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Location: Blythewood, SC | Oil change and wash. Drove it around a good bit. Replaced the bad spare tire that separated due to age. |
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Posts: 2206
Location: Muskego, WI | Took a load of chrome parts to Badger Plating for restoration, excited to see the results in 2 to 4 weeks! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 632
Location: Belford, NJ | Finally gave up on the idea that soaking the engine in the Imperial would loosen it up. Took the heads off and see that the 2 rear drivers side pistons are seized up. Not sure what to do at this point, so I'll clean the heads up and think it out. |
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Posts: 204
Location: canandaigua, ny | sand blasted the inner fenders. core uupport and started cleaning the frame, hoping to have the wagon ready for mopar nationals |
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Location: Muskego, WI | Sand blasted and primed my vacuum accumulator tank. Acid dipped, primed and painted my radiator fan shroud. |
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Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | After a productive day in the garage this weekend I had the following to show for...
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Posts: 102
Location: CA | Had some breakfast with Goldilox. About to prep some areas on her for rust prevention, and turn some wrenches under the hood!
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7819
Location: Williams California | Drove the Fury to the train station in Davis to drop off my sister in law.
---John |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13066
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I really didn't do anything to my car, but the FL-era is such a cornucopia of different things one must have......
I was dwelling on a nice FL boomerang on the cover of a book (yes, that's one of the items one must have in possession, as a FL dedicated nerd).
A friend of mine performed the wood work in mdf board and I blended the colours and painted 2 of the boomerangs.
I'm really satisfied with how it looks!
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Location: new york | Thats great ... Mass produce them! HAPPY MOTORING! Victor. |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Looks wonderful! Thanks for showing us!
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I went to my Chrysli to remove the brake shoes of the front brakes (both sides, all four). At this time I measured the inside diameter of the drums. The drums are 12.028" (305.5 mm). I plan to bring the brake shoes to a local company to grind or replace the lining.
Then I tried to start the engine to see if it'll run. Finally I succeeded after I opened the screw at the glass bowl filter a little bit. I got out that I only have two options: a) the glass bowl filter doesn't leak - chokes the gas or leaking and flow to the carb. Prior to mount a new gasket I cleaned the surface of the upper part. The gasket I got from Richard...
I think I'll remove the glass bowl filter to look for the reason after the brake job is done. Hints?
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Ah, originality, how fun. Are you having fun yet Dieter? I'm going to finish media blasting the belly of the body in my garage today, just the nooks and crannies. Then on to cutting the rust out of the rails and trunk area. The maddness never stops. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, servicing the glass fuel filter is very simple.
Carefully unscrew it, clean its insides and pour acetone or lacquer thinner thru its ceramic filter element.
You can also wire-brush and clear coat its retaining strap and its lid.
You don't even need to risk removing the upper potmetal 'lid' from its line connections.
Edited by d500neil 2012-02-12 1:53 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7819
Location: Williams California | Replaced the ancient front shocks on the Fury, it cured the rattling caused by the lower shock bushings being worn out.
---John |
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Posts: 2598
Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | wizard - 2012-02-01 2:50 PM
I really didn't do anything to my car, but the FL-era is such a cornucopia of different things one must have......
I was dwelling on a nice FL boomerang on the cover of a book (yes, that's one of the items one must have in possession, as a FL dedicated nerd).
A friend of mine performed the wood work in mdf board and I blended the colours and painted 2 of the boomerangs.
I'm really satisfied with how it looks!
WoW I will do same FL boomerang to my wall. Nice work. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1060
Location: Building incorrect cars since 2000!! | Over the past few weeks I have created myself alot of work 
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Location: Blythewood, SC | Yesterday I replaced the pinion seal that finally gave up after 55 years. I had the forethought to purchase a redi-sleeve, which I needed. The yoke had a pretty good groove.
