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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim | Message format |
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Water Temperature Gauge Sender: Technical aspects about this device have already been discussed on another thread: "Defective Water Temperature Sensor" http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=15&start=1 Now, one more "brillant" on this car! - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2010-03-28 6:29 AM (1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg) (2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg) (3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Temperature Gauge Sender LL.jpg (51KB - 636 downloads) 2 - Thread M3 on Sensor LL.jpg (102KB - 629 downloads) 3 - Dome Cap M3 on Connected Sensor LL.jpg (101KB - 635 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Black Painted Items: Many items on my car are black painted. Not the style of anyone, but to me for practcal reasons. When clean, it looks nice, can be partly repainted anytime without perceiving it, is neutral and gives a classic outfit. Finally: black is black, no problems with various tones as a white color. This is my personal view. Here how I do it, easy and nice: First brush the surface to remove old paint or rust. Then clean it with nitro-dilution or fuel, using a towel or washing the item with a paint-brush, to be absolute free of oil. The best paint I found and use for years is a spray, mat and includes rust-protection. It has a structure as silver paint and dries within a half hour. When the items are not directly exposed to water or rain, this paint can be applied directly on iron (or other material). For hot engine parts there is the similar "high temperature" spray. Inside the car or in corners, the surrounding can be masked with newspapers or a plastic foil, the hidden corners coloured with a paint-brush, using this paint previously sprayed in a can. As sample I used a rusty metal bar, here (highly zoomed) only brushed, not grinded or sanded. On the last picture, the black painted front of the engine (over 10 years old). The black paint is slightly shiny as silk, what gives an animated look. - SERGE - See as well the brushed and black painted Hood-Lock in an upper post. Edited by sermey 2010-04-03 11:20 AM (1 - Black Spray LL.jpg) (2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg) (3 - Brushing LL.jpg) (4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg) (5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Black Spray LL.jpg (100KB - 659 downloads) 2 - Rusty Metal LL.jpg (68KB - 673 downloads) 3 - Brushing LL.jpg (69KB - 661 downloads) 4 - Metal Black Sprayed LL.jpg (69KB - 659 downloads) 5 - Black Paint on Front LL.jpg (115KB - 649 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Aligning the Front Bumper: We all know, the precision on those cars was not high as on cars of today. This becomes apparent on mounted doors, hoods and trunk lids, but as well on bumpers. The front bumper of the 1959 Dodge is especially critical due to its side design - any mis-alignment to the fender is visible. When mounted as it is from original, most are hanging down. Some nice cars as illustrated (1) (pics from thread Vasteras) look as the front bumper will get lost at any instance. This was as well on my car. Correcting this by an asymmetric support would move the bumper more forward. But the bumper should even be more back to fit as well to the border of the fender. To move it more back, the mounting arms have to be shortened. Due to an angle of about 45deg the arms have in respect to the bumper, the mounting holes would not fit anymore by just cutting them. They have to be welded overlapped as shown (2). The adjustment in forward position then is easy achieved by inserting washers (3). The hanging side to come up can be corrected by grinding the bracket correspondingly. Recently I improved this alignment by slightly untight the bolts, pushing the bumper on the side up to maximum, using the car lifter. Then fixing (just hanging) the bumper up, with two adjustable aluminium angle brackets (3) on each side (4). When aligned and fixed in the correct position, finally tighten all bumper bolts (on Pic 4 you see as well how the Lancer Emblem is fixed, this way already posted earlier). Now, the front bumper is there where it should be, as it was initially designed. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2010-04-24 1:08 PM (1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg) (2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg) (3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg) (4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg) (5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg) (6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Hanging Front Bumpers LL.jpg (116KB - 648 downloads) 2 - Bumper Arm Welding LL.jpg (72KB - 666 downloads) 3 - Forward Adjustment LL.jpg (70KB - 638 downloads) 4 - Adjustable Angle Brackets LL.jpg (68KB - 688 downloads) 5 - Front Bumper Fixed in Top Position LL.jpg (86KB - 662 downloads) 6 - Aligned Front Bumper LL.jpg (76KB - 655 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Way to go Serge! You have cured the "American Car disese"! Next to all US cars (exeption from the master renovated ones) has a misaligned bumper. This is indeed a very noticable difference. | ||
