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Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> 1955-1961 Forward Look MoPar General Discussion | Message format |
imfinlay![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 502 ![]() Location: London, England | I'm not sure I trust my rpm meter to be honest. It flicks around somewhat, next job is to swap the coil to make sure I have a strong spark. | ||
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coronetx2![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 197 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Mid Michigan | Took the 56 lancer to have the new headliner & wind lace installed. Should be done tomorrow afternoon. Phil | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Some small detailing (Resize of IMG_6340.JPG) (Resize of IMG_6342.JPG) (Resize of IMG_6345.JPG) (Resize of IMG_6346.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Windsor59![]() |
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Expert Posts: 2596 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Cool pic and nice wheels covers | ||
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imfinlay![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 502 ![]() Location: London, England | Stripping and painting the dash vents. What a pain to strip though, getting into all the corners... | ||
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Royal![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Sweden Vansbro | Cool picture Sven, and all the other things you work with, looks good. | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much for your good pictures, Sven. The wheel covers are looking wonderful. The frame and the picture (is it Virgil Exner?) at the license plate also. Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Thank's guys! Yes Dieter, it is Virgil Exner, aged but proud - I like to think that he says "I designed this one" | ||
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Royal![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Sweden Vansbro | wizard - 2011-04-29 7:41 PM it is Virgil Exner, aged but proud - I like to think that he says "I designed this one" You will have many questions about the image, Sven. But it is really cool. | ||
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d500neil![]() |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: bishop, ca | 'Talk about having a personalized license plate.....? | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Yep, as Bengt predicts, there will be many questions - still many FL enthusiasts will recognize the face of the FL-father immediately. | ||
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ttotired![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Perth Australia | Finally got around to replacing the water pump on my plymouth today Bearing was totally shot and the fan was wobbling all over the place. I was going to save it untill I rebuild the engine but it was getting a bit worrysome Mick | ||
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MOPAR-TO-YA![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | I have been doing several things to my 56 Chrysler to prepair fo a road trip the first of June. ( Handygun and Herb, I will be in your neck o the woods) Recently my speedometer started making increasingly loud noises and quit working. I am talking about 10 miles and could not get the cable off. I have a parts car that still has the guages and dash in it, so decided to take the speedo out of it so I would know how to do it. As it is hard for me to see up under the dash, I thought I would just take the whole cluster out. What a PITA! worked on it quite some time and bolts- screws were rusted. They tell me I don't have much patience. Out comes the prybar and other forcefull tools When I got the mangled dash out , then I could see how simple it was to just take out a couple of screws and the whole speedo comes right out the front ![]() | ||
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imfinlay![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 502 ![]() Location: London, England | Painting the speaker grille - what a PITA to not fill up the little holes with primer! Looks like none of the dash parts (vents, grille) were primed from the factory! | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | MOPAR-TO-YA - 2011-05-04 8:56 AM I have been doing several things to my 56 Chrysler to prepair fo a road trip the first of June. ( Handygun and Herb, I will be in your neck o the woods) Recently my speedometer started making increasingly loud noises and quit working. I am talking about 10 miles and could not get the cable off. I have a parts car that still has the guages and dash in it, so decided to take the speedo out of it so I would know how to do it. As it is hard for me to see up under the dash, I thought I would just take the whole cluster out. What a PITA! worked on it quite some time and bolts- screws were rusted. They tell me I don't have much patience. Out comes the prybar and other forcefull tools When I got the mangled dash out , then I could see how simple it was to just take out a couple of screws and the whole speedo comes right out the front ![]() Yes Steve, first I thought to remove the whole panel. Then I decided to have a look at the parts list (electric section). So I figured out that it should be possible to dig both instruments out of the panel. At the backside there is a small hex nut to remove at each side of the instrument (speedometer and combi instrument). All four hex screws are easily accessable with a hex socket, a prolungation and a small wrench (1/4" size). Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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MOPAR-TO-YA![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | Yesterday I took out the speedo from my 56. It was so accesable behind the dash that I could take it out just by touch- after seeing how the parts speedo was installed. I ordered some paint that is advertised as being better than POR 15, sold nearby , and available in more colors than POR15. I got light grey for the trunk. He said a lot of people do that and then put spackle paint over it. . I have pre fit carpet. Today, I took both speedos to a friends and we took the one from the parts car( it only had 650 miles on it since being rreplaced. ) and the better chrome ring from mine- set the odometer at the same miles as my car has. Cleaned everything , it actually has a glass face! and painted the needle with flouresent orange. It really looks nice. Install it tomorrow. If I didn't mention it before , I took the gas tank out There was a little line of pin-holes that I sealed from the outside 3-4 times, so I had it acid cleaned and inside sealed , and he even soldered the outside Cost me $85 ! The advantages of living in rural Iowa!....................MO | ||