Today I drove it to church, then back this afternoon for a deacon's meeting. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Finally installed the idler arm, the centerlink, and tie rods. Recieved a replacement bushing from Steve in Wisconsin, thanks, and a couple of tie rod boots from Gary Goers, thanks. It took over a year to finally complete the chassis. Now to continue with the body,
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Location: Oconomowoc Wi | Went to go look at mine after being left in storage for the past year and a half..... only to realize that I left the keys at home.... FAIL ! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | Oh that so sucks!!!! Did you say some 4 letter words to yourself? |
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Posts: 1444
Location: Oconomowoc Wi | floyd066 - 2012-02-20 11:03 AM Oh that so sucks!!!! Did you say some 4 letter words to yourself?
Nope... I shared them with anybody within listening ( yelling ) distance. |
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Expert
Posts: 1444
Location: Oconomowoc Wi | A few years back I purchased a set of original 1959 Lancer front fender emblems off ebay. They were reasonable enough for the set , but only because one of the two emblems suffered from 3 of the 4 pins missing, and had a drilled hole in the badge where the previous owner must have screwed it back on the car.
Tonight I effectively repaired and replaced the 3 broken pins and cosmetically filled in the hole with Alumaloy / Durafix aluminum Welding rods . It worked like a charm. Reviewing some of the Youtube DIYers working with the rod was key to success. They confirmed proper cleaning, prep, temp control and tecnique. Im sold on this stuff. Supposidly it can be used on potmetal for repairs prior to rechroming. It may be worth a shot on an otherwise "too far gone" piece, just for practice. |
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Posts: 2788
Location: USA - KY | 
Getting the DeSoto all spiffed up for the Carl Casper show in Louisville this weekend.
Think I'll put a Necker Knob on the steering wheel just for fun.
Anybody else going?
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Location: Connecticut | Bart_59_Dodge - 2012-02-20 10:45 PM floyd066 - 2012-02-20 11:03 AM Oh that so sucks!!!! Did you say some 4 letter words to yourself? Nope... I shared them with anybody within listening ( yelling ) distance.
Oh crap ! Now everyone at work is wondering why I'm laughing ! Good one !
Ron |
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2012-02-11 7:51 PM
Dieter, servicing the glass fuel filter is very simple.
Carefully unscrew it, clean its insides and pour acetone or lacquer thinner thru its ceramic filter element.
You can also wire-brush and clear coat its retaining strap and its lid.
You don't even need to risk removing the upper potmetal 'lid' from its line connections.
I took the time at my Chrysler to remove and disassemble the glass bowl filter. I was not surprised about the result. The rubber gasket engorged. It could be the wrong rubber (not able to cope unleaded fuel). I replaced the gasket and assembled the whole filter. It's working now again. I hope for a long time...
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Location: Madison, Wisconsin | Bart,
I have some alluminum sill plates I would like to use the Alumaloy / Durafix aluminum Welding rods on. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | This evening I removed the rear wheels and tried to open the ferrules of the brake line. I was able to open both ferrules a little bit. But the brake line started to twist at both rear brakes. Of course - Hamerite color glued the ferrule to the brake line on both side. And as the top of the crown I noticed that the RH rear drums produces a high pitch rattling during revolving.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
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Location: Oconomowoc Wi | jboymechanic - 2012-01-27 5:44 PM Took a load of chrome parts to Badger Plating for restoration, excited to see the results in 2 to 4 weeks! Where is Badger Plating? |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Reinstalled Horrie's overhauled (the worn contact points were rehabilitated) and cleaned/lubed clock
Tick tock tick tock!
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Location: ZH, Switzerland | Wow, that clock looks really nice. Big congratulation.
Beside that I went to my Chrysler to install the refurbished power steering pressure hose. A friend of me (running a hydraulic shop) disassembled the old hose and reused the fittings (upper, middle and lower). The cost was CHF 75.- and the rating of the hose is 300 bar (4350 psi).
