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plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Looking for some solid advice on indentifying wheel bearing noise on my Imperial. The noise seems to come in around 40 mph. It's a howling noise. The rear axle bearings were serviced a couple of years ago. The fronts were serviced about a year ago. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger front, but noise likes to migrate. Thanks | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Tough to tell from here, check the bearing in the wheel you feel it is coming from, gotta start somewhere. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | I'm just not sure how to tell on the rear axle wheel bearings. Thanks for the reply | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | The driver's side front bearing is loose. Will loose bearings cause a howl that goes away upon coasting? | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7409 Location: northern germany | plymouth - 2020-02-13 6:30 PM Looking for some solid advice on indentifying wheel bearing noise on my Imperial. The noise seems to come in around 40 mph. It's a howling noise. The rear axle bearings were serviced a couple of years ago. The fronts were serviced about a year ago. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger front, but noise likes to migrate. Thanks If you still have drum brakes, let the car coast and apply the brakes lightly. That takes the load off the bearings. If the noise disappears it is caused by a worn wheel bearing. | ||
StillOutThere |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | Worth checking the center carrier bearing on your two piece driveshaft as well as its rubber mounting that deteriorates with age. Noise there goes forward and back! The most difficult noise I ever had turned out to be a rear u-joint. Vehicle had this occassional oddball squeak. Was a later joint with no grease fitting made into it. By feel it was totally TIGHT. When I took it out /apart, the roller bearings inside had totally turned to RUST DUST. Weird. Replaced with greasable. No more squeak. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Thanks guys! I did a little testing today. It is NOT the front wheel bearings. I even disassembled/regreased/adjusted and the noise still is there. The carrier bearing has been replaced with new bearing and revulcanized rubber and the UJoints were replaced at the same time. I can confirm that the noise gets very audible around 35-40mph. When I let off the gas, the noise seems to go away. | ||
StillOutThere |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | Might try an X-rotation of the tires. If they are the source, it theoretically would move the noise to an opposite corner of the car. Has it been suggested?..... there typically is a grease plug out on the axle tubes near the brake backing plates on each end of the rear axle. It is a PLUG so that no one uses chassis grease here! One removes plug, inserts a zerk, and put in NO MORE THAN 2-3 hand pumps of WHEEL BEARING GREASE only while turning the wheel. This goes to the axle bearing. Reinstall plugs afterward. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Interesting, I've never noticed a plug of any kind on the axle tubes. Then again, I've never looked. I'll definitely check it out tomorrow. Thank you again. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | A noise in the rear of the car that comes only during acceleration is usually associated with 4 possibilties that I am aware of: 1. pinion gear isn't adjusted properly. Check the lash at the pinion. 2. pinion angle is wrong. A noise on acceleration means that the pinion is pointing too high. Loose axle bolts can also cause this to occur. Check them! 3. bad u-joints or carrier bearing. 4. Bad rear axle bearing. If your rear axle bearing is shot, you will notice that it rotates easily in the rearward direction, but has resistance in the forward direction, even with the brakes & e-brake completely disengaged. On a later 8 3/4, this almost exclusively happens to the right side of the car where the adjuster is located, but this doesn't apply to a '63 axle. Edited by Powerflite 2020-02-14 8:37 PM | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Try a second set of ears , knowledgeable friend maybe, pinion bearing can make noise as you describe, very common issue in an old rear Make sure the pinion nut is properly torqued first. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Turns out that the pinion angle appears to be way out of whack. The FSM mentions placing tapered shims underneath the rear axle to achieve the proper working pinion angle. Does anyone know where I could purchase these shims? | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | Summit Racing has them in 2, 2.5, 4, 6, 8 degrees. But the question is why is it off? If everything is stock, it shouldn't be like that, so find the cause. Maybe there is some worn out dampening pad under the axle that is causing the problem? | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | I got a new set of leaf springs, that probably threw off the angles. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Well that should be corrected of course , but that would cause a vibration or shudder a certain speeds, not a noise. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | plymouth - 2020-02-14 12:30 AM Looking for some solid advice on indentifying wheel bearing noise on my Imperial. The noise seems to come in around 40 mph. It's a howling noise. The rear axle bearings were serviced a couple of years ago. The fronts were serviced about a year ago. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger front, but noise likes to migrate. Thanks On coast or drive? Will the howling stop if you accelerate slightly? This might be worn pinion bearings and I have "repaired" my car with Lucas Gear Oil Sae 80W-90 https://lucasoil.com/products/gear-oil Clearly, the worn bearings will be the same, but this oil, eventually hotted up with one tube of STP gear oil http://www.stp.eu/en/products/oil-additives/oil-treatment-for-gearb... might solve the howl. Just remove as much as possible of the old oil and fill up with one bottle of Lucas, add one tube of STP and top off with more Lucas. The STP is thick as honey. The concept of these oil/additives is that they stick to the gear teeths instead of just be thrown off by centifugal forces. | ||