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RDP![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1049 ![]() ![]() Location: PL / EU | Sven, Virgil Exner at the license plate it wonderful idea! is it legal? Edited by RDP 2011-05-08 7:21 AM | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Yes Robert, here in Sweden, we do not use the tax-label anymore, so we are free to use that space (No number or letter though) As for copyright, no problem, because I dont sell them. | ||
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wbower3![]() |
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Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt! Posts: 5358 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Heaven Above (Formerly Oklahoma City,OK) | I actually "found" the "lost" oil pump/distributor drive gear for my 270 Hemi. I hat put it where it belongs so I could 'find' it when I gat to installing the Distributor! (Sorry, John. I hope I won't be needing to buy one just yet.) Otherwise, I cleand off the top of the engine in preparation to pulling the cylinder heads back off so I can install the valve seals. Yes, I forgot to install them ehen I assembled the heads.................................. If I don't do things at least twice, I sometimes do them three times! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And I finally put together a wiring harness for the NipponDenso alternator that I'm using to convert from 6 to 12 volts. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by wbower3 2011-05-16 10:36 AM | ||
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ronbo97![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4078 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Connecticut | Polished the first two of the dozens of stainless pieces that go on the exterior of my 59 Dodge conv. This came after inventorying all the stainless that I've collected over the last 25 years, for this car (and the 2dr sedan that preceded it). Ron | ||
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Rebels-59![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | From NEIL D500 .............. Just spent 10 hours, this past weekend installing a new driver's side door latch, and refinishing the door edge area, in OEM red/white colors. The driver's door, suddenly, had not wanted to close, fully, at times. Bought a used door latch and cleaned/lubed it, and waited for a proper weekend to do the project. Upon its removal, discovered that one the door latch's internal tumbler-teeth had completely broken off from its tumbler body, and that the remainder of the internal tumbler teeth were in very poor condition, compared to the 'normal' appearing condition of the latch's visible external tumbler teeth. Also discovered that the door handle's lifting-lever's welded- on mounting nut had pretty much been stripped out, so that I had to remove the handle and have a sympathetic body shop Mig-on a new mounting nut onto the handle's lifting arm's failed nut. Adjusting a door handle to work the door, smoothly, in company with the door lock's operation, is always a hassle. Anyway, with the door jam's painting, the project came out just fine, eventually. As a word of caution, however, as you can see, your door latch's exterior tumblers may look OK, but its non-visible internal tumbler teeth may be in very poor condition. It may not be a bad idea to buy a replacement driver's side door latch, to have on hand, as a future spare part. (225.jpg) (226.jpg) (227.jpg) (228.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Rebels-59![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | MORE PICs (229.jpg) (230.jpg) (231.jpg) (232.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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d500neil![]() |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: bishop, ca | Thanks, Clive! Again, what you can see, about your door latch's mechanical condition, is seen in photos 229 & 230---apparently perfectly normal condition external tumbler teeth. What you can not see, regarding its internal tumbler teeths' condition, is seen in photos 226-228. Edited by d500neil 2011-05-16 5:44 PM | ||
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58sportsuburban![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 449 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: jersey | It runs! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYZ4jZFkjns&feature=player_embedded&... | ||
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ronbo97![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4078 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Connecticut | Good advice about the door latch, Neil ! Nice pics as well. Regarding the two toning, I thought that the 'second color' didn't carry over into the door latch area. On 59 Dodge, it doesn't. Not sure about 57, though. Ron | ||
