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Member
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Location: Huntersville, NC USA | I was working on the brake lines and noticed a coolant bubble on a freeze plug. Moved some dirt and oil and of course it got worse. Checked the rest and all looked like they had moisture working through them. I only found 2 per side but I thought there were 3 on V-8s, anyway they're flush with the block, aren't concave and no sign of a rim; could they be original? I'm guessing I can poke a hole in them, pull them out, emery cloth the rims and use a standard aftermarket plug that fits. Wow that sounds pretty simple huh. I'm finding that I should add 2 hours to any estimated job but I'm having fun and that's all that matters, and I'll keep telling myself that until it no longer applies. SO, does anyone have any words of wisdom that could possibly make this job any more fun. |
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Expert
Posts: 3035
  
Location: N.W. Fla. | it doesn't have modern freeze plugs. They are disc type. There's a lip that they sit on & then you install by putting a ball peen hammer's round end in the middle & whacking the hammer with another one. Shouls put some sealer on the lip when you put the plug in place to whack it. 331s have 2 per side. |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
 
Location: Michigan | I like the traditional ones. |
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Expert
Posts: 3035
Location: N.W. Fla. | Some people when they have the engine @ the machine shop for an overhaul have the shop use an end mill to convert it to modern plugs. |
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Location: North Australia | Freeze plugs replacement on an installed V8 aren't much fun! Here is an old thread that might help if you aren't familiar with installing this type. I believe this type require special care to install correctly, ask me how I know 
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forum...
Hope this helps,
Steve. |
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Member
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Location: Huntersville, NC USA | Read the freeze plug threads you guys provided. Thanks. Mine has 3 per side, i.e., 1 behind the motor mount (of course), 1 mid-block and the next behind the starter with three more similarly positioned on the other side. I don't plan on pulling the motor (working in the driveway and the HOA Pres already has me on his radar) and since those under the mounts show no signs of leaking I'm going to spare them for a while. I know I should do all at once but it is what it is. Besides, the wiring is kicking my butt in the moment. Apply the brakes and the left front turn lights up but when I hook things up per the schematic the turn indicators don't work and did I mention the horn toots rather loudly (trumpets sound like an 18 wheeler) when I move the turn signal lever. I imagine it's a short of some kind most likely in the steering column. There's 6 wires coming from the column, 2 brown (front & rear right side lights) 2 green (same but left side) 1 white (stop light switch) one black (horn). When I turn the wheel or screw with the turn lever the horn blows. About all I can do is to keep following wires. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | Horn should be an easy fix, steering wheel off and look around the indicator switch, the short (squashed or rubbed through wire) will be just there
Elaborate a bit more about the blinker fault
When you push the brake, it sends power to the stop lights via the blinker wire (rear only, of coarse), so if the front one is coming on, either the stop light power is coming down the wrong wire, sending it to the front and not the rear or the wrong globe is in the stop light and its actually the front parker coming on or its a bad earth connection on that stop light, again, causing the front park light to come on
Hope this helps
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Member
Posts: 15
Location: Huntersville, NC USA | Yep, your advice got me headed in the right direction. I located the issue, okay, they wife found it but whose keeping score... I had the wires crossed. All electrical is working, turned out the generator had some faulty fields; 120 bucks later she's whirring just fine. The horn still toots when I turn the wheel or mess with the turn signal lever. No sign of a wiring issue. My wheel is cracked pretty bad with maybe a 16th inch crack on the spoke and a little smaller one wrapping around the column. I think there could be a warp there causing the contact to hit the turn signal lever but I haven made the time to take serious measurements yet. Possibly this weekend. Haven't tried the brake conversion yet; the brakes still feel a little squishy so I may need to bleed them again after a test run in the neighborhood.
Still looking for a steering wheel and the Windsor script that goes under the trunk (under the Chrysler script).
Ron
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | Glad I could help
PM me your contact details and I will send the invoice 
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Freeze plugs on a 56, 331
