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Is this the correct Bellhousing ? Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear Axle | Message format |
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Guy's I'm about to bolt my motor & trans together & noticed that there are no locating dowels in the block is this normal ? There are also no holes in the bellhousing for locating dowels this seems odd to me is it ? Here are a few pic's of the rear of my motor & the bellhousing is this the correct bellhousing for a 1960 318 Poly with CI trans ? The bellhousing is made of alloy if that helps Thanks in advance Cheers Gra (bell1 (Medium).jpg) (bell2 (Medium).jpg) (block (Medium).jpg) Attachments ---------------- bell1 (Medium).jpg (141KB - 150 downloads) bell2 (Medium).jpg (151KB - 142 downloads) block (Medium).jpg (66KB - 128 downloads) | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | It's together (20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg) (20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg) Attachments ---------------- 20180330_115144 (Medium).jpg (209KB - 147 downloads) 20180330_140126_resized (Small).jpg (57KB - 138 downloads) | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | I think, 57chizler (John) is the resident wiz on these boxes... Not sure if he's been on or just stays logged in. He might see this if having a look around the forum. Edited by matte 2018-03-30 3:20 PM | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Matte, It will be in the car in about an hour Cheers Gra | ||
RICKYMOPAR |
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Veteran Posts: 292 Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | I have never seen a bell housing like this, similar to 59 60 318. Is it possible that it is a slant six truck bell? | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3779 Location: NorCal | Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans. The FSM is your friend here. | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Ricky It is the bell housing that was in the car when I got it it bolts up but no locating dowels. My car has had an engine swap at sometime & I can see the stain were the old motor lined up the current motor is a later model with early crank. A slant 6 bell housing would have the starter location up higher. | ||
59 in Calif |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1102 Location: Hayward, Calif | As I remember back in the late 50's , predominately in the Ply line they used that flat adapter plate. Seems to me it could be used with either the small Ply V8's or the flat 6's. I remember using that flat adapter plate, but don't remember anymore ( that was 50 some yrs ago ) just what I was doing or why I used it. There should be an alignment dowel from the plate to the block and an alignment dowel from the plate to the trans bell housing. As 57chizler said that alignment is critical. Seems to me .002 - .003 runout is acceptical. It's a PITA doing it, but necessary. Jerry | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | The locating dowels on my 1960 Plymouth 318 bell housing & block are just below and inbound from the bolt holes at 3 and 9 o'clock. Otherwise, the bell looks right (single piece bell & starter plate, 3 bolt starter and so on). | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Hi Guy's I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor which would of had dowels & lined up. Probably the reason why when I got it it wasn't working...It's now my job to sort it out | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | 57chizler - 2018-04-01 8:35 AM Installing a transmission the correct way involves dialing the bore of the bellhousing to make sure it's centered on the converter. The parts might go together without this step but misalignment could cause early failure of the trans. The FSM is your friend here. Yes I agree John I have had an alignment problem with another car years ago it caused the front bearing to fail & cracked the weld on the pump drive on the converter. The biggest problem here in Oz nobody seems to know anything about aligning the trans & motor. This is my biggest concern I don't want to have to do it again. Thanks Graham | ||
RICKYMOPAR |
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Veteran Posts: 292 Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | That's the answer, early A engines and late A engines have different dowel pin locations. From your post. I think my main problem is I have the original trans & bell housing but the motor has been swapped at some stage & they used a later model poly which is different see previous pic & they removed the dowels If you look close at the pic of the bell housing you can see the stain from the original motor which would of had dowels & lined up | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | Yeah some one over there in the US did the swap back in the 80's from what I was told probably the reason it was off the road for 25 years. My problem is the motor should have an all alloy trans unless I can find a early poly block & swap it I'm stuck with what I've got. I will start my search for a bell housing to suit if they exist. I am going to more than likely just see what happens once it is ready to fire up as poly's are not very common here in Oz. If all else fails I will have to go either BB or late model LA motor & trans not keen on that I wanted to keep it basically standard | ||
RICKYMOPAR |
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Veteran Posts: 292 Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | Here is an other possible problem/problems. How many bolt holes are in your crankshaft flange, and are they threaded? Don't give up. I think there might be a solution. Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 5:10 PM | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8444 Location: Perth Australia | It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it | ||
RICKYMOPAR |
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Veteran Posts: 292 Location: Colorful Colorado skier on the license plate | I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November. Edited by RICKYMOPAR 2018-04-01 9:53 PM | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | 8 holes not threaded | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | RICKYMOPAR - 2018-04-02 1:36 PM I am wondering if you dial in the bell housing, secure the position and using machinist centering punch through the new block locating pin holes, to your bell housing. Then machine the bell housing to accept the locating pins in the now needed location. We can still get front pump sleeves, sold my last NOS torque convertors last November. this is basically what I have done except I haven't drill any dowel holes as I don't know if it is in line. Once I fire it up & all is either working ok I'll drill some locating holes or if it fails......lets not talk about that. | ||
OzFury |
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Veteran Posts: 172 Location: Newcastle, NSW AUSTRALIA | ttotired - 2018-04-02 10:28 AM It had all been together and running once Rick, so it will go again I do wonder about the alignment as that could be the reason that the pump sleeve died Poly blocks can be had, but are hard to find, except, I have 2 here, well 3 actually, but 1 has a crack in it Only thing is, I havnt checked them to make sure they are ok and are 60 era blocks not 62/3 blocks when they changed Personally, I would probably just give it a try and worry about it if it breaks All that time and money and you still havnt got to drive it yes the motor ran Mick but I never seen it drive only told buy the seller he drove it. I don't know how after pulling it out & finding the pump drive sleeve not engaged (see previous posts in this thread for pic's) unless they towed it to get the rear pump working. either way it's my job to get it back on the road cruising. If you want to spend countless amounts of $$$ & hours working on a car go drag racing...this is easier & I do have my drag car driveline sitting here a 500+HP stroked 360 will get the old girl haulin one way or another I will be hitting the streets soon with The Bitch Edited by OzFury 2018-04-02 12:22 AM | ||
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