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Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> 1955-1961 Forward Look MoPar General Discussion | Message format |
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I "Sergeized" my flashers - following Serges very useful instruction, I connected the flasher relay to the OEM front center loadspeaker, with 42uF capacitor and 100 ohm resistance. Now I can clearly hear if I forget to switch of the flasher. I still need to fine-tune the sound a little bit, I'm gonna try with lower resitance values -, with 100 ohm without resistance, the sound is too high and somewhat peaky, with 100 ohm resistance, the sound is kind of good, but just a little too low. Instructions; -Just solder a speaker cable, one part to each connector of the flasher relay. -Connect a suitable (or muliple) coapacitors (with the plus side towards the outgoing flasher) in serie on one of the speaker leads, then add a suitable resitor, also in serie in the same lead. -Connect the other speaker lead to the + side of the flasher relay. -Connect both speaker leads to the speaker. -Test the sound level and adjust eventually by changing capacitors and/or resistors. It will take you only an hour or two and the value is really a higher safety. I noticed, just like Serge, that when you drive on a highway, stereo on high volume and overtake another car - it is very easy to forget the flasher, since the small movement of the steering wheel does not allow the cancel switch to work. Try it, you'll like it. Or go for the buzzer option as Serge described in his thread.... | ||
Matthew Keij |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 481 Location: The Netherlands | Pulled the drums and found a leaking brake cylinder. Cleaned it all and checked the shoes and they were still dry. Also took the dust of the bumper sticker that i'm using on the dash. Thanks Neil!!! (IMG_1582.JPG) (IMG_1583.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_1582.JPG (110KB - 307 downloads) IMG_1583.JPG (93KB - 301 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I WONDERED whatever happened to that bumper sticker!!!! It will look good, in Eurosville.... As an aside, it is interesting that the low-level 57+ Dodges got that painted cowl-grille on them, but that it was also used on the top-line 59 Sport Furys (and, probably, on the 57-58 Furys, too). Edited by d500neil 2012-07-13 5:37 PM | ||
Matthew Keij |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 481 Location: The Netherlands | You are getting old and you are going to forget things just like me! Oh wait, that means you are getting younger | ||
Myke |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1110 Location: Tulare Ca | Started Work On Removing The Flaking window Tint And Got The Passenger Side Rear Door Lock Operating Again. WD-40 You Are The Magic Elixir. | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | Yesterday I re-installed the long ram-intake system back on the engine of my '60 NewYorker. I had put them aside a while back and used a single carb intake in the mean time, after I had installed a nice little solid rollercam in the engine, and performed a drum-to-discbrake conversion on the car aswell. Today I got around to startup the engine again to tune the carbs. I still have some work to do 'cause I'm faced with a surging issue at idle. Probably a mis-adjustment between both carbs still. But already I've found the motor sounds why crisper with this cam then it did with it's pretty much stockish cam before. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | wizard - 2012-07-13 4:57 PM I "Sergeized" my flashers - following Serges very useful instruction, I connected the flasher relay to the OEM front center loadspeaker, with 42uF capacitor and 100 ohm resistance. Now I can clearly hear if I forget to switch of the flasher. I still need to fine-tune the sound a little bit, I'm gonna try with lower resitance values -, with 100 ohm without resistance, the sound is too high and somewhat peaky, with 100 ohm resistance, the sound is kind of good, but just a little too low. Instructions; -Just solder a speaker cable, one part to each connector of the flasher relay. -Connect a suitable (or muliple) coapacitors (with the plus side towards the outgoing flasher) in serie on one of the speaker leads, then add a suitable resitor, also in serie in the same lead. -Connect the other speaker lead to the + side of the flasher relay. -Connect both speaker leads to the speaker. -Test the sound level and adjust eventually by changing capacitors and/or resistors. It will take you only an hour or two and the