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Tricks to removing front wheel bearing cups from the drum Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | I wanted to fully prep the "new" (to me) right front 12" x 2.5" drum on the 56 CR D-500 with new inner and outer bearings and seal before the car goes in for complete brake renewal tomorrow AM. (The old drum was 12.095" (max is 12.090". The new drum (12.040" ID) came with the inner and outer bearing cups still in the drum. I knew that but thought that I could just bang them out and put the new ones in. Nope, at least with the tools that I have. So I packed the new cone bearings with wheel bearing grease and installed them in the old cups so I have at least done something. Then I added a new Chicago Rawhide 17115 seal. But it bothers me that a) I failed and b) that the cups aren't the new ones that I bought. So what is the trick to remove the cups? (I will probably have to bump this thread in the AM because it is 7:46 PM here now and that New Message list disappears/resets at somebody's midnight. Seal same as this but new. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | I would have removed the old cups. Clean out the old grease so you can see and place the drum on a concrete floor, position a good quality drift and pound them out. If you did pound on the old cups you may have dislodged them from their seats! Greg | ||
miquelonbrad |
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Expert Posts: 1737 Location: Hay Lakes, Alberta, Canada | You can use a bearing/seal driver tool. They come in a kit. Princess Auto carries them here, which is where I bought mine. If you are in the U.S.A., I'd go to Harbour Freight Tools... | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | miquelonbrad - 2016-11-21 11:44 PM You can use a bearing/seal driver tool. They come in a kit. Princess Auto carries them here, which is where I bought mine. If you are in the U.S.A., I'd go to Harbour Freight Tools... Thanks guys. So a)I didn't have right tool and b) I didn't try hard enough. There is a Princess Auto near by so I will check them out. I won't be driving the car much after it comes back from the brake shop today (I hope) so I will change cups (as I wanted to originally and others have suggested) after I have the proper tools (and a bigger hammer) | ||
DepsilonD |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 792 Location: Buena Park, CA | There is enough space to beat them out from their respective backsides (relative term). And then use the old cups to insert the new ones. | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | Yep, get a punch at least 12" long and maybe 3/4" round. The lip on the cup(race) for the punch to grab on may only be 1/4", sometimes there's a couple of "easements" in the hub where you can get more bite. I'd never trust the cups(races) that come with the hub, new or used. They're to be a "matched set". I also try to only buy Timken made in the USA bearings and races. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | b5rt - 2016-11-22 1:26 PM Yep, get a punch at least 12" long and maybe 3/4" round. The lip on the cup(race) for the punch to grab on may only be 1/4", sometimes there's a couple of "easements" in the hub where you can get more bite. I'd never trust the cups(races) that come with the hub, new or used. They're to be a "matched set". I also try to only buy Timken made in the USA bearings and races. I saw a couple (3? 4?) of what you call easements on the inside of the hub. I tried to get the cups out but not very hard. I didn't want to get stuck half way out or c0ck-eyed, so after my quick pathetic try, I quit. Now that I know that I just needed more brute force, I will get the old ones out and the new ones installed. The new bearings are NOS Timken, still in their waxy paper, in their original boxes. Same with the cups. I will also learn about adjusting center plane brakes. (oh boy). This is what I found on Princess Auto's website (Lisle 12600) Bearing Race and Seal Driver kit: Edited by 56D500boy 2016-11-22 2:11 PM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13054 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Nope, those won't work at all. In the hubs, down in the bearing race seat, there's two recesses at 180 degrees. You need a brass driver (practically a rod of brass 3/8 or 1/2" diameter 3-4 inch long). Tap the bearing races alternated in the two recessions with a hammer - if the race starts to tilt too much, then tap on the other side. After that the races are out, clean the inside of the hub very carefully from eventual chips of the brass driver. Do NOT use a steel driver as the races are hardened and may chip in very sharp small pieces. Do not use the old races for to mount the new ones as on or the other might chip. Use the brass driver or a piece of flat soft iron. Clean the inside of the hub very carefully with compressed air after that the races are mounted. | ||
b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | The set above will work for driving the new races in place but like Wiz says, not for driving the old ones out. You shouldn't get the old ones ****ed either, alternate hits on either side works well. Be sure to pack the new bearings correctly with proper wheel bearing grease and not simply rely on whatever grease they came from the factory with. | ||
58coronet |
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Veteran Posts: 139 | At work we use key stock to drive cups in. It is harder than brass but softer than the hardened steel of the cups and won't damage the cups. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1139/4205243/ (racedrivenout1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- racedrivenout1.jpg (63KB - 213 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9911 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mstrug - 2016-11-27 10:41 AM http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1139/4205243/ Thanks to all who replied. I'll get 'er done. | ||
flathead4848 |
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Member Posts: 5 | if you have a stick welder put a few beads in the center of the cup and they will come out very easy. I did this for years on semi trucks and trailers. | ||
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