Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (2)

4. The control line: Searching for the shortest line to the dashboard I found best to pass behind the hood hinge, this as well for the driver side. I modified the shaft of a conical drilling tool to fit a 1/4" adapter (12). With some 1/4" extensions I could easy widen the hole up to 20mm to fit a rubber protector, where the fixing plug of the interior isolation was previously removed (13). Now the control wires behind the hood hinge are much shorter, hardly visible and in a heat protected place (14).
(will be continued)

Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 4:28 AM

(09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg)

(10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg)

(11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg)

(12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg)

(13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg)

(14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg (95KB - 891 downloads)
10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg (55KB - 890 downloads)
11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg (133KB - 834 downloads)
12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg (64KB - 920 downloads)
13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg (67KB - 878 downloads)
14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg (71KB - 921 downloads)

Power Window Connectors:

(01 - Single connector soldered.jpg)

(02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg)

(03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg)

(04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg)

(05 - Connectors mounted.jpg)

(06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg)

(07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg)

01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 921 downloads)

02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 894 downloads)

03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 923 downloads)

04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 878 downloads)

05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 854 downloads)

06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 1055 downloads)

07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 874 downloads)

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3)

6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18).

Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).

On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24).

(wiil be continued)

 

Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM

(15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg)

(16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg)

(17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg)

(18 - Fixing the glass.jpg)

(19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg)

(20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg)

(21 - Crimping the wire.jpg)

(22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg)

(23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg)

(24 - All control wires attached.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 892 downloads)
16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 866 downloads)
17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 851 downloads)
18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 876 downloads)
19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 901 downloads)
20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 881 downloads)
21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 847 downloads)
22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 944 downloads)
23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 870 downloads)
24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 916 downloads)

Here how as I did all parts  to be rechromed on my car:

1. Disassemble all items to single parts

2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal.

3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.

4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration.

5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.

6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02).

When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become.

To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.

 

 

Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM

(01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg)

(02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 836 downloads)
02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 1047 downloads)

This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well?

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4)

Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.  – SERGE -      

(25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg)

(26 - Left side mirror control.jpg)

(27 - Right side mirror control.jpg)

(28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg)

(29 - Mounted bullets.jpg)

(30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg)

25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 864 downloads)

26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 903 downloads)

27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 868 downloads)

28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 917 downloads)

29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 862 downloads)

30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 907 downloads)

Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible!
Grind the washer, flat on one side of its diameter, from D20mm to 18.5mm (or to d3.5mm distance to inner diameter) (02). Then, with a self-tapping stainless pan head screw (D2.85mm x 5.5mm), the Nylon washer can be fixed on the bezel (03). Due to the asymmetric grinded surface on one side, and to the geometric shape of the bezel on the other side, the washer cannot turn around and remains fixed, but still being flexible for mounting (03). Because of the originally uncentered threads of screw on the bezel, the Nylon washers have not the equal length, but this doesn't influence the function at all (04). A perfect Head Lamp Bezel you can see here:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=34070&start=10
 
When needed, this is an instantly, simple and rustfree solution, and not scratching the paint when assembling.  - SERGE -

To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow..

(01 - Missing Clips.jpg)

(02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg)

(03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg)

(04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg)

01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 887 downloads)

02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 812 downloads)

03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 854 downloads)

04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 837 downloads)

^{Soft Front Styling: Supplement to  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144}

^{I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid.} 

(3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg)

(3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg)

(3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg)

3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 845 downloads)

3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 865 downloads)

3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 856 downloads)

Soft Front Styling 2:
Here again: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design.

Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09).

This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance!  - SERGE -        

N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here.

(01 - Original Position.jpg)

(02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg)

(03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg)

(04 - Distances-washer.jpg)

(05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)

(06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)

(07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)

(08 - Moved - Right View.jpg)

(09 - Moved - Side View.jpg)

01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 812 downloads)

02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 836 downloads)

03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 847 downloads)

04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 851 downloads)

05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 830 downloads)

06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 831 downloads)

07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 845 downloads)

08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 847 downloads)

09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 864 downloads)

Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
As all parts, including the beamer lining, are related to the main housing, no post-readjustment of the beamer will be needed when centered. The main unit has just to be moved toward the center position (03). To get the single head lamp unit adjustable the three fixing holes have to be enlarged to 6mm dia, or grinded to enable the needed shift. For the illustrated case here, this was not sufficient. Because the border of the main housing prevented to extend the fixing wholes as needed, this had to be done on the car-body side. I inserted riveting nuts M5 according the displacement. The aperture for the lamp unit on the car-body had as well to be grinded accordingly (04). I cut all M5 threads in the body, for easy inserting the stainless Alen screw M5 inside the assembly (05). Then I used the opportunity to give the glass-ring a soft polish (06).
Fix the lamp unit just to remain still movable. The glass-ring, as well the head lamp bezel, now have to be pre-fixed as reference for centering. When centered "by eye", remove again the head lamp bezel to have access to the fixing screws M5. With the final tightening and the re-mounted head lamp bezel the proceeding for this lamp is terminated (07). Of course, the head lamp bezel has always to be in the correct, aligned position to the fender. 
Now the head lamp assembly is finally where it should be (08).  -- SERGE –