value is really a higher safety. I noticed, just like Serge, that when you drive on a highway, stereo on high volume and overtake another car - it is very easy to forget the flasher, since the small movement of the steering wheel does not allow the cancel switch to work. Try it, you'll like it. Or go for the buzzer option as Serge described in his thread.... For clarification, please see the rough drawing below. For me, the capacitor value of 42uF gave me the best "Tick-Tock" and the 47 ohm resistor gave me a suitable "volume". The higher the capacitor value, the sharper the "Tick", the lower resistor value, the louder the "Tick" Edited by wizard 2012-07-14 2:30 PM (Tick-tock.png) Attachments ---------------- Tick-tock.png (24KB - 316 downloads) | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | wizard - 2012-07-14 2:01 PM wizard - 2012-07-13 4:57 PM I "Sergeized" my flashers - following Serges very useful instruction, I connected the flasher relay to the OEM front center loadspeaker, with 42uF capacitor and 100 ohm resistance. Now I can clearly hear if I forget to switch of the flasher. I still need to fine-tune the sound a little bit, I'm gonna try with lower resitance values -, with 100 ohm without resistance, the sound is too high and somewhat peaky, with 100 ohm resistance, the sound is kind of good, but just a little too low. Instructions; -Just solder a speaker cable, one part to each connector of the flasher relay. -Connect a suitable (or muliple) coapacitors (with the plus side towards the outgoing flasher) in serie on one of the speaker leads, then add a suitable resitor, also in serie in the same lead. -Connect the other speaker lead to the + side of the flasher relay. -Connect both speaker leads to the speaker. -Test the sound level and adjust eventually by changing capacitors and/or resistors. It will take you only an hour or two and the value is really a higher safety. I noticed, just like Serge, that when you drive on a highway, stereo on high volume and overtake another car - it is very easy to forget the flasher, since the small movement of the steering wheel does not allow the cancel switch to work. Try it, you'll like it. Or go for the buzzer option as Serge described in his thread.... For clarification, please see the rough drawing below. For me, the capacitor value of 42uF gave me the best "Tick-Tock" and the 47 ohm resistor gave me a suitable "volume". The higher the capacitor value, the sharper the "Tick", the lower resistor value, the louder the "Tick" Right click, save as... I'm doing this one for sure. There's a stack of "Serge" ideas in my notebook for my car. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I've got two speaker wires already going down to a fader switch, so connecting to the speaker-leads should be easy. I probably can come off of the fader switch's speaker wire-connections, and make up an independent (removable) "loom" that will incorporate the resister and the capacitor legs in it, that connect to the flasher switch, but, Sven, don't "your" two legs that run from the flasher switch ALSO have to be connected to the two wires that run TO the flasher, right now??? In other words; don't we have to create a "T"-fitting, off of the flasher, to accept both the current leads running to it, right now, and to connect with your two "new" leads running off of the flasher? Edited by d500neil 2012-07-14 5:00 PM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Neil, I soldered the cable leads directly on the flasher relay - that all to it. Solder the leads close to the flasher relay base, this allows you to push back the relay fully. Then you connect the speaker leads to the "new" cable leads with the components in serie. It's exactly as easy as the schematic above. You do of course need to insulate the components with chrimping tube or other - you don't want a short circuit... | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | OK; so I'm no artiste.... This is it, with solder connections to the flasher 'legs'? (in my car's case, the resister and capacitors' wires will run to the fader switch) I'm a fan of removable electrical connections, so I may visit my local Radio Shack and see what they can provide, for multiple connectors at the fader switch, so that the flasher (and its wiring-ensemble) could be removed, if necessary, in the future, instead of being permanently hard-wired (soldered, at both of its ends) into the radio system. Edited by d500neil 2012-07-14 5:36 PM (PICT5527.