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| Anybody got a decent one?
Big M has a couple, but they're all equally worn-out.
Really, I guess all I need is the bushing...
Kanter's probably has exactly what I need...
Meanwhile, if I could get the entire assembly on the cheap, I'd rather do that.
Thanks!
-NM
Edited by Nathan D. Manning 2009-02-26 8:42 AM
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | napa will have the bushing , like 20 bucks !i just ordered one-------------------------------------------------------------later |
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| I had no idea that I could get that from NAPA. That's a big relief!
Having owned ForwardLook cars for more than a decade now, I've grown accustomed to finding NOTHING at most of my local parts stores.
Thanks, Chuck!!!
-NM |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Kingston Springs , TN | Here's a 60 Chrysler 300 parts list available from NAPA; you'll find the bushing kit number for your NYer here....
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/napaparts/fparts.htm
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Expert 5K+
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Location: northern germany | you probably need just the bushing, 60 chrysler idler arms don't wear. do NOT replace with the common RUBBER bushing (napa,kanter,etc) these give lots of vertical play even when new. any vertical play translates to steering wheel play! replace with ballbearing kit or nylon bushing.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-02-26 8:11 AM
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| 1960fury - 2009-02-26 8:08 AM
you probably need just the bushing, 60 chrysler idler arms don't wear. do NOT replace with the common RUBBER bushing (napa,kanter,etc) these give lots of vertical play even when new. any vertical play translates to steering wheel play! replace with ballbearing kit or nylon bushing.
So... Sid.
You're saying NOT to get the bushing from NAPA or Kanter's...
Where should I go to get this nylon bushing or ballbearing kit instead???
Thanks,
-NM
Edited by Nathan D. Manning 2009-02-26 8:42 AM
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Location: northern germany | Nathan D. Manning - 2009-02-26 8:16 AM
So... Sid.
You're saying NOT to get the bushing from NAPA or Kanter's...
Where should I go to get this nylon bushing or ballbearing kit instead???
Thanks,
-NM
i believe Rare Parts has the greaseable ball bearing kits and they are on ebay regularly. theres a kit on ebay right now. they usually sell for $10-$20, but they last forever.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-02-26 9:08 AM
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Location: Netherlands | Just before I bought my own lathe recently I had a friend of mine make 2 nylon bushings for my '57, but bushing size for a '60 Chrysler should be the same imo.
As said, nylon/teflon bushings are the way to go if you want a steady motion of the idler-arm.
Specs (in MM):
*The dotted line says 'cut' in Dutch. This was to help turning the bushings a little easier for the guy who did it for me, but you only need the specs of one half ofcourse.
I reused the original inner steel shaft so the bracket on the car doesn't squash and binds the bushing.
The inner hole inside the nylon bushing should be drilled slightly larger (say 16mm or 5/8") so the steel collar slides in easier.
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Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Herman--great idea-where do you get nylon stock to lathe turn the bushing?................MO |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | as that might seem to be a great idea , you might think of this-----------------------------what other part is going to take up the flexabilty of the idler arm ?-------------------just a thought , i'm sure stiffning will work ?---------------------later |
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Location: northern germany | 60 dart - 2009-02-27 8:59 AM
as that might seem to be a great idea , you might think of this-----------------------------what other part is going to take up the flexabilty of the idler arm ?-------------------just a thought , i'm sure stiffning will work ?---------------------later
if you use the ballbearing kit, there will be no flexability anymore. if you are referring to the idler arm and not the bushing, it does not flex and is strong enough. and PLEASE NEVER weld on idler/pitman arms, center link,spindles, etc!
i guess the idler arm BRACKET flexes before the idler arm would under abnormal load. anyway, the load on idler arm/bracket during normal driving is not big enough to make either part flex.
ps the 1957-61 full size NOS MOPAR idler arm kit just sold for only 14.50 on ebay. most ball bearing kits on ebay are aftermarket and not as good as the mopar kit.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-02-27 10:10 AM
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | ps the 1957-61 full size NOS MOPAR idler arm kit just sold for only 14.50 on ebay------------------------------i don't know how i missed that one---------------------a week ago i paid 38 with shipping and 59 for a complete arm----------------------how do i keep missing these cheap prices------------------------back to the flex of the idler arm . why is it always or almost always that the idler wears out first , simple , it's the weak link in the steering and for a reason . you can't have all those ball joints connected to each other with a out a weak link built in or all the joints are going to take a beating . here's a question for ya . if the idler was designed to be solid as in using a nylon bushing , why was a rubber one used , because the idler arm has to have longitude and lattitude movement , just a step from being a round ball bushing . i know you guys have been under your car . haven't you ever pushed up , down , around on your new idler arm , it moves all over---------------------to absorb excessive movement of all the other joints , you know , from the bumps and pot holes of every highway . you use a nylon bushing on an idler arm and you front end is going to take a beating . how can it be any more logical ?--------------------------------------------------------later |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I do believe that the idler arm does not have a perfect crescent path which is totally linear. I think that just as Chuck says it takes up other forces as well, for instance flexing up and down slightly with the suspension movements as well as being forced in an arch up and down when using full right or left steering. That is one reason why its made out of rubber, the other reason might be vibration transmit up to the frame/subframe.