The I thought I would like to investigate the rear wheel bearings and started the engine. Normally I sat inside and felt vibrations in the floor and a weird noise, when the engine is running, all wheels of the ground and the tranny in "N". It stops when I'll apply the hand brake or step onto the brake pedal. Please look at the movies.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L3Gqe0mC28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8LL8fThOmc |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 444
Location: Sweden Vansbro | Neil, Your clock looks really nice, is that a new fuse holder? |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13066
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | di_ch_NY56 - 2012-03-03 8:54 PM
Wow, that clock looks really nice. Big congratulation.
Beside that I went to my Chrysler to install the refurbished power steering pressure hose. A friend of me (running a hydraulic shop ) disassembled the old hose and reused the fittings (upper, middle and lower ). The cost was CHF 75.- and the rating of the hose is 300 bar (4350 psi ).
The I thought I would like to investigate the rear wheel bearings and started the engine. Normally I sat inside and felt vibrations in the floor and a weird noise, when the engine is running, all wheels of the ground and the tranny in "N". It stops when I'll apply the hand brake or step onto the brake pedal. Please look at the movies.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L3Gqe0mC28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8LL8fThOmc
Dieter, it sounds strange indeed - first thing that come to mind is that the propellershaft is mounted wrong and the second one is that the parking brake has a loose shoe that rumbles around inside the drum.. |
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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | I was out pulling parts off of my '57 parts car so I can piece the '57 2dr Sub back together.
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Bengt, that's still the same old fuse holder, on the clock.
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | wizard - 2012-03-02 10:00 PM
di_ch_NY56 - 2012-03-03 8:54 PM
Wow, that clock looks really nice. Big congratulation.
Beside that I went to my Chrysler to install the refurbished power steering pressure hose. A friend of me (running a hydraulic shop ) disassembled the old hose and reused the fittings (upper, middle and lower ). The cost was CHF 75.- and the rating of the hose is 300 bar (4350 psi ).
The I thought I would like to investigate the rear wheel bearings and started the engine. Normally I sat inside and felt vibrations in the floor and a weird noise, when the engine is running, all wheels off the ground and the tranny in "N". It stops when I'll apply the hand brake or step onto the brake pedal. Please look at the movies.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4L3Gqe0mC28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8LL8fThOmc
Dieter, it sounds strange indeed - first thing that come to mind is that the propellershaft is mounted wrong and the second one is that the parking brake has a loose shoe that rumbles around inside the drum..
Thank you very much for your answer Sven. What's not visible at the movie is that the rear axle shakes up and down forth and back during the run. What's mounted wrong? The only reason could be that the axle inside the trunnion is not aligned to the u-joint? Anything else?
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
BTW: Please let us switch over to Transmission and Rear Axle. It's because it looks like a too much drive shaft/trunnion/u-joint related issue. Thank you very much - Dieter |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 395
Location: Netherlands | Dieter, I can't make out how your car is lifted up, is it on axle stands or is just the frame on stands? The shocks look very extended and the driveshaft seemes to be pointing down a lot. The noise is terrible......
If the car is supported and no axle stands the rear axle will be hanging down a lot in the sagging springs, giving you a real bad alignment in the driveshaft set up which could cause the knocking and the shaking of the axle...
Did you try running it with the axle at ride hight?
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 444
Location: Sweden Vansbro | d500neil - 2012-03-04 4:25 AM
Bengt, that's still the same old fuse holder, on the clock.
Ok, on my clock, only the fuse holder is very rusty, and my clock is dead now, so I need to find a replacement. I miss the tick tack,, |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | Last fall after installing the restored steering gear - when the brake adventure started - I did a very, very short test drive. I noticed that I had to turn the steering wheel about one inch to the RH side to keep the Chrysli straight. Yesterday I reset the tie rod adjusting sleeve to get the same distance between the center ball of both grease nipple like measured prior to replace this parts. The coupling at the steering box I adjusted exactly at the center.