59CRL |
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Expert Posts: 2679 | I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | 59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics. Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread: "Defective Water Temperature Sensor" http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1 | ||
59CRL |
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Expert Posts: 2679 | sermey - 2010-05-01 7:52 PM 59CRL - 2010-05-02 1:25 AM I see you have a 22 ohm resistor hooked up there, (red, red, blk) I bet for testing purposes, very good. I replaced my old CVR with a 5 volt 7805 today and a NOS gauge. I let the car idle for 30 minutes and the gauge reads 1/3rd, not bad at all. Tomorrow I will take her out for a ride and see where the gauge reads. Too much rain today. Thanks Sermey for the research and pics. Correct, the 22Ohm Resistor substitutes the sensor. This was technically discussed in the thread: "Defective Water Temperature Sensor" http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=29524&posts=22&start=1 Bringing this thread back for an update. Sitting at idle with my 7805 voltage regulator I get 1/3rd on the temp gauge. Driving down the highway at temperatures of 95-100 degrees the gauge will read the same. Sitting in 100 degree heat with the engine idling the gauge will creep upto 3/4. Not bad at all. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Emergency Car Cover: Imagine, you are on the road with your Convertible. It starts raining. You attempt to put up your top. But unfortunately it won't. May-be due to electrical problems, a defective pump, or it just clamps. In order to prevent your precious interior and the dash instruments to go wet, cover the car around all the interior with a multiple purposes Polyethylen-Foil (min. 0.1mm, 0.004"), and wait still raining has stopped. As illustrated, this cover (5 x 4 m) needs practically no space in the trunk (Package 30 x 38cm), and is always and instantly ready to use. ;) - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2011-01-16 4:10 AM (Emergency Car Cover.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Emergency Car Cover.jpg (77KB - 628 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Bullets for Rear View Mirror: A time ago some bullets have been offered in eBay. Even not an original mopar accessory, they went for up nearly USD100 a pair. Now I found "Chrome Bullet Heads" used as Tire Valve Caps in eBay, a set of 4pcs for USD 8.99, 5/8"x1 1/4" in metal. Proceedings: 1. Insert a cylindrical plastic plug inside the Bullet (D:7.2mm L 12mm), put-in a long screw (M4) till end, this will be tight and used for fixing. Reduce the bullet in length (from 30.5mm to 23.2mm) to fit the mirrors end diameter; cut the screw for remaining 5mm. The Bullet is ready for mount. 2. Remove the mirror nut, drill an M4 thread through, put back the Nut - the mirror is ready for the bullet. Now, just screw-in the assembled bullet, and your Rear View Mirror now shows the visible face lifting. The mirror bullets can easy be removed simply by manually unscrewing, to return to the mirrors standard view. Another gadget for your FWL Car - if you like it. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2011-03-09 8:36 AM (DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg) (DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg) (DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg) (DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg) (DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC04478 Set of Tire Valve Caps LL.jpg (85KB - 680 downloads) DSC04477 Plastic Plug and M4 in Mirror Nut LL.jpg (47KB - 757 downloads) DSC04475 Screw-in the Bullet LL.jpg (56KB - 720 downloads) DSC04474 Face Lifted Rear View Mirror LL.jpg (58KB - 717 downloads) DSC04473 New Mirror with CameraMan LL.jpg (77KB - 673 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Door Panel Protection: When assembling the door panel I had to find a way, for not wear the new coating material at the opening of the door handle, when manipulating with. I took the body of a "Solder Sucking Wick" as used in electronics. This fits exactly in inner and outer diameter, in thickness of the door panel, and as well to the diameter of the handle, as it was designed for this application. Mounted, it doesn't turn at all and doesn't need additional spacers. Now, no friction at all to the padded coating material when manipulating the door handle - an easy and efficient solution - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 8:15 AM (DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg) (DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg) (DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg) (DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC04514 Panel Protector LL.jpg (97KB - 691 downloads) DSC04515 Panel Protector Mounted LL.jpg (86KB - 692 downloads) DSC04517 Mounted Protector Rear View LL.jpg (81KB - 700 downloads) DSC04516 Door Handle Mounted LL.jpg (88KB - 743 downloads) | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Hello Serge Thank you very much for this idea! I'll use it too. Thanks a lot. Happy motoring! Dieter | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Another Serge special - recycling and preserving in one step | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Emblem on Door Panel: On many previous cars I owned, I liked the variety of the emblems. This is as well with FWL-Cars. But what I was always missing, an emblem on the door panel of the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal.. I purchased gloove box doors of Coronets, where there is an emblem exactly complying to my demands. Now it looks as original, as it was designed for. Another "Royal" eye-catcher. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2011-03-20 2:42 PM (DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg) (DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC04544 Emblem Door Panel1 LL.jpg (76KB - 734 downloads) DSC04546 Emblem Door Panel2 LL.jpg (76KB - 716 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Door Panels: A 3mm, pressed material is used, cut the contour according the door (the lines are not parallel or rectangular!), drill the holes and openings for handle, switches, clamps. Coat all the panel with a premium to be waterproof. Bostitch a protective pad behind the clamps position, then cover all the panel with a soft 3mm padding material as used for upholstery (not foamed rubber!) and fix it with contact spray. Now comes the vinyl (no glue at all!), just bostitch around on backside and on front under the mouldings, first a few ones, finally all around when adjusted. The Door Panel is now ready for mount, not seeing the fixing clamps at all. Same nice job for the other panels. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2011-03-27 12:26 PM (01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg) (02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg) (03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg) (04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 Right Door Panel Front View.jpg (39KB - 665 downloads) 02 Right Door Panel Rear View.jpg (60KB - 692 downloads) 03 Right Front Panel Ready.jpg (60KB - 709 downloads) 04 Rear Side Panel Convertible.jpg (141KB - 672 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND |
At last, now I interchanged the door moulding and illustrate here how this is easy done when fixed as described earlier in http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=51 , within a few minutes and no need of any special tools: This is fast servicing as is usual in todays cars. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-05-25 11:19 AM (1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg) (2 - Push up and back.jpg) (3 - Push down and removal.jpg) (4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg) (5 - No Gaps at all.jpg) (6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Restored Moulding to be replaced.jpg (40KB - 619 downloads) 2 - Push up and back.jpg (56KB - 682 downloads) 3 - Push down and removal.jpg (62KB - 644 downloads) 4 - Riveted Clamps.jpg (46KB - 631 downloads) 5 - No Gaps at all.jpg (37KB - 618 downloads) 6 - New Door Side Moulding.jpg (66KB - 623 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hi Serge, nice to see your posts again! As always, very informative and sharing - with concern of our othere FL friends. Thanks for sharing! | ||
earleebob |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1120 Location: Brisbane, Australia | G'day Serge thanks for the email and the link. some very ingenious solutions for FL owners Cheers Bob | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Rear Power Windows Motor: The motor is just mounted on the removable panel with two screws. The big manual gear is turned so as to cover all the moving range of the windows lift. The position of the windows motor must be matched to the gear / theeth for the transmission. So, nearly any windows motor can be used. The wires goes under the sill plate. Easy for servicing or changing - and it works. - SERGE - - (1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg) (2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Rear Quarter Window Motor.jpg (103KB - 612 downloads) 2 - Rear Quarter Window Motor Mounted.jpg (69KB - 646 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Oval Exhaust Tips: Long time I had the feeling, my Dual Round Exhaust Tips, as described earlier here, are too small for this big car. Looking around I found