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Member
Posts: 11
| Will a Chrysler mini starter be a direct fit in this car? A original normal size gear reduc. starter hits the torsion bar. The whole problem is when your starting first time from a longer sit. Right when the car gets gas pumped up and tries to fire the direct drive starter kicks out to fast (inherent in design) and there is already plenty of gas. Will flood. The gear red. starter would stay in the flywheel as long as you're holding the key. That's all I would need. Also, when first starting, would turning the timing back to TDC from it's normal 10 deg. setting assist the problem? Thanks a lot! |
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Expert
Posts: 3778
    
Location: NorCal |
You're saying the only thing preventing the gear reduction starter fit is the torsion bar interference? The bolt pattern should be way different. |
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Member
Posts: 11
| Thanks. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Shouldnt have to mess with the timing
I would look at the entire tune of your car though, as it should start fine with the starter it cam with
Inertia starters can be a pig doing what your describing, but they only kick out if the engine fires, so, if it fires, then stalls, it means that something is not right in the tune side of things
You are right in saying that a positively engaged starter will stay in mesh as long as the key is held, but with the fault your describing, the pinion clutch wont last that long (comparatively) as the fault will try to over speed the starter, causing the clutch to slip and then grab as the engine tries to re fire
English cars were also sufferers of this problem
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Expert
Posts: 3778
Location: NorCal |
While the starter drive (Bendix drive) is intended to kick out when the engine starts, a weak Bendix will sometimes kick out prematurely. Replacing the Bendