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 Removing A Complete Dash - 1957 PlymouthJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209  | Hi guys, I have never removed a dash from a pre 60's car and need to pull mine to replace all of the wiring (57 Suburban, 301 poly/2 speed auto trans, non AC, total stripper) . I'd like to remove it as complete as possible without removing anymore items that required to get it out of the car intact. Do any of you have a procedure list? It would be very helpful. I have already removed the inside windshield surround, the top screws under the windshield glass, and the two larger lower bolts that cradle the ends. The dash is loose but won't come out so some mining underneath for hidden attaching bolts, cables, and such is in order. Thanks!  | ||
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| bad58mike |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1150   Location: Southern California | I've done this task, theres no real order just be patient fish through everything top and underneath, take pictures of stuff everything where needed to reassemble properly especially where the wires and plugs go into the guage cluster. If I remember correctly you will have to undo the bolts underneath the steering wheel as well and push down the colum alittle so you can free the dash, also you may have to take out the front bench seat as well to get it out, the main screws to remove are along the top end of the dash the two side bolts and the two at the base of the steering wheel and your good once you remove all wires and pushbutton tranny box from underneath, hope this helps good luck  | ||
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| bad58mike |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1150 Location: Southern California | |||
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| Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | |||
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| Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | |||
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| bad58mike |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1150 Location: Southern California | Its easier at the buttons, its a little bit of a task but better so you do not disconnect from the trans. first remove the buttons by removing the face plate then with a flashlight and this is why I mean you will need to take the front bench seat out so you can lay comfortably on the floor to get under tha dash so you can work. Anyhow get under th dash and if I remember correctly there will be 3 or 4 small nuts or screws holding the push button box to the dash from behind the dash carefully remove these and you can pull the push button box down away from the dash and your home free | ||
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| Fins/413 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 530  Location: Wake Forest, NC | |||
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| FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | There's always more than one way to skin a cat of course, but I found it easier to disconnect the trans cable at the trans end rather than trying to release it at the dash end. That's just me though, I hate working upside down under a dash. And you shouldn't have to remove the switches to remove the dash. Leave them intact to make it easier to see how the wires are routed to them. I would love to see some pics of all this if you have taken any. I made a very simple dash rotisserie for mine, it made it so much easier to spin it over single handed to work on the back without damaging anything on the front. Just 2 shelf brackets, some angle aluminum and some timber. Glenn. Edited by FURY 2009-06-11 6:04 PM (Dashpad-Rotisserie#4-16-01-02.jpg) Attachments ----------------  Dashpad-Rotisserie#4-16-01-02.jpg (102KB - 517 downloads) | ||
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| catman |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 781 Location: Montreal, Canada | Fury, A dash rotisserie? Sounds great !!!!!!! Do you have any pictures of your rotisserie? Got a plan you can share? A list of material? I am pretty sure a lot of member would be interest in such information. Thanks. | ||
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| Scott Smith Harms |
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Veteran Posts: 209 | Well I got it out, I went with the remove the shift pod method, I feel like a contortionist after that one! Should be interesting re-installing it as well. So, after I got it out I discovered some broken dash vents....bummer, anyone have any spares laying around? I need to send my wiper motor out for a rebuild while it's exposed and I plan to pull the windshield as well to address any hidden issues, may as well now that the dash is out. Thanks for all the help guys!  (Dash vents.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Dash vents.jpg (20KB - 219 downloads) | ||
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| FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | |||
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| eScore |
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Regular Posts: 56 Location: Washington, PA | |||
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| Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | eScore - 2017-04-06 11:11 AM Can either of you guys get me a close up picture of the parking brake light on your plymouth? Sorry, don't have the info you need. Someone might come along,........... but you are posting to a 8 year old thread, I think you would have better luck posting a new post question in the appropriate location.  | ||
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| eScore |
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Regular Posts: 56 Location: Washington, PA | |||
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| FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | |||
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| FURY |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 Location: Auckland, New Zealand. | Photos attached of the handbrake warning light on my 57 Fury (on and off), and also of my buddy John Parker's 58 Fury. Glenn. (Handbrake light GB#2-small.jpg) (Handbrake light GB-small.jpg) (Handbrake light,58Fury-Parker.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Handbrake light GB#2-small.jpg (205KB - 194 downloads) Handbrake light GB-small.jpg (217KB - 177 downloads) Handbrake light,58Fury-Parker.jpg (36KB - 179 downloads) | ||
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