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT5527.JPG (95KB - 307 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | To know; the resistor might just as well be in serie with the capacitor (s). I installed my resistor in the other lead for convienency of trying different values. One might just add another small speaker under the dash, totally independent of the radio/stereo system. This is what I did - used the front oem speaker (which was not in use anyway, since I have two rear stereo speakers) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1215 Location: SWITZERLAND | A pleasure to see how some proposed ideas are being applicated succesfully, and even developped as shown here from wizard. Thanks - SERGE - N.B. You can replace the 42uF by a single standard value of 47uF (50V or higher), and re-check when connected with an instrument for the correct polarity! Edited by sermey 2012-07-15 6:09 AM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | wizard - 2012-07-14 8:01 PM wizard - 2012-07-13 4:57 PM I "Sergeized" my flashers - following Serges very useful instruction, I connected the flasher relay to the OEM front center loadspeaker, with 42uF capacitor and 100 ohm resistance. Now I can clearly hear if I forget to switch of the flasher. I still need to fine-tune the sound a little bit, I'm gonna try with lower resitance values -, with 100 ohm without resistance, the sound is too high and somewhat peaky, with 100 ohm resistance, the sound is kind of good, but just a little too low. Instructions; -Just solder a speaker cable, one part to each connector of the flasher relay. -Connect a suitable (or muliple) coapacitors (with the plus side towards the outgoing flasher) in serie on one of the speaker leads, then add a suitable resitor, also in serie in the same lead. -Connect the other speaker lead to the + side of the flasher relay. -Connect both speaker leads to the speaker. -Test the sound level and adjust eventually by changing capacitors and/or resistors. It will take you only an hour or two and the value is really a higher safety. I noticed, just like Serge, that when you drive on a highway, stereo on high volume and overtake another car - it is very easy to forget the flasher, since the small movement of the steering wheel does not allow the cancel switch to work. Try it, you'll like it. Or go for the buzzer option as Serge described in his thread.... For clarification, please see the rough drawing below. For me, the capacitor value of 42uF gave me the best "Tick-Tock" and the 47 ohm resistor gave me a suitable "volume". The higher the capacitor value, the sharper the "Tick", the lower resistor value, the louder the "Tick" Following feedback from Serge, here's more important information; If you want to combine the speaker with the radio, the resistor MUST be in serie with the capacitor on the same lead. This is because that the other speaker lead might be connected to earth, through the radio/stereo. Measure with a test instrument which lead that has eventual contact with eart and install the capacitor/resistor on the other lead. | ||
finsruskw |
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Expert Posts: 2295 Location: Eastern Iowa | After getting back from Carlisle, I got the F cleaned up and took her to a local car show yesterday. Arrived early and got a choice spot right next to the road. Best tankfull on the Carlisle trip was 16.24mpg on the way home after we left Gettysburg on old Hwy 30. Beautiful drive! Lots of lookers, many of whom had no idea of what they were looking at. Dave S Edited by finsruskw 2012-07-16 7:56 AM (DBQ car show 004.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DBQ car show 004.JPG (105KB - 307 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Here's a shot of H's fader switch (apparently, that green wire splits-off, because the OEM fader-diagram shows two wires coming off of this-same-leg, and running to both speakers, and, because the speakers work/sound fine.....altho the fader doesn't really fade , as much as acting like an on:off switch between the two speakers) . The two separated brown wires are split-off-inputs from the radio. So, here's my amended wiring diagram for your consideration. The fader, very conveniently, has input legs that the two "flasher" wires can connect-to. BTW, my local Radio Shack has a 100uF/50-volt capacitor in stock, but can Special-Order 'your' 47uF/50 guy, if I don't like the operation of their 100uF/50 volt guy (will that 100uF/50 volt capacitor work ok???). ...I presume that I'd be able to hear the flashing thru which ever speaker the fader is allowing to be heard? Edited by d500neil 2012-07-16 3:41 PM (PICT5535.JPG) (PICT5536.