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Attaching 57 Plymouth to Rotisserie? Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> 1955-1961 Forward Look MoPar General Discussion | Message format |
HemiSportFury |
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Member Posts: 38 Location: SW Colorado | Anyone have any pictures of how you attached your FL car and frame to a rotisserie? Looking for ideas about how to fab a connection from the rotisserie to the bumper connection points on the frame. Done several B-bodies but this is the first full frame car I done on a rotisserie. Thanks for your help. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | There isn't much point to putting it on a rotisserie with the frame still on it. The frame would get in the way of doing a lot of the metal repair work. So everyone that I have seen do it, mounts it to the body without the frame. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I see these guys mostly make sure they have extra support bars welded inside and across the doors as the floorpan is a big structure part and usually gone. | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740 Location: Alaska | I will try to post a pic. but as stated above, it is best to remove body from frame before bolting to rotisserie. I bolted mine at the front body mount at the firewall and at the rear mount point in the trunk. My rotisserie is homemade and I believe strong enough but I also did not want to put too much weight on it. | ||
HemiSportFury |
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Member Posts: 38 Location: SW Colorado | My floors are very good so I do not necessarily need it on the rotisserie for that. I do need to do a little work on the quarters and having it on the rotisserie for that will make it easier by being able to position the work for best access. I plan on raising the body up 4" off the frame with spacers which will hopefully give me enough room for cleaning and painting the underside of the car. Once that is done I will take the body off the frame and just work on the frame on the rotisserie. It just seems to me that mouthing the body alone with no frame or additional support runs a risk of bending or twisting the body. I guess I'll see how this works and posts pictures if it works out ok. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Without the frame, you would have to install braces at doors for sure to stiffen body because of flex. https://www.accessiblesystems.com/ | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8444 Location: Perth Australia | This is my 60 on my rotissorie, no frame (except sub frame to deal with, except its removed) (DSCN0482.JPG) (DSCN0483.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DSCN0482.JPG (157KB - 162 downloads) DSCN0483.JPG (145KB - 166 downloads) | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | HemiSportFury - 2017-04-30 12:06 PM My floors are very good so I do not necessarily need it on the rotisserie for that. I do need to do a little work on the quarters and having it on the rotisserie for that will make it easier by being able to position the work for best access. I plan on raising the body up 4" off the frame with spacers which will hopefully give me enough room for cleaning and painting the underside of the car. Once that is done I will take the body off the frame and just work on the frame on the rotisserie. It just seems to me that mouthing the body alone with no frame or additional support runs a risk of bending or twisting the body. I guess I'll see how this works and posts pictures if it works out ok. There is no body work that can't be done with equal spacers between body and frame, placed at every body mount position if required. In fact, if the frame used is the one to finally be used, there is no better "workbench" to work with. Here are pics of how I did it. The first two are to show the 30" posts I used. Secured body to frame with 36" lengths of threaded rod in the middle of each post. The next show replacement of inner rockers, outer rockers and quarter panel repair. The last is paint using 6" posts. Greg (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (141KB - 163 downloads) image.jpg (104KB - 146 downloads) image.jpg (119KB - 148 downloads) image.jpg (113KB - 154 downloads) image.jpg (133KB - 165 downloads) image.jpg (127KB - 152 downloads) | ||
Old Ray |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 507 Location: Invermere B.C. Canada - Rocky Mountains | LD3 Greg In fact, if the frame used is the one to finally be used, there is no better "workbench" to work with. So very true, thanks for the pictures, cool! Edited by Old Ray 2017-05-01 10:29 AM | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740 Location: Alaska | My 58 is a 2 door sedan with a B post and it needed very little rust repair but I had to repair the floors in the area of the front mounts. It would have been much harder to do on the frame. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | So, use several 6", 12", or whatever length posts you need to access the areas of work. Bolt the body tight to the frame and do your repairs. If you know how to weld all will be perfect!. Greg | ||
Niki0beas |
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New User Posts: 1 | Your posting solved my problem. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | I would think about some cross bracing but imagine if you had telescoping poles adjustable even | ||
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