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d500neil![]() |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: bishop, ca | Yeah, it did, in '57; that color line extends right along the molding break. My other advise is to score a 2.93 or a 2.76 rear end differential while they are still available at low(er) prices. Unbelievable, how chewed up the internal gear teeth become on the door latch assemblies, huh? Also; LOL(not-) :ask NOT why you should become upset, when anyone slams your car doors! Edited by d500neil 2011-05-16 8:20 PM | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Rebels-59 Coronet - 2011-05-15 11:23 PM From NEIL D500 .............. Just spent 10 hours, this past weekend installing a new driver's side door latch, and refinishing the door edge area, in OEM red/white colors. The driver's door, suddenly, had not wanted to close, fully, at times. Bought a used door latch and cleaned/lubed it, and waited for a proper weekend to do the project. Upon its removal, discovered that one the door latch's internal tumbler-teeth had completely broken off from its tumbler body, and that the remainder of the internal tumbler teeth were in very poor condition, compared to the 'normal' appearing condition of the latch's visible external tumbler teeth. Also discovered that the door handle's lifting-lever's welded- on mounting nut had pretty much been stripped out, so that I had to remove the handle and have a sympathetic body shop Mig-on a new mounting nut onto the handle's lifting arm's failed nut. Adjusting a door handle to work the door, smoothly, in company with the door lock's operation, is always a hassle. Anyway, with the door jam's painting, the project came out just fine, eventually. As a word of caution, however, as you can see, your door latch's exterior tumblers may look OK, but its non-visible internal tumbler teeth may be in very poor condition. It may not be a bad idea to buy a replacement driver's side door latch, to have on hand, as a future spare part. Big thank you for your post. The door latch in my 56 Chrysli 2d doesn't keep the locked position at the drivers side. From the inside of the door it looks like from another planet, compared to the appearance of the inner side of the door. I plan to remove the door latch and your comment encourages me to do it. Big thank you. Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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ronbo97![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4078 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Connecticut | It should be noted that 59 door latches and handles are different from 57-8, even though from the outside, they appear identical. The difference is in the serrated area that meshes with the handle. The 57-8 'mesh' is different from the 59. Ron | ||
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BarnFind57![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Signal Mountain, TN | Pulled the drums off of the rear of the Plymouth today. That was fun. I managed to break the pivot head of my Breaker bar doing it, gotta get that made up.... Some 15 years ago, I purchased a Snap-On AMC Hub puller from my dealer for removing brake drums on VWs. Today I finally used it for what it was made for. ![]() ![]() I have seen numerous posts on how difficult these drums can be.... now I know. | ||
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imfinlay![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 502 ![]() Location: London, England | That's odd - mine come off after the shoes are wound in. | ||
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BarnFind57![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 957 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Signal Mountain, TN | imfinlay - 2011-05-17 3:19 PM That's odd - mine come off after the shoes are wound in. These actually didn't bind on the shoes at all, they were just siezed up on the axle shaft. I backed the axle nut off just a bit, then applied much force with the puller. They popped off like a grenade, then I just removed the nut and slid the drum right off. Looking at them, I don't know that they have ever been off. | ||
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Rebels-59![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Rebels-59 Coronet - 2011-05-16 10:23 PM From NEIL D500 .............. Well, this driver's side (at least, it appears to be for the driver's side) door latch appears to be economically priced. I asked the seller for some images of the condition of the all-important gear teeth, and you can read his reply to me. I've re-asked for pics, but don't expect to receive any, due to the seller's "busy-ness". 78,000 miles on a car is NOT low-mileage, as far as driver's door usage is concerned. You should not really need the long-lever activation assembly (but hey, it's included here); only the latch mechanism itself. Knowing what I've now seen, on my 70,000 mile OEM latch mechanism's teeth condition, I'd be leery of buying any used latch mechanism without first seeing the condition of its inner gear teeth. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-57-58-59-Dodge-Desoto-Chrysler... Question / Answer.. Q: Could you kindly send me several images of this door latch's inner tumbler-teeths' condition? You can activate/rotate the tumbler, to show several different teeth on that inner tumbler. The inner teeths' condition is more important than the outer-teeths' condition, but, I'd like to see at least one close up image of the outer-teeth, too. Thank you. May-17-11 A: Hello: The tubler is nice and tight and the teeth are just starting to show some whear in the grease. This car has been parked since 1979 and only had 78,000 origianl miles before some idiot smashed it. Hope this helps and we have several hundred other add to take pictures of. (233.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I mounted the Powermaster 9530 high torque starter. After that I did some tests. The Chrysli was not running proper last journey I did. I noticed frequent sparks between the terminal of the high voltage and the terminal of the connection to the distributor (lead wire) until the engine got slower and finally died. After a closer inspection I noticed that one spark plug wire was not connected at the distributor hood. Cylinder 6 (visible in the first video) has an aftermarket spark plug socket. Another spark plug socked at the same side was not connected proper. After the first test run I opened the screw under the glass bowl gas filter little bit. There was a big pressure. I torqued it very quick. Some videos.... Engine running: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTd5A3KSYQc Accelerating: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UB-cjqpRC6g Exhaust note (Impostor mufflers, all cylinders firing): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_ZsLZeM1yg One more cooling fluid leak ![]() Happy Motoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-05-22 10:45 AM | ||