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT5535.JPG (108KB - 315 downloads) PICT5536.JPG (95KB - 276 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | ..Looking at the fader, now, I see that two sets of legs are located next to each other, with the third one being separated from them. Would it make any difference (as in having the fader actually FADE the sound, between the two speakers) if I swapped the green wire for the other far-end brown wire's location? I am presuming that both of the 'identical' brown wires run to the radio.... | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The 100uF will work Neil - I tried up to 1000uF (the 1000uF will slow down the flashers as well and the sound was too much). Way I see it on your diagram, you will hear the buzz-tick, buzz-tick in bouth speakers, and the sound will fade from front to rear depending on the fader position. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | If that 100uf guy will slow down the flashing, then, I'd better go ahead and have Radio Shack special-order that 47uF/50 Volt capacitor. There is no difference as to which leg on the flasher that I put the capacitor/resister, and, whether you think I should swap the green and the far-brown wires? Others had/have told me that the fader-guy wouldn't really "fade" the sound....and it does not, really, fade the sound, as-is. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Neil, the 100uF will work (1000uF will slow down the flashers), your messing up the zeros. As earlier informed, the capacitor shall be mounted on the OUTPUT of the flashing relay (intermittant +12 Volt). The fader will fade one of the speakers, I don't know which, but hypotetically there should be a zero point in the middle and then more front or more rear sound. Oh, and Neil, if you are the least unsure, add a fuse in the circuit during tests - that will save you from frying anything. Edited by wizard 2012-07-17 3:33 AM | ||
littlecarl |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 Location: UK | Not quite today but in the last week I bit the bullet and got some new sparks!! Had to shave a teency bit off the inlet to get it in!!
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sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1215 Location: SWITZERLAND | d500neil - 2012-07-16 10:14 PM . . . Radio Shack special-order that 47uF/50 Volt capacitor . . . . Small basic instruction: Two 100uF/50V in serial gives 50uF/100V. Two 100uF/50V in parallel gives 200uF/50V. A current only flows at transients (0 - 12V), thus a fuse doensn't make sense. - SERGE - | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Bought my stuff from the local Radio Shack, today. Got a (set-of-) 47OHM/.5 watt resistor(s) and a 100uF/50 V. capacitor. Was told that the capacitor and the resistor can be soldered together (if I'm careful--I am) but they should be located as close to their terminus (my fader switch) as possible, in order to minimize the "antenna-effect for extraneous noise reproduction" which is created by the wire length between the resistor and the terminus location. Also: was told that the SHORT-leg (-) of the capacitor should be connected between the capacitor and the resistor.... Edited by d500neil 2012-07-18 6:52 PM (Flasher pieces.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Flasher pieces.JPG (117KB - 291 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The antennae isue is true, but you'll probably get some "buzz" anyway, even if you mount the components close to the speaker - why don't make a bench tests with another speaker first - that way you can easily check the best function befor you install it in the car? | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | This whole deal will be easily removable, except for the soldered lead-connections at the flasher....they're just going to run about 6-8", to the fader. | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | I finally got my order of the light at the rear seat. When I mounted interior jumped out of the ground switch. Have had it for 4 years, but today it was time to fix electric. Went well and what pleased I was:) . Saw that it leaked a little oil from the pump conv. Will probably be a new one for next summer. Edited by Windsor59 2012-07-21 12:49 PM (DSC_1392.jpg) (DSC_1397.jpg) (DSC_1398.