Today I turned both sleeves (open at the LH side, bigger distance, close at the RH side, smaller distance) one turn.
The result: From the center position to turn the steering wheel to lock (LH side) is equal now to the other side. So I guess next run I could keep the steering wheel at the center position to drive straight.
When the brake system is working again - I plan to go to a garage with professional car mechanics to (let) check the toe-in.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter
BTW: the old steering box was not at center position, when the steering wheel was at center. The clearance at the steering gear has been adjusted under this condition |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 347
Location: Ocean Park, Washington | It sounds like the rear u-joint is bad or there is no lubrication in the u-jiont. And the noise out of the brake drum is coming from inside the housing. Something is amiss there. |
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Expert
Posts: 2206
Location: Muskego, WI | Bart_59_Dodge - 2012-02-26 10:07 PM
jboymechanic - 2012-01-27 5:44 PM Took a load of chrome parts to Badger Plating for restoration, excited to see the results in 2 to 4 weeks! Where is Badger Plating?
Badger Plating
4021 S. Kinnickinnic Ave
St. Francis, WI
It's pretty much right on the south west corner of Howard and Kinnickinnic at the border of Bayview and St. Francis.
As for what I did to the Imperial today, I sand blasted all of the engine accessory brackets and pulleys and put them in primer. Then I rebuilt my PS pump. |
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Posts: 4533
Location: Ripon, WI | I finished dragging mine home today. :D Picked it up yesterday.... |
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Expert
Posts: 1737
Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | I removed the drip rail trim from my '57, and then I scrounged my parts cars for other pieces I needed! |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | Continued with the roof repairs on my dodge
Sometimes I think I should have turned it into a 4 dr roadster.
After welding in the metal to replace the rust, I am useing the dreaded bondo to get the ripples out but in the heat we have, its going off really fast.
Even when I reduce the hardener a bit, its still doing it, d@mn stuff.
At least I will end up with big arms from all the sanding lol
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 957
Location: Signal Mountain, TN | I ALMOST got mine actually running and driving over the weekend, but had to stop at the last minute to get the "Required" tasks done for the weekend.... 
The good news is she turns over, no noises, Oil pressure present, and other that the fact that the thermostat housing (which I forgot in my rush to go back and seal up) has a little coolant leak.... Gettin' pretty excited now. Hopefully she'll be alive in the next couple of days. 
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Expert
Posts: 4110
Location: Connecticut | Went to the garage for the first time in almost two months. Removed the car cover from the 58 Plymouth. Checked that the choke was closed (it's been a bit sticky lately). Pumped the gas once or twice. Turned the key...it fired up within a few seconds. Let it warm up to full operating temperature. Then shut off the engine. Put the car cover back. Locked the garage.
Now all we need is some warm weather !
Ron |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7819
Location: Williams California | I drove into town yesterday with all the windows down, a beautiful sunny day, and 75 degrees!
---John |
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Expert
Posts: 1530
Location: ZH, Switzerland | floyd066 - 2012-03-03 8:43 PM
It sounds like the rear u-joint is bad or there is no lubrication in the u-jiont. And the noise out of the brake drum is coming from inside the housing. Something is amiss there.
Hello John
Yes, I assume the same thing. I fear the replacement or seeking of a replacement for the u-joint. I know it's easier for my '64 truck -> 7260 the same for all six u-joints (rear propeller shaft, intermediate shaft, front propeller shaft). But I'm afraid I don't have a clue if this would work at the rear axle of my New Yorker. As far as I got out the clips are inside, too.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter |
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Veteran
Posts: 191
Location: Nebraska | Finished sanding passenger side and hood. Pulled the engine. Dropped the gas tank and bought some primer at the swap meet.
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: The Netherlands | Swapped out the passenger side rear spring.
Drivers side is on the "to do tomorrow" list |
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What did you do to your FL car today?
