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lonesome mopar |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 397 Location: Milano, Italy | Hello gang, I have been searching the post of the last ten years but I couldn't find anybody comparing the quality od the several rod bearings brands on the market. bi-metal ? tri-metal ? Silicone ? Does anybody know which kind is more suitable to rebuild a '58 Poly engine which has to be regrind to -0.030" under ? (yes, old engine and bad luck) thanks..................... | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9681 Location: So. Cal | Rather than cutting the whole crank down to .03" under, you can often just weld up one rod to bring that one up to spec with the rest of them and only go .01" under. That way, if you have issues on the next rebuild, you won't have to deal with all of them being too small. As far as bearings, I have always used tri- or bi-metal bearings, but I didn't really have a lot of choices building old hemi motors. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/12/engine-bearings-under-press... | ||
lonesome mopar |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 397 Location: Milano, Italy | Thanks a lot for the info Chuck ! I printed it and I am going to study it carefully. @ Nathan: I am afraid I wish I could do that, but all the other crank surfaces are badly scored too. Unbelievable but true, the guys at the machine shop messed up and gave me a regrind crank unwashed. When I started the engine all the debris inside the passages went under the rod bearings and chewed everything. Now I have a big deal to solve with that machine shop. | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | Sorry to hear that. But I would be inclined to say you will lose that discussion because it's an engine builders responsibility to clean parts, every part, before installation. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Sounds like they owe you a new crank. | ||
wayfarer |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 888 Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | ...he said...she said... good luck with getting anything from the shop. All of the current bearings are 'good' for just about anything the average car guy will need them to do. Not knowing what engine you have make suggestions a bit more difficult. "58 Poly" can be a 354 Spitfire or a 318 A series. For the 354 you will either use what ever bearing you can buy in the undersize you cut to or you can weld-up and go back to standard. The 318 is a common bearing but not likely any past 030. I have some NOS bearing sets at 040 and 060 u/s so 'back in the day' it was not unusual to make big cuts to use a damaged crank. 0.030 is most certainly not a 'bad' size to cut. Edited by wayfarer 2017-05-22 10:41 AM | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | dang never heard of that happening but I wash everything down no matter what. Most machine shops that I see should be condemned by the board of health... | ||
lonesome mopar |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 397 Location: Milano, Italy | Thanks for the hint Gary. I did read the pages that Gary 60 Dart offered and I found them a very useful info. As for my engine it come from a 1960 chrysler, don't remember which and it is definitely a 318 A - Polyspherical. Btw I got the bearings from Rockauto (.030 main and .040 rods) and I am going to rebuild the engine with that. As for the issue ith the machine shop, the boys are the sons of the machinist I used to bring my engines since the Eighties, so I am not going to do anything except for a sad look. They are regrinding the crank without charging me and I bought the parts myself. Let's live in peace and harmony...... | ||
62 413 |
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Veteran Posts: 296 Location: South Central PA | Years ago you could by these locally ,not sure about now,have them in everything I own,none better ! http://www.vandervell.co.uk/ul Edited by 62 413 2017-05-26 11:06 PM | ||
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