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC_1392.jpg (62KB - 302 downloads) DSC_1397.jpg (77KB - 295 downloads) DSC_1398.jpg (45KB - 308 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Let there be light - most probably a seal kit will help the leak Jocke - stay away from Chiink pumps..... | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | wizard - 2012-07-21 1:41 PM Let there be light - most probably a seal kit will help the leak Jocke - stay away from Chiink pumps..... Hi Sven I restore original pump myself 5 years ago (New O rings), etc. Have missed something, or .... No copy of china | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Well, spent 2 hours and got my flashers all wired up, as per most recent diagram, above, but discovered that the semi-loud flashing noise was occurring with the turn signals OFF, as well as being on. Not good. PM'ed Sven, with photos, but got an auto-response saying that he's on 'vacation'(?!?!) now. So SVEN....please check your home-messages, or PM me, so I can get your 'take' on whats-happening? Disconnected the leads to the fader, and the turn signals and radio system are working fine. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hi Jocke, if you did it yourself, there's probably nothing that you did wrong. If I recall right, you're running with automatic fluid, if so, it has a high capillarity effect and might leak somewhat. A new seal kit will fix it again. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hi Neil, I saw your mail and answered it... | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | wizard - 2012-07-21 3:00 PM Hi Jocke, if you did it yourself, there's probably nothing that you did wrong. If I recall right, you're running with automatic fluid, if so, it has a high capillarity effect and might leak somewhat. A new seal kit will fix it again. running with automatic fluid, if so, it has a high capillarity effect and might leak somewhat. Yes Dextron III I have | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | In the old days, brake fluid was used - it might be that the old (NOS?) seals does not accept automatic fluid. Brake fluid could be used again - if you want to - use fully syntethic brake fluid and you have no issues with the paint if you have a leak... | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | As "They" say: necessity is a Mutha of an invention. Thanks to the Wiz (Sven Andersson), my car now has a very audible turn signal noise. Thanks, also, to me, for finding a WONDERFUL "micro tweeter", about 1 1/2" in diameter, which can be Gorrilla-Glued.....(great glue--it WORKS fast, and does not dry out in its container and oh, yeah, it's made in the U.S.A.)....directly to the end of the flasher, for an extremely compact, efficient installation. Going down to the show-and-tell, the first pic shows the original wiring rig that I had created, from Wiz's instruction. This set up may well work for you, if you connect this system to a front or a rear speaker. This wiring deal does not work when it is attached to a front:rear fader switch, as I discovered, above. I shortened the wiring, and ELIMINATED the resistor, after I had found the mini-tweeter, and discussed the new mini-speaker protocol with the Wiz. As I had been using wire-connectors, initially, I used them again, but realized that my new wiring was definitely not elegant. So, re-wired the system and achieved a truly ELEGANT installation. UN-fortunately, when the ensemble was plugged in, the flashers flashed, but there was NO noise. Figured that maybe the soldering of the leads to the flashers lugs MIGHT have fried something inside the previously-working-fine-flasher. So, hie to the parts emporium for two (taking no chances) new flasher units. Drilled-out the lugs on the new flasher, for a mechanical-wiring attachment, and created a 'test' system, (with the mini-speaker still temporarily remaining glued to the 'old' flasher)....and plugged in the new flasher to the car's wiring. Hoorah! The mini-tweeter produces a fairly loud "ticking" sound, independent of the car's speaker(s). The BEST part about this protocol is how COMPACT the flasher-speaker-system is. Edited by d500neil 2012-07-29 9:01 PM (PICT5462.JPG) (PICT5463.JPG) (PICT5476.JPG) (PICT5488.JPG) (PICT5497.JPG) (PICT5505.JPG) (PICT5506.JPG) (PICT5508.JPG) (PICT5517.JPG) (PICT5519.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT5462.JPG (111KB - 296 downloads) PICT5463.JPG (54KB - 295 downloads) PICT5476.JPG (105KB - 269 downloads) PICT5488.JPG (103KB - 304 downloads) PICT5497.JPG (101KB - 277 downloads) PICT5505.JPG (89KB - 268 downloads) PICT5506.JPG (109KB - 288 downloads) PICT5508.JPG (113KB - 300 downloads) PICT5517.JPG (104KB - 299 downloads) PICT5519.JPG (59KB - 301 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Here's some more views of the mini-tweeter's installation. The reason I didn't merely run the speaker's one lead all the way to the flasher-lug was because the speaker's wiring is very 'thin', and I wanted to have a lot of copper wires be in contact with the flasher's lugs. In the next to last pic, above, you can see Horrie's Anti-Theft remote-starter-button. His N-button starting had been eliminated, decades ago, before it was discovered how simply the Neutral Starter Switch, on the intake manifold, can be replaced (----a faulty NSS will allow the starter to be engaged when the 'N' button is depressed, with the engine running). Edited by d500neil 2012-07-29 6:43 PM (PICT5512.JPG) (PICT5513.JPG) (PICT5514.