just as it would if I had built the car in the mid 60's (part of the reason it is a 413 instead of 440 engine.) For the ignition, I want it to look like points style , but with late technology that can not be seen. I also want to eliminate most of the clutter and wireing on the fenders and firewall. There won't even be any heater hoses. If I can get a Pertronics set up that performs well enough, that would be ideal. I have thought about a MSD with the contol box hidden under the dash, but some top notch drag racers tell me you don't need that expensive box to make it run hard. (under 6000 rpm and 10 1/2 compression)........................MO
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dukeboy
Posted 2009-09-27 2:50 AM (#190355 - in reply to #190353)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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MSD, contrary to popular belief helps EVERYTHING run cleaner, better, and more power....You don't HAVE to have a race car to run MSD...In fact, it's prolly gonna run a little more rich with Pertronix than MSD....C'mon Mo, you can tell me the real reason you are running that 413 over the 440....I know, you got it cheap and the 440 woulda set you back another $500 or so right? Or was it that the 440 wouldna sounded as "Period correct" as the 413? You want it to run right? coulda had another 27 cubes that can't be seen as well as cheaper parts too boot....

Edited by dukeboy 2009-09-27 3:05 AM
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dukeboy
Posted 2009-09-27 2:55 AM (#190356 - in reply to #190319)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959



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FURY - 2009-09-26 7:26 PM

dukeboy - 2009-09-27 2:22 AM
The drawbacks to the Pertronix kit are you HAVE to have a DUAL POINT distributor (If running the old cast iron dizzy), or you HAVE TO convert to what they call a "Chrysler" dizzy, which is nothing but the ALUMINUM one like pictured in SERGE's pics...

Why/how is this a drawback, if you already have a factory twin point distributor...?????

One other disadvantage to Pertronix is while you've converted the ignition to electronic, the old, wornout, have to oil distributor is STILL IN THE ENGINE and is 50 plus years old....With the Chrysler, OR the MSD, you can hook it to either dizzy and it works and provides a MUCH hotter spark as well as mulitple sparks per revolution..


Why/how is this a drawback...??? There is not much to do to "rebuild" a factory distributor, even for a "non-car guy".


Well, it wouldn't be for a factory dual point distributor now would it? I was refering to the "NON-Car guys" that are buying these kits and thinking they fit into ANY MOPAR DISTRIBUTOR....The ONLY time you EVER hear of Anybody posting anything refering to Pertronix, it's when they've bought it and it WILL NOT RUN RIGHT, OR WON'T FIT THEIR DISTRIBUTOR......

Well Glenn, you ever tried to tell this bunch about rebuilding anything? I tried with machining parts on a d@mn BRAKE LATHE and they got lost....I can just see them trying to rebuild and curve a factory cast iron distributor.....Hell, in the above post, we got one here stating he wanted to run the 413 cause of the "Period correct" thing, while he will run the Pertronix inside the distributor and has no issues with "Period correct"???

Edited by dukeboy 2009-09-27 3:07 AM
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MOPAR-TO-YA
Posted 2009-09-27 3:22 AM (#190361 - in reply to #190355)
Subject: Re: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


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dukeboy - 2009-09-27 1:50 AM

Well then, Mo, You coulda went with the 440 and the extra cubes can't be seen? The four bolt heads wre a thing of the past in '64....MSD, contrary to popular belief helps EVERYTHING run cleaner, better, and more power....You don't HAVE to have a race car to run MSD...In fact, it's prolly gonna run a little more rich with Pertronix than MSD....
Who said anything about 4 bolt heads? (i assume you are talking about the valve covers) by 1964, they used the 6 bolt. I know they didn't use 413 in regular passenger cars, But in 1965or 66 I would have used a highway cop engine- more affordable than a 426 wedge. My engine has 413 stamped on the pad and 413 is what I want , even tho I have to have pistons custom made.- This engine will NOT be a max wedge intake and exhaust. In fact it will not have headers--every body has a 440, And I will really enjoy shutting down a comparable 440 ...............................MO
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Ray
Posted 2009-09-27 1:13 PM (#190389 - in reply to #190009)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


Expert

Posts: 1492
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Location: Maple Grove, Minnesota
Sermey,

Thanks for the work you invested in explaining details and providing the photos.

I chose the Pertronix conversion because of cost and original look. I am always concerned that it will fail on the road. Reflecting on the stupid stares I got when I tried to buy one locally makes me want to buy a backup unit to carry with me. When I add the price of a backup and the rebuilt distributor I bought ($35), I am at the price of the Mopar unit.
For now, I carry the original points with me. At least I can limp home.

I feel that many elements of this hobby come down to a compromise for me and I am happy. I have a driver that will provide unlimited potential for a lifetime of projects and fun.
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sermey
Posted 2009-09-27 1:14 PM (#190390 - in reply to #190353)
Subject: RE: My Electronic Ignition Conversion DODGE 1959


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1019
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Location: SWITZERLAND

MOPAR-TO-YA: . . . use the set up you describe- with various electronic control boxes and several different ballast resisters. And many of them are confused on what combination works the best . . .

 used Type: P3690427 for 361/383/400 as is. For other Engines Type: P3690426 for 273/318/340/360 and for your Engine Type: P03690428 for 423/426/440. These three Types are optimised for the corresponding Mopar Engines, including the Induction Coil.

There are many guys here much better familiar in Ignition Systems than me, thus i didn't do any experiments and installed all according the Instructions - and it works perfectly. - SERGE -

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