Stainless Oval Tips AMG Style 350 x 85 x 58 mm, slanted. The lenght fits exactly up to the exhausts suspension. They can be mounted without seeing Now my Dodge looks more powerful and sporty - a low cost visual power boost! :) Edited by sermey 2012-05-28 2:32 AM (1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg) (2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg) (3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg) (4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg) (5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg) (6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg) (7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg) (8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg) (9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg) (10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Round Exhaust Tips.jpg (90KB - 657 downloads) 2 - Oval Exhaust Tips Style AMG 350x85x58.jpg (65KB - 638 downloads) 3 - Dual Unit Cut and Assembled.jpg (133KB - 654 downloads) 4 - Unit Ready for Mounting.jpg (96KB - 628 downloads) 5 - No Exhaust Tip.jpg (46KB - 631 downloads) 6 - Insert Unit Vertically.jpg (59KB - 635 downloads) 7 - Push-in and Turn to Horizontal.jpg (63KB - 642 downloads) 8 - Adjust and Tighten 2 Screws.jpg (73KB - 618 downloads) 9 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Side View.jpg (82KB - 640 downloads) 10 - New Oval Exhaust Tips - Rear View.jpg (81KB - 640 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Buzzer on Flasher: In addition to the earlier subject "Directional Flasher" in this thread here pictures of the final Flasher-Buzzer Unit as glued , connected and fixed with a clamp behind the radio (view from bottom). The buzzer is damped for lower alert with masking tape. Today I won't miss this option in my Convertible at all. - SERGE - Edited by sermey 2012-05-29 10:47 AM (1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg) (2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit - Various Views.jpg (103KB - 654 downloads) 2 - Flasher-Buzzer Unit fixed on Clamp behind Radio - Bottom View.jpg (86KB - 654 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM Buzzer on Flasher: Explanatory comment This buzzer sounds intermittend with the directional light flashing. On the 1959 Dodge the indicator lamps on the instruments panel are hardly visible. Furthermore, the flasher unit doesn't sound enough to hear the directional light being flashing. Worst on the HighWay when entering at opened top. Then it happens that the flasher doesn't stop automatically and goes on flashing - can be dangerous for the driver as for others. PS: Pay attention to the correct polarity of the buzzer connection! Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 12:52 AM | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | sermey - 2012-05-30 10:34 PM sermey - 2012-05-29 4:37 PM Buzzer on Flasher: An earlier solution instead Many years ago I did another way to get the directional flasher more audible: Connect the output of the flasher directly to the radio loudspeaker, over a serial circuit of a capacitor and a resistor of more than 100 Ohm. Edited by sermey 2012-05-31 7:27 AM | ||
FIN ME |
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Expert Posts: 2788 Location: USA - KY | Dang! What a great thread, Serge! I vote that it becomes a "sticky'. You have an incredible eye for detail, and the heart of an artist! Fabulous car you have there! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Edited by FIN ME 2012-06-05 11:34 AM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Yep, Serge's the man - I and so many others have learnt a lot of ways to improve and enhance our cars from him. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Soft Front Styling: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design, not only on cars - this as well for Ladies! The front of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit bulky and massy in respect to the cars smooth lines. I tried to give to the overall front a wider and lighter aspect. On Photoshop I played on various designs. First the two long front bars have been cut in medium and short (Pic1) for lightening, then the verticals on the grille have been interrupted for widen, as well optically. I decided for the mid bar (Pic2), cut the bars accordingly, having a pair of spare for reversing. The new length of the chrome bar matches to the grill structure and the upper chrome moldings. The cut-out length is 78mm, must be done exact parallel to its end (Pic3). The end plates for mounting are easy removed by drilling holes where soldered. These holes then are used for fixing back the end to the shortened bar (4x M3). Now the bar can be mounted and aligned on the car as before (Pic4). To fix the center needs an additional metal extension due to the moved fixing plate. This Dodge now has got a soft face lifting (Pic5), appears to be wider and lighter – nice? - SERGE - To know: As usual this modification can be reversed at any time.