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT5512.JPG (112KB - 295 downloads) PICT5513.JPG (103KB - 306 downloads) PICT5514.JPG (105KB - 289 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Good that you've got it working Neil, thanks' for the nice words, but we shall not forget that the original idea comes from Serge (sermey), So bout you and I have to thank Serge. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | As yesterday evening, today afternoon I drove my Chrylsi for a pleasureful run. Yesterday evening I invited the neighbor of my landlord for a short trip (he's the former police man, who argued about the flying bird on top of the hood). But while riding with me - he forgot the bird, but was deeply impressed about the acceleration of my Chrysli. I told him the weight is about 2100kg (4600 lbs). Today I went to the neighbor village of the village I live. The ambient temperature was about 78/79 F (+/- 26 C). The ride was very nice, no problems at all except a German WT - xxxxx driver who followed ways too close at 50 mph. Good luck I didn't have to hit the brakes hard - otherwise my Chrysli would be shorter now. I let the engine run while opening the barn, after I parked my Chrysli, I took the pictures... Happy Motoring! Dieter (IMG_0776resized.jpg) (IMG_0777resized.jpg) (IMG_0778resized.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0776resized.jpg (145KB - 288 downloads) IMG_0777resized.jpg (143KB - 286 downloads) IMG_0778resized.jpg (148KB - 284 downloads) | ||
Destr0 |
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Veteran Posts: 175 Location: Hebron, IN | Cut some replacement headlight surrounds - when I pulled my headlight trim and buckets out the other day getting ready for paint I found a nice size hole between the two openings in the fender for the headlights. On closer inspection there is nothing solid left between the two so yesterday I got out cardboard and tape- today I fired up the plasma cutter and made some new surrounds. Good news is on the other side the hole is still only about dime sized so easy to patch. Tomorrow I will bring a wire wheel and welder and get some new metal tacked into place (just recently got some shop space so most of my tools are still at home in a very crowded 2 car garage. I migrate the tools to the new shop as I need them. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hey Dieter - is the good oil pressure the result of the additive and oil change? | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | that oil pressure resembles the pressure that my 57's gauge has displayed, during its 30 years of my ownership of it. It goes up to +/- 70 psi (hard to tell, but the gauge has an "80" at its far end)...and stays there, thru thick & thin. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2012-07-30 10:22 PM Hey Dieter - is the good oil pressure the result of the additive and oil change? Hey Sven - the oil pressure is not depending on the additive. Prior to this oil change (last week) there was 20W-50 in the engine and the pressure remained the same. Actually I'm running 10W-40 and the additive. The difference is at the start of the engine (only noticeable when the engine's off for more than 24h). With the thinner oil I could hear some clatter (tappets) until the oil pressure rises at the gauge. Next time I'll use 20W-50 again, or 40 grade (pure mineral oil). The drop of the oil pressure at idle is the sign that the oil has normal temperature now. I was riding my Chrysli for about 70 min. The first pictures by the way is at about 1500 rpm or little bit higher, the second and third is at idle. - It's the first time I see that the needle of the temp gauge is at 50%. Happy Motoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2012-08-01 3:29 AM | ||
koopster |
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Veteran Posts: 170 Location: central Massachusetts | Matthew Keij - 2012-07-13 12:07 PM Pulled the drums and found a leaking brake cylinder. Cleaned it all and checked the shoes and they were still dry. Also took the dust of the bumper sticker that i'm using on the dash. Thanks Neil!!!