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM

(01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg)

(02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg)

(03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg)

(04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg)

(05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg)

(06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg)

(07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg)

(08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 829 downloads)
02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 810 downloads)
03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 830 downloads)
04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 854 downloads)
05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 860 downloads)
06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 841 downloads)
07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 865 downloads)
08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 819 downloads)

Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
First remove backseat for easier handling. On the swivel seat, just rasp on each side near the both hinges, where the backrest is stopped, about 4.5mm deep (2). In back position the seat should fit on both sides (3). The angle then will increase from about 97deg to 103deg (90 + 13) (4).
Now, simply by a minor “surgical operation”, sitting in the car feels more relaxing and comfortable (5).  - SERGE -    

To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.

(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)

(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)

(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)

(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)

(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)

1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 816 downloads)

2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 844 downloads)

3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 826 downloads)

4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 823 downloads)

5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 809 downloads)

Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
To a modern radio only one of these antennas should be connected, the second antenna, as stated, to the original MF- radio, or when removed or not working, just left unconnected.
My car has two radio receivers: the original radio type 857, (MF range “5 – 16”) located in the center of the dashboard (6), the loudspeaker as well on top center dashboard (*). The other multi-band stereo receiver with musicassette player and remote controle is hidden in the glove box. (7), the 6 loudspeakers are on both front bottom sides and on the rear.
 Accordingly there are two separate antenna cables from the dual antennas, both along the right side under the sill plate to the radios. The rear left antenna leads to the original radio, the line here  is longer and less loss-sensitive at lower RF-signals, the rear right antenna goes to the modern radio needing a shorter cable, with low capacity as used today.
Now, both radios work independently, even simultaneously, without any interference and fading (8).  – SERGE –    

(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM

(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)

(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)

(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)

(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)

(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)

(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)

(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 809 downloads)
2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 852 downloads)
3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 854 downloads)
4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 817 downloads)
5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 881 downloads)
6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 846 downloads)
7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 832 downloads)
8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 817 downloads)

Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
Cut on both sides of the lower seat hinge in the upper end a thread of M6 and insert a headless Allen screw of 10mm length (6).
Now the modified seatback angle (7) can be re-set to its original position (8) by compensating the rasped 4.5mm with the screw. Or you can adjust the angle to a minor amount to your best comfort (9).  - SERGE -

N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.

Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM

(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)

(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)

(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)

(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)

Attachments
----------------
6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 829 downloads)
7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 771 downloads)
8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 753 downloads)
9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 839 downloads)

FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)

Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -

Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
I sacrificed various samples of micro-switches because their body was not resistant to fuel (01). Then I applied a simple way to get a cursor controlled contact, to switch ON a LED before the fuel tank is empty.
I used a copper plated board (PCB) as used in electronics. Then separated the copper plating in two sectors by grinding, one side A soldering to the ground and fixing, the other side B leading to the LED by a separate (black) wire. The hand-made cursor is soldered to the turning axis of the variable resistor (02). It needs an additional pad, very well sealed to the fuel (3). Inside, the wire is soldered (4). Just before the fuel tank is empty, the cursor grounds the LED to switch it ON. The other pad of the LED is connected to +5V (regulator), over a resistor of 180 – 470Ohm to fix the brightness.

Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car.  – SERGE -

N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.

(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)

(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)

(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)

(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)

(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)

(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)

01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 846 downloads)

02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 824 downloads)

03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 839 downloads)

04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 833 downloads)

05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 799 downloads)

06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 807 downloads)

Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Diagonal Type 225/75/14”
DW = 355.6mm : [Diameter of Wheel (DW)14": 14 x 25.4mm= 355.6mm (1" = 25.4mm)]
HT = 168.75mm :[Height of the Tire (HT): 225mm x 75% = 168.75mm]
OD = 693.1mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): DW + (2 x HT) = 355.6mm + 337.5mm = 693.1mm (or 27.3")]
CC = 2176mm : [Circumference (CC): OD x 3.14 (pi) = 693.1mm x 3.14 = 2176.334 mm (or 85.7")]