Edited by sermey 2012-06-06 9:11 AM (1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg) (2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg) (3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg) (4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg) (5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Test Chrome Bar Original - Medium - Short.jpg (174KB - 780 downloads) 2 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (220KB - 646 downloads) 3 - Cut Chrome Bar Medium.jpg (83KB - 677 downloads) 4 - 59Dodge Chrome Bar Alignment.jpg (92KB - 667 downloads) 5 - 59Dodge Front Softly Styled.jpg (116KB - 655 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | See what I mean! Who else than Serge would dwell on an idea for a long time and realize it as his soft personalizing of the Exner design??!! To me, it looks more balanced and even give the car a wider look. Also, totally reversible if he should change his mind. Yes, I really like it - who would even notice it in a car show? Some connoisseur might get a puzzled look and think, there's something about this car - others wont even note it! | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Center Front Emblem 1: As I love emblems on cars, especially on the front, it was the logical consequence for me to experiment what emblem could fit, now as the front was stylistically enlarged. To give some ideas here are illustrated some steps, in two parts, how to get the final result, using tools as photoshop and CAD in combination. 1. D500 Emblem: Having a spare D500 Emblem, I mounted the picture with Photoshop (PS) on the center front. But I didn’t like. Furthermore, the golden knight is looking to the left, on the medaillon to the right. To see it correctly on the picture I turned the head to the right (01). 2. Resized Knight Head: Why not a Resized Knight Head, mirrored to be as well turned to the right? Two knights at a glance, and at different sizes I found too much and corny (02). 3. 500: Or just the numbers “500”, already existing for 1968 Dodge Coronet (03)? I modeled resized “500” keeping the style of the D500 Emblem (04)? On the car I found too narrow, too similar to the 1968 one (05). (01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg) (02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg) (03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg) (04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg) (05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - PS Front Emblem on Car - D500 Emblem.jpg (95KB - 686 downloads) 02 - PS Front Emblem on Car - Resized Knight Head.jpg (94KB - 700 downloads) 03 - D500 and 500-68.jpg (78KB - 674 downloads) 04 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style D500.jpg (50KB - 667 downloads) 05 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style D500.jpg (112KB - 644 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Center Front Emblem 2: 4. “500” with font style of the front medaillon “DODGE”: To match the heavy chrome bars, the numbers are extruded with a slightly conical thickness (06). Inserted on the car with Photoshop as check gives a near original impression (07). Finally I decided to manufacture these numbers. Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 6:36 AM (06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg) (07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg) (08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg) (09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg) (10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg) (11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg) (12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg) (13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg) (14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 06 - CAD Front Emblem Solo - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (65KB - 665 downloads) 07 - PS Front Emblem on Car - 500 Style Front Medaillon.jpg (130KB - 666 downloads) 08 - Emblem Manufactured in Aluminium Rechromed.jpg (83KB - 636 downloads) 09 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Side View.jpg (135KB - 650 downloads) 10 - Front Emblem 500 Golden - Front View.jpg (111KB - 687 downloads) 11 - Front Emblem 500 Golden.jpg (144KB - 645 downloads) 12 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Side View.jpg (145KB - 655 downloads) 13 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome - Front View.jpg (150KB - 654 downloads) 14 - Front Emblem 500 Chrome.jpg (170KB - 831 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Looks really good Serge - you finally realized the ideas you had for a long time!! This is really a very interesting way of personalize a car and still be able to go back to original whenever one wants to. Careful planning, testing and testing again the ideas digitally and the fabrication and realizing the dream.. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | I know, many will dislike this, keeping strictly all as Original. Of course, if I will feel same one day, I will switch all back - a much shorter project! For a “maximum personalization” of my car I should model my original ancestors MEYER Emblem, dated 1756 (Birthyear of Mozart). Interesting fact: this hand-made Emblem has a Diameter of 175.6 mm ! ! !
Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 12:23 AM (Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg) Attachments ---------------- Annum 1756 MEYER .jpg (141KB - 652 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: The option of a remote rear view mirror is not exceptional enough to comment here. Other a remote controlled mirror on the passenger side. Here I show how I got it working. As I decided for this missing option on my car, I purchased 1959 / 1960 mirrors, harder to find than all other Mopar types. The mirrors I got had all more or less visible pits or speckles, and couldn’t satisfy the demands for my car, even they were praised to be “very nice”. When I got total five of them, four with remote and one without, I had no other choice to restore them. Now it was obvious to install a remote one as well on the passenger side, as an exceptional feature. 2. The control wire: I found Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire (05), for minimum friction needed in the longer control line (180cm), and matching the specs of the original wire (D 0.85mm / 30kp breaking strength). The difference of the wires is shown in (06). On the rear of the mirror, additional holes are drilled, enabling to swap the wires and fix them as original by a node (07). These holes then are closed with plastic plugs, and all looks again as it should be (08). Edited by sermey 2012-06-18 10:58 AM (01 - Punched-out pits.jpg) (02 - Fixing items.jpg) (03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg) (04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg) (05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg) (06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg) (07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg) (08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Punched-out pits.jpg (114KB - 647 downloads) 02 - Fixing items.jpg (69KB - 687 downloads) 03 - Fine grinding the surface.jpg (95KB - 651 downloads) 04 - Restored bodies ready for copper plate.jpg (160KB - 712 downloads) 05 - Nylon covered multi strand Stainless Wire.jpg (111KB - 645 downloads) 06 - Comparison Original to coated Stainless Wire.jpg (91KB - 661 downloads) 07 - Swapping the wires in the mirror.jpg (62KB - 694 downloads) 08 - New wires and holes plugged.jpg (94KB - 696 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!! | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (2) 3. The steel shell: I couldn’t find steel shells thin enough to pass through the oval tube in the stand. I repaired and joined segments of an obsolete old mirror to the short one, with thin connection tubes used in the electronics (09). The steel shell must fit exactly face to face, no use of glue, then turned them inside together. If needed fix them by a heat shrinking tube. The extended three steel shells (170cm) are fixed tight together to a solid flexible unit (10). The silicon tube (8mm), is previously expanded in nitro solution (30 min) for easy inserting. This highly flexible tube, sustaining up to 180deg, protects the control wires from water and diminishes slippage when adjusting the mirror from one side to the other. Now the remote controlled mirror for the passenger side can be assembled to be ready for mounting, the joints can be seen on the picture (11).4. The control line: Searching for the shortest line to the dashboard I found best to pass behind the hood hinge, this as well for the driver side. I modified the shaft of a conical drilling tool to fit a 1/4" adapter (12). With some 1/4" extensions I could easy widen the hole up to 20mm to fit a rubber protector, where the fixing plug of the interior isolation was previously removed (13). Now the control wires behind the hood hinge are much shorter, hardly visible and in a heat protected place (14). Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 4:28 AM (09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg) (10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg) (11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg) (12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg) (13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg) (14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg (95KB - 796 downloads) 10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg (55KB - 789 downloads) 11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg (133KB - 736 downloads) 12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg (64KB - 819 downloads) 13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg (67KB - 779 downloads) 14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg (71KB - 821 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Power Window Connectors: For a good function of the power windows, the supply current should flow with minimum resistance, to assure a fast lifting: adequate wire diameter, soldered and cleaned connectors. A few pictures illustrates how this can be done. It is sufficient to label only the +12V wire (black marked), for all other wires can easily be changed, thanks the external additional (soldered) crimp-connectors (blue) in pic 07. – SERGE -Edited by sermey 2012-06-20 7:58 AM (01 - Single connector soldered.jpg) (02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg) (03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg) (04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg) (05 - Connectors mounted.jpg) (06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg) (07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 814 downloads) 02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 784 downloads) 03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 810 downloads) 04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 759 downloads) 05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 745 downloads) 06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 946 downloads) 07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 764 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3) 5. The gasket: After the body of the mirror has been assembled and connected to the control line, it can be mounted on the fender, still without the mirror-glass. Although I got gaskets, I preferred to use my system as described earlier here. This gasket can be inserted without removing the mirror and the three control wires, and easy replaced at any time. It is thick enough not to leave impressions in the paint, and fits as custom-made. This is a Silicon-Rubber profile, as I used as well for the dual rear antennas, cut in the correct length (circonference of the stand). The ends are glued together to a fixed ring (15). Unscrew the mirror, so as the profile can be inserted and pushed-in (16). When the gasket fits all around, then tighten the screws (17).6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18). Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24). (wiil be continued)
Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM (15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg) (16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg) (17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg) (18 - Fixing the glass.jpg) (19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg) (20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg) (21 - Crimping the wire.jpg) (22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg) (23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg) (24 - All control wires attached.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 787 downloads) 16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 754 downloads) 17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 747 downloads) 18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 775 downloads) 19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 783 downloads) 20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 769 downloads) 21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 745 downloads) 22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 835 downloads) 23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 762 downloads) 24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 807 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | wizard - 2012-06-18 9:46 PM I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!! Here how as I did all parts to be rechromed on my car: 1. Disassemble all items to single parts2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal. 3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration. 5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02). When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become. To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.
Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM (01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg) (02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 738 downloads) 02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 949 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Adjustment of the flasher: Here the proceeding, when the directional lamps flashes too fast. It is checked on a spare part I had, a bigger flasher, but the principle remains identical. This one flashed too fast, connected to my car. First remove the housing by grinding around till the lip-ring detache (01). Then bent the contact with a pince up (here I did it by hand), to increase the distance at opened contacts for a slower flashing. It must be the contact without bi-metal (zoomed), just about 0.1mm (02), must be checked. Finally fix back the metal housing using instant glue inside around (03). Can let the ignition and the blinking ON. just connect and disconnect the opened flasher for better handling, and put back for test. Don't hold at the contacts, only the socket! Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 3:52 AM (01 - Opened flasher.jpg) (02 - Contact to adjust.jpg) (03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Opened flasher.jpg (93KB - 758 downloads) 02 - Contact to adjust.jpg (102KB - 747 downloads) 03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg (87KB - 721 downloads) | ||
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Expert Posts: 1352 Location: Springville, CA | You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load. | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | 56Fanatic - 2012-06-26 3:41 PM You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load. This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well? Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 5:03 PM | ||
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4) 7. The control unit: As my car didn’t was equipped with a remote mirror on the left fender I had to find out how and where to fix the control unit. Referring to pictures I built a bracket according the position where it should be. Later I found an instruments housing with the original bracket, included the delete plate (25). So I used the original one, as well the “MIRROR”-bezel (26). Other then original, the left hand control line behind the hinge now allows a straight and shorter connection. The right hand control unit was fixed with a chrome bezel, included with one mirror set, mounted exactly on the vertical under the left knob of the radio (27). This was the nearest available place, for other locations were already used. Here the control unit just not fit under the radio, the left lower corner of the housing has been slightly cut-out. The remote mirror on passenger side can now be adjusted by the driver, comfortable as the radio knob, while still keeping the rear view.8. The final result. Due to the new Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire, the right side mirror with the much longer control line, is much slighter adjustable than the left side one. I will replace the old control wires as well. Finally I mounted the chrome bullets (28), fixed with M4 in the mirrors nut, as already described here: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&... A black rubber washer seals from entering water, and can be considered as an additional styling element (29). The two rear view mirrors, more sophisticated then the former ones, restored have now become: NT-NOS (= Nicer Than - New Old Stock). They underlines once more the exceptional art-work on forwardlook cars. Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible. – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-06-30 4:33 PM (25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg) (26 - Left side mirror control.jpg) (27 - Right side mirror control.jpg) (28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg) (29 - Mounted bullets.jpg) (30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 766 downloads) 26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 798 downloads) 27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 758 downloads) 28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 818 downloads) 29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 750 downloads) 30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 793 downloads) | ||
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 Location: Netherlands | Nice one Serge! Beautiful work! I too made a right hand remote controlled mirror, one of the first parts I made for our car. I had a much easier job as we have the other type of twin strut mirror and I just combined several parts and used 2 sets of OEM cables. They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties. I won't spoil your beautiful thread with pics of my un-restored mirror set-up on an un-painted car... | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | You have as well a nice and intelligent approach, Wendy, my compliments! I will present a more easier way as those mentioned here: no need of 2 sets of OEM cables; the length of the wires also adjustables without needing to cut and re-crimp the rivets for the correct length: adjustment not in the middle of the cables, but at the end on the control unit. I will present this here as "Supplement" as soon I will have completed on my car and illustrate with pictures. - SERGE - | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible! http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=34070&start=10 To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow.. Edited by sermey 2012-07-05 3:54 PM (01 - Missing Clips.jpg) (02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg) (03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg) (04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 793 downloads) 02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 718 downloads) 03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 757 downloads) 04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 735 downloads) | ||
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Reminder: The solutions in this thread are NOT THE BEST ones. They show HOW I DID IT: logical, efficient and at all successfully approved on my car. - SERGE - | ||