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d500neil![]() |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, listening to your engine run, you should go get an easy-to-find XJ Jag fan clutch assembly. It will quiet-down the fan noise tremendously, and will give you better MPG in the bargain. It is a relatively simple installation protocol, & I can give anyone a how-to-do on it, once you/they score this fan clutch, which is essential on the close-fitting DOD/PLY radiators... Your 56 CHRY may have enough room, between the radiator and the water pump to install a proper 3" long MoPar fan clutch, but, the 2 1/2" long Jag-guy works just fine and is a dead-ringer for the Mope unit. | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | d500neil - 2011-05-22 3:34 AM Dieter, listening to your engine run, you should go get an easy-to-find XJ Jag fan clutch assembly. It will quiet-down the fan noise tremendously, and will give you better MPG in the bargain. It is a relatively simple installation protocol, & I can give anyone a how-to-do on it, once you/they score this fan clutch, which is essential on the close-fitting DOD/PLY radiators... Your 56 CHRY may have enough room, between the radiator and the water pump to install a proper 3" long MoPar fan clutch, but, the 2 1/2" long Jag-guy works just fine and is a dead-ringer for the Mope unit. Hello Neil Thanks a lot for your advice. I'm happy with the stock fan and the sound of the fan. First I'll fix all other problems (issues) prior to think about an i dot solution (like a mid 80ies XJ fan or wire wheels). The engine almost doesn't start when hot, needs looong help with the starter motor. The starter motor changes the sound from time to time (higher pitch) when some cylinders fire from time to time... it stumbles after an idle run for few seconds like in the second video... Then I noticed one more leak of cooling fluid. The movie is from the passenger side, between door and front fender... Actually I do not know if it's the heater core or the valve. Inside or outside of the firewall I didn't notice cooling fluid... Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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d500neil![]() |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: bishop, ca | Dieter, yeah; looks like you've got more pressing issues at hand. Ok; try these suggestions; You can install an 8-volt battery, or, as is shown in the current Hemmings Classic Car magazine: I forget the brand name, but, an owner installed two modern (small!) 6-volt batteries in parallel, so that their positive and negative terminals were connected pos:pos & neg:neg. Then, the car's main-positive cable was connected to one battery's pos-terminal, and its negative cable was connected to the OTHER battery's neg-terminal. That way, you get twice the cold cranking amps, but still only 6-volts! "Tar Topper" company makes fake-olde battery 'toupees' which cover the flat-tops of modern batteries, but, they also make fake- battery bodies for Optima-type batteries. They might make something that can disguise your two 'parallel' 6-volt batteries. OOPS; 1956: 12-volt system...Ok, this is still good info for our '55 bretheren ! Edited by d500neil 2011-05-23 2:32 PM | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yes, 1956 is the first full model year /w 12V negative ground - voltage system. Yesterday night I removed the carburettor with the glass bowl filter still connected. At the back of the WCFB carb is a connection to the later installed (non stock) PCV- valve at the pass side valve cover ![]() Good news: the accelerator pump is still working, the spray of gas out of the discharge nozzles is powerful. About the PCV-valve: In my truck (318 poly) the hose is connected to the air filter. Once I connected it to the pcv-port at the edelbrock carb. The engine was running much worse. So I connected it again to the air filter and closed the pcv-port. Bad news: My Chrysli lost almost half of a gallon cooling fluid. Where the heck does this cooling fluid come from? The heater valve is closed, during the test run one hose was hot the second cold. I guess I'm going to short circuit the heater core and heater valve with a new hose (temporary solution). Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Dieter, you need to backflush the radiator - try to loosen the wingnut screw on the bottom tank (hope that there is one on the 56?) check the threads and make yourself an adapter so that you can connect a water hose to the bottom tank. Now open the radiator cap and try to force a rubber tube into the hole (old radiator hose?) so that the water is lead away from the fan and the motor. Open the water hose and let it flush until you see clear water in the "outlet". Hint - while flushing, start your engine and let it run until the thermostat opens - that way you flush the engine too. The heater valve shall be fully open during the flushing operation. Hint 2 - The radiator will puke up the water if you fill the radiator up to the neck - this is valid for all old cars. Keep the water level low, try with the level one inch below the neck. | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Sven, thanks a lot. As far as I remember there is a wing nut at the bottom tank of the radiator. So I could drain the cooling circuit. It's clear that I'll open the heater valve as well. Furthermore I noticed two plug screws one at each side of the block. I drained my truck several times. For that I cut a .5 liter cola pet bottle into two equally sized pieces. One of these works very good to direct the cooling fluid away from the frame or radiator. The leak of the cooling fluid is at the firewall area, not at the nose of my Chrysli. The inner side of the rocker panel is wet at the pass side. Actually I could not run my Chrysli. I removed the carburetor. I would like to clean it. Happy Motoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2011-05-24 3:05 PM (IMG_0142resized.jpg) (IMG_0143resized.