Matt- could you PM a nice photocopy of that sticker? Friend of mine makes them up and I am sure he could make some available for cost for the FL folks. He loves old cars of all types and has helped out with lettering, etc in the past for his cost. (buy american sticker.jpg) Attachments ---------------- buy american sticker.jpg (93KB - 289 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | That bumper sticker was made by a member of this website; a Secret Santa gift---or maybe a general DANKE for some assistance rendered; I forget(!) | ||
koopster |
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Veteran Posts: 170 Location: central Massachusetts | Ahh. Thought I would offer. Anyway, today looked at the odometer and realized I somehow logged 1840 flawless miles over the course of 6 weeks...without ever leaving Mass and RI .can't complain though as the weather has been great to be out in the 55. Figured I would throw some time into the motor with a little service time. Finished up the oil change, lube then headed for the points....took the cap off and realized the center carbon rod was broke but still firing as it was in its holder. Good time to throw the Igniter1383 in! Got that in, threw the new cap on, plugs gapped, and she fired without hesitation. Timing is set at 7-8 I.A., vacuum advance working. Took the car down the road without a single ping. I am happy. Threw the 1157 white -front and red-rear LED lights in the markers and taillights. Had them in the reverse sockets already-love them. I put a LED ready 6volt flasher relay in and of course, nothing worked. Marker lights looked nice, though. Took the taillights out and put the old bulbs back in...turn signals worked, but fast, of course, due to the low load. Anyone else have an issue with the LED ready flashers? Did not want to splice in load resisters into the wiring harness for each light. Was wondering how well the load resister wired in a loop right at the flasher socket works. Lastly, decided it was hot enough tonight to go for a 40 mile ride for an icecream with the kids. No A/C but with the vents aimed back at us it was comfortable....wish today's cars still had 'em! Those LED markers/blinkers sure lit up the road (compared to the old incadesants) to let others know the FL's intentions (not that anyone else gives the old lady room!) Thanks, Neil, for the recommendation. Edited by koopster 2012-08-04 9:29 PM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | Some pictures from my ride at July 30. with the former police man (neighbor of my land lord, pictures taken by the wife of the land lord). Here you'll see the neighbor, the land lord and me... and of course my Chrysli. Please enjoy... Happy Motoring! Dieter (IMG_2599resized.JPG) (IMG_2600resized.JPG) (IMG_2601resized.JPG) (IMG_2602resized.JPG) (IMG_2603resized.JPG) (IMG_2604resized.JPG) (IMG_2605resized.JPG) (IMG_2606resized.JPG) (IMG_2607resized.JPG) (IMG_2608resized.JPG) (IMG_2609resized.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_2599resized.JPG (170KB - 400 downloads) IMG_2600resized.JPG (165KB - 273 downloads) IMG_2601resized.JPG (161KB - 274 downloads) IMG_2602resized.JPG (159KB - 295 downloads) IMG_2603resized.JPG (156KB - 243 downloads) IMG_2604resized.JPG (170KB - 393 downloads) IMG_2605resized.JPG (142KB - 272 downloads) IMG_2606resized.JPG (165KB - 268 downloads) IMG_2607resized.JPG (167KB - 366 downloads) IMG_2608resized.JPG (166KB - 426 downloads) IMG_2609resized.JPG (195KB - 304 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7810 Location: Williams California | Your Chrysler looks great, Dieter! Thanks for posting the photos! ---John | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Really nice pictures Dieter, thanks for sharing. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Y'know.....an LED for the 57 Dodge park/turn signals would be a GOOD thing (in 'white', of course). Anybody know what the manufacturer is, and a P/N for them? NICE pics, Dieter, and those are some SERIOUSLY good looking tires on Chrysli, too! What brand/size are they? Edited by d500neil 2012-08-07 3:16 PM | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Remove the wheels and washing them and and to grease the front suspension, improved access to. (DSC_1522.jpg) (DSC_1526 - Kopia.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC_1522.jpg (136KB - 295 downloads) DSC_1526 - Kopia.jpg (157KB - 276 downloads) | ||
sermey |
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Expert Posts: 1215 Location: SWITZERLAND | Joakim, looks clean and nice behind the wheel - could be my car - except the brakes! - SERGE - | ||
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