Radial Type 235/70/15”
DW = 381mm : [Diameter of the Wheel (DW)15": DW = 15 x 25.4mm= 381mm]
HT = 164.5mm : [Height of the Tire (HT): HT = 235mm x 70% = 164.5mm]
OD = 710mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): OD = DW + (2 x HT) = 381mm + 329mm = 710mm (or 27.9")]
Overall Diameter measured OD = 708mm – I wonder how accurate (02).
CC = 2229.4mm : [Circumference (CC): CC = OD x 3.14 (pi) = 710mm x 3.14 = 2229.4 mm (or 87.7")]
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Differences and effects on car:
The Circumference CC (235/70/15") is 2.4% longer than the CC (225/70/14"). At same speedometer reading, now the car will run 2.4% faster. This difference is just tolerable without modifying the speedometer. Or otherwise: the speedometer will show 2.4% less at same speed. To calibrate the speedometer when needed, the return-spring in the speedometer should be lowered by lengthen, as calibrating mechanical watches.
The Overall Diameter OD (235/70/15") is 16.9mm bigger, thus the car will stay about this half amount higher. For the front this can be compensated by adjusting the torsion bars, and for the rear by setting down the high jackers.
The Wheel Distance with tires 8.00 x 14” is factory given by 60.9” (03) or 1546.8mm, on my car with the wider tires it is 1624mm, about 77mm more.
There is a noticeable difference in the Road Contact when measured: the Diagonal Type 125mm (04), and the Radial Type 175mm (05). This is 40% more! Highlighted the rear left tire on the street (06), or another front view (07).
Wider tires offer more security and power-feeling in one step. Just keep the original hubcaps on the car, and keep as well in reserve the original wheels. – SERGE –  

P.S. (01) Partly Picture: Quentin Willson “Classic American Cars”

(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)

(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)

(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)

(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)

(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)

(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)

01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 823 downloads)

02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 801 downloads)

03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 845 downloads)

04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 818 downloads)

05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 822 downloads)

06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 837 downloads)

07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 814 downloads)

Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.

What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference.  - SERGE - 

A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -

Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
Apply with an ultra fine brush or needle (*), and when dried, remove the over-paint simply by rubbing with the finger or a school rubber. If too resistive use a fine cloth, moistened with solvent without pressing.
Now, the newly filled fine scripts have got a much higher contrast and thus become significantly better readable.  – SERGE -     

(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.

(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)

(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)

(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)

01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 810 downloads)

02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 803 downloads)

03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 837 downloads)

Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -

(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)

(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)

(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)

(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)

(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)

1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 872 downloads)

2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 836 downloads)

3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 803 downloads)

4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 794 downloads)

5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 803 downloads)

Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -

(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)

(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)

(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)

(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)

01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 898 downloads)

02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 778 downloads)

03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 782 downloads)

04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 804 downloads)

Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13).   - SERGE -   

Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!

(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)

(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)

(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)

(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)

(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)

(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)

(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)

(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)

(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)

(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)

(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)

(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)

(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)

01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 786 downloads)

02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 811 downloads)

03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 795 downloads)

04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 833 downloads)

05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 766 downloads)

06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 802 downloads)

07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 798 downloads)

08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 798 downloads)

09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 807 downloads)

10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 826 downloads)

11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 798 downloads)

12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 796 downloads)

13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 792 downloads)

Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem

used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).

Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher!   - SERGE -   :laugh: 

(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)

(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)

(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)

(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)

(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)

01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 750 downloads)

02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 731 downloads)

03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 737 downloads)

04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 734 downloads)

05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 749 downloads)

Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).

Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -

(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)

(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)

(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)

(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)

01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 762 downloads)

02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 736 downloads)

03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 736 downloads)

04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 743 downloads)

The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.

Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).

Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible?  - SERGE - 

(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)

(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)

(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)

(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)

01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 707 downloads)

02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 732 downloads)

03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 686 downloads)

04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 724 downloads)

Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.

Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).

Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.

The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.

The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!

To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap  (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.

With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light!  - SERGE -  :laugh:

(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)

(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)

(03 Load Resistors.jpg)

(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)

(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)

(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)

(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)

(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)

01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 700 downloads)

02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 675 downloads)

03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 681 downloads)

04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 679 downloads)

05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 665 downloads)

06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 706 downloads)

07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 700 downloads)

08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 678 downloads)

09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 681 downloads)

Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.

Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).

Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.

I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2.  - SERGE -

(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)

(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)

(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)

(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)

(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)

(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)

(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)

(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)

(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)

(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)

01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 681 downloads)

02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 706 downloads)

03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 656 downloads)

04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 695 downloads)

05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 714 downloads)

06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 653 downloads)

07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 690 downloads)

08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 679 downloads)

09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 681 downloads)

10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 648 downloads)

Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.

I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE – 

(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)

(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)

01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 668 downloads)

02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 741 downloads)