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Soft Front Styling: Supplement to http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144 I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid. Edited by sermey 2012-07-07 6:46 AM (3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg) (3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg) (3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 752 downloads) 3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 765 downloads) 3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 759 downloads) | ||
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Soft Front Styling 2: The parking lights of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit too much in the background (01). View from side, especially on pictures, the collars around the lamp body doesn’t show as they should (02). Not much better from top (03). By simply moving this unit to front, including the chrome bar, this would make this styling more exposed. Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09). This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance! - SERGE - N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here. Edited by sermey 2012-07-08 7:35 AM (01 - Original Position.jpg) (02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg) (03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg) (04 - Distances-washer.jpg) (05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg) (06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg) (07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg) (08 - Moved - Right View.jpg) (09 - Moved - Side View.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 705 downloads) 02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 738 downloads) 03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 743 downloads) 04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 759 downloads) 05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 728 downloads) 06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 736 downloads) 07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 759 downloads) 08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 740 downloads) 09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 763 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM (01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg) (02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg) (03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg) (04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg) (05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg) (06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg) (07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg) (08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 742 downloads) 02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 713 downloads) 03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 722 downloads) 04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 737 downloads) 05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 748 downloads) 06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 728 downloads) 07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 751 downloads) 08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 715 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest. To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat. Edited by sermey 2012-07-23 2:26 PM (1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg) (2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg) (3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg) (4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg) (5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 715 downloads) 2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 733 downloads) 3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 728 downloads) 4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 725 downloads) 5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 711 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Black Painted Items 2: The black color spray I used for my items (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...), my reserve has now exhaust and couldn’t get anymore. This was the best black spray I ever used. It needed many contacts with manufacturers and suppliers to find an equivalent. And now I have found the identical one, from another supplier, in a new wrapping. It has the same fast-drying solvent, as well exactly the same satin-matt tint. All my comparative tests showed identical results. Here how they call it newly (marketing!): Rust Stop 4 in 1, Rust protecting paint, deep black, satin mat, RAL9005, and the products description, as printed: Active rust protection by effective 4-in-1 high-solid coating system: 1. Primer. 2. Rust protection. 3. Colour. 4. Sealing. Fast-drying and high coverage. Excellent adhesion on nearly all surfaces, even directly on rust. Liquid corrosion inhibitor. Brand: Dupli-Color (868320). In Switzerland available in LANDI (03487).
(New Black Spray Satin.jpg) Attachments ---------------- New Black Spray Satin.jpg (130KB - 724 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1208 Location: SWITZERLAND | Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5). (*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...
Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM (1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg) (2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg) (3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg) (4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg) (5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg) (6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg) (7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg) (8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 714 downloads) 2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 744 downloads) 3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 752 downloads) 4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 722 downloads) 5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 773 downloads) 6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 746 downloads) 7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 730 downloads) 8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 702 downloads) | ||
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