StillOutThere |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | Lucas is almost the ONLY name in "additives" that ever goes into any of my vehicles. Real quality products that do what they say. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Thanks for the replies. The noise goes away while coasting and light acceleration. Once the rain stops, I'll measure the working angle and order the correct shims. I will also give the Lucas and STP a try. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | So it seems like the pinion bearings are worn or overloaded by the wrong drive shaft angles. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | Shep - 2020-02-16 7:56 AM Well that should be corrected of course , but that would cause a vibration or shudder a certain speeds, not a noise. No, a pinion angle that is wrong will cause noise too because the vibration transfers through the driveshaft and other components and rings quite loudly. I experienced this quite dramatically when I had a custom axle in my Toyota Corona with the wrong pinion angle on it. In my case, it was pointing down too far so that it would drive nice as long as you stepped on the gas. But as soon as you let off or tried to coast, it would make quite a racket so that it drove you nuts. It did this until I made a replacement 8" Ford axle for it with the proper pinion angle on it. (The gear selection on the previous axle was lousy so that's why I didn't just put wedges under it) | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Well, gotta tell you I have built race cars and modified drivelines and can't say I ever described the harmonics created as a gear whine. Of course the degree of misalignment may change that. Always felt in the floor, or chassis, but we are all different in how these conditions manifest themselves . Interesting thread for sure. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The universal joints are not constant speed as the ball and trunnion. If the drive shaft angles are very much off, there will be kind of a mechanical bind - hypothetically, this will occure at any drive shaft rpm's, but of course more notised on higher rpm's. In my experience, the wrong drive shaft angles will give more a vibrating dull sound than a whine. But then, if we imagine that the wrong drive shaft angles bottons out the sliding splines and forces the pinion youke inwards into the differential. This would give a momentary or permanent extra load on the bearings, but this should also be noticed by that the sound would be worse on a bumpy road. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | Kind of a side question, does anyone know if I can get the STP TREATMENT FOR GEARBOXES on this side of the pond? Everything I find is in Europe. | ||
plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 2264 Location: McComb, Mississippi | The rain finally stopped, so I took some measurements. The rear driveshaft slopes down to the rear at 5.5°. the pinion slopes up 5.50°. So the working angle is 0°. Guess that correct? If 1 slopes up and the other slopes down, don't you subtract the readings? From what I have gathered, the working angle on this Imperial should be between 1 and 3°. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Ride height can alter the pinion angle as well as rear spring condition. The slight 1-3 pinion angle helps in u joint life, and can compensate for body lift spring wrap on acceleration, anyway , can't see that alone causing any noises. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | Yes, you want the two center lines parallel to each other so it sounds like it should be OK. The 3 degree max offset is with the pinion pointing down as it naturally will lift on acceleration. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7409 Location: northern germany | Powerflite - 2020-02-21 10:17 PM Yes, you want the two center lines parallel to each other so it sounds like it should be OK. The 3 degree max offset is with the pinion pointing down as it naturally will lift on acceleration. Actually, no. You want the diff nose to slope down slightly, as the rear axle has the tendecy to "roll" backwards under acceleration. That said, this can't be the reason for the noise. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | That's essentially what I said. It is all in the tolerance. 3 degrees down, and 1 degree up. | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3400 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | I think we are all on the same page here, but we all seem to agree this pinion issue is not the noise source. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7409 Location: northern germany | 1960fury - 2020-02-22 5:47 AM Powerflite - 2020-02-21 10:17 PM Yes, you want the two center lines parallel to each other so it sounds like it should be OK. The 3 degree max offset is with the pinion pointing down as it naturally will lift on acceleration. Actually, no. You want the diff nose to slope down slightly, as the rear axle has the tendecy to "roll" backwards under acceleration. That said, this can't be the reason for the noise. Okay, sorry, I just read "you want center lines parallel" and that you ok-ed the 0° working angle. | ||
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