Changing the idler arm to nylon bushing will of course work, but it will not flex and the vibrations will be transmitted to the car. The bending forces that the rubber bushing equalized will instead be taken up by other parts of the steering joints with most probably shorter lifetime for them as a result.
I could think of using nylon bushings, but not ball bearings - still the original type rubber bushing would be my choice. |
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| Thanks for all the help, fellas.
After much thought, I believe I will go with the NAPA rubber bushing after all.
I'd rather have a little play in the wheel as to risk other steering components takin' a beating.
Not to mention the fact that the plain ol' rubber bushing will be more cost-effective.
(And easier to find than I first thought... There's a NAPA less than a half-mile from my house!)
I appreciate the input.
-NM
Edited by Nathan D. Manning 2009-02-27 1:38 PM
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Location: northern germany | 60 dart - 2009-02-27 12:20 PM
back to the flex of the idler arm . why is it always or almost always that the idler wears out first , simple , it's the weak link in the steering and for a reason . you can't have all those ball joints connected to each other with a out a weak link built in or all the joints are going to take a beating . here's a question for ya . if the idler was designed to be solid as in using a nylon bushing , why was a rubber one used , because the idler arm has to have longitude and lattitude movement , just a step from being a round ball bushing . i know you guys have been under your car . haven't you ever pushed up , down , around on your new idler arm , it moves all over---------------------to absorb excessive movement of all the other joints , you know , from the bumps and pot holes of every highway . you use a nylon bushing on an idler arm and you front end is going to take a beating . how can it be any more logical ?--------------------------------------------------------later
i don't get it. an idler arm is not supposed to have vertical play and it is not stressed by steering movement. if you don't believe install the ball bearing kit, disconnect the inner tie rod ends and you can easily move the center link from side to side by hand that is because there are 2 BALL JOINTS in the center link AND since there are 2 BALL JOINTS per side on the tie rods it is IMPOSSIBLE that the up and down movement of the control arms stresses the idler arm. simple to understand.
wears out first? my ball bearing bearing is still like new after 20 years almost daily use. QUESTION: is there any flexible bushing for the pitman arm? of course not. little up and down movement of the idler arm means lots of steering wheel free play=NOT GOOD. don't you agree?
when you brake it puts load on the idler arm bushing, this can or, VERY likely, will change the toe in to toe OUT with a RUBBER bushing, very bad and dangerous it makes the car pull to either side (often blamed on the brakes).
with a soft rubber idler arm bushing it is IMPOSSIBLE to adjust the toe in precisely.
again, up and down play of the idler arm means play in the steering and unsteady toe in setting. not good. therefore mopar upgraded to ball bearing bushings in july of 1960. as of 7-13-60 idler arm rubber bushings on mopars were obsolete. according to a service bulletin 57-60 idler arms should be serviced with the new ball bearing replacement kit. the crappy rubber bushing is now an aftermarket thing because its cheaper.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-02-27 6:22 PM
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 7-13-60bulletin.jpg (89KB - 124 downloads)
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | honestly where can i buy one . i'll try it-------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: Netherlands | I agree, a good solid bushing will maintain good steering-component alignment. 'Sloppy' rubber bushings are usually just a cost or comfort compromise. They don't help the suspension giving a better ride.
http://www.carquestchassistraining.com/sus_idler.htm
MOPAR-TO-YA - 2009-02-27 1:16 AM
Herman--great idea-where do you get nylon stock to lathe turn the bushing?................MO
Just look for nylon/teflon 'round bar' or 'round stock' on Google or Ebay.
Very easy to find.
Edited by BigBlockMopar 2009-02-27 7:27 PM
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| Nathan D. Manning - 2009-02-27 1:37 PM
Thanks for all the help, fellas.
After much thought, I believe I will go with the NAPA rubber bushing after all.
I'd rather have a little play in the wheel as to risk other steering components takin' a beating.
Not to mention the fact that the plain ol' rubber bushing will be more cost-effective.
(And easier to find than I first thought... There's a NAPA less than a half-mile from my house!)
I appreciate the input.
-NM
I just replaced my idler arm bushing, I ordered mine through autozone part number is IB5200
Go here......
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categ...
Only costs $17.99
You will need a bolt of 3 1/2 inches long, 1/2 by 13, if you are going with a new bolt.
I just replaced mine, got it finished last night and took my ride out today, made a big difference since
mine was completely worn out. I had to cut out my old bolt with a hacksaw and a grinder. It was
rusted in really bad. I used a 1/2 drive socket on it and broke off the head, so I had to drill out that
part.... you will tighten the bolt to 60 foot pounds and make sure the bracket stays 2 1/4 inch wide
when you tighten it down. Mine came out fine. Good luck, it isnt that bad when you get the bolt out
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Location: Western New York | Would this be a bearing upgrade kit?
http://www.justsuspension.com/catalog/product/view/id/24099/s/idler...
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No, that wouldnt work at all, go with the bushing I listed, I installed it and it works fine. |
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Location: northern germany |
i believe it is. |
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Location: northern germany | 59CRL - 2009-04-10 1:15 AM
No, that wouldnt work at all, go with the bushing I listed, I installed it and it works fine.
if this is a rubber bushing. no, not good. please read the entire thread.
Edited by 1960fury 2009-04-10 10:49 AM
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Idler Arm Question - 60 Chrysler