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Even here you could see the drops of cooling fluid (pictures taken at 03/12/11). First I hoped that these wet areas are not from my Chrysli or water pouring out of the cleaning my mechanic did. But I feared cooling fluid. Now I'm sure it's cooling fluid from my Chrysli... ![]() Happy Motoring! Dieter (DSC01291s.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Today I got out where the cooling fluid goes and where the it leaves.... what a big mess under the sill board! First mildew spots are visible under the sill board close to the front bench. The carpet, the insulation (temperature and sound) are all very wet. The heater valve exhausted - not last Sunday, but long ago apparently. Today I took time to read some threads in the Heating, Cooling and Air Condition section. I trust John (Big M) who wrote "I've never seen a broken Mopar heater core, but always leaking heater valves" as an answer to a thread of an 62 New Yorker (Heater core?). Best solution to solve the leakage? Please don't tell me it's available at a Napa store. If you don't mind buy one (repair set) for me, PM me the price (s&h included) and I'll send the money via PayPal. Or is the cvi-automotive Volvo Amazon heater valve the better solution? I'll appreciate your answer, thank you. Happy Motoring! Dieter (DSC01367resized.JPG) (DSC01368resized.JPG) (DSC01372resized.JPG) (DSC01373resized.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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wizard![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13062 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | A friend of mine used the Volvo valve - works very good and looks almost OEM. Naturally, you can buy a repair kit at NAPA.......... | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Thanks a lot for your response. I guess I'm going to buy a Volvo 122 heater valve. The only difference - as far as I could see from pictures - is the mounting frame (the mounting screws are located differently between my 1956 Chrysler and a Volvo 122). The price is a little bit whopping... US $ 144.-, but it's worth, it's brand new. So I just have to drain the cooling circuit (the fluid needs to be changed either - rusty color, but no signs of oil ![]() I don't think I'm driving my Chrysli again until it's summer... Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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57-time-machine![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 102 ![]() Location: CA | I had a new fuel pump, water pump, re-cored radiator and rebuilt carburetor installed! Thanks a million Finsinthemirror, thanks to the both of you. I owe you guys one..... Onward to the next task ![]() | ||
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shuweet61![]() |
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Regular Posts: 92 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Hollister Ca | I took a TOP 5 MILD CUSTOM award at the West Coast Kustom show in Santa Maria last weekend. | ||
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di_ch_NY56![]() |
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Expert Posts: 1530 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday evening I removed the wet newspaper and put new, dry newspaper under the insulation again. Last time I opened the heater valve and good luck - no more cooling fluid drained into the passenger room. Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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ttotired![]() |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8445 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Perth Australia | Work has been a bit quiet the last week or so, so I have gotten busy My car now has a gaping big hole in the r/h/r fender and I have repair sections on the way for both fenders I did make a little mistake, I meant to get all of it from the same place, but I bid on 2 panels from different suppliers (ebay) and "won" both of them. Be interesting to compare the panels though. 1 is from ammuscle, the other from rocker king I also found a local fab shop that can bend up a new trunk lip for me and cut out the best of what was left as a patern for them. The lip is almost totally gone. I will feel a lot better about the project after I get some solid steel in place | ||
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polara61![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 417 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Bräcke,Sweden | Since it´s my cars 50th birthday I gave her some presents. She received 4 new outside doorhandles and a clock with new instrument cluster lens (Thanks Dave S). (RFdoor.jpg) (RRdoor.jpg) (Dashcluster.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Royal![]() |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 444 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Sweden Vansbro | Really nice parts you got, Nils-Erik | ||
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wbower3![]() |
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Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt! Posts: 5358 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Heaven Above (Formerly Oklahoma City,OK) | I removed the intake manifold and the right cylinderhead from the 270 ci Hemi in my '55 CRL, (and killed the headgasket in the process) so I can install the valve seals the were not installed when I assembled the engine. The "kit" i bought to rebuild with came with new valve springs. But did not distinguish intake and exhaust valvesprings, and also included a set of inner valvesprings (which the engine did not have when I tore it down). With innersprings installed there's no way the valve seal will fit. On calling the supplier, I get a song and dance that up to 1955 the Hemi engines had two valvesprings on the exhaust valves and one spring on the intake valves. Also they had no seal on the exhaust valves, but did have on intake valves. And in 1956, they changed to single springs on both intake and exhaust with seals. My factory manual only shows single springs and only discusses single springs. Who's to be beleived? The customer service yoyo, or the 1955 factory shopmanual? ? ? ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by wbower3 2011-06-02 3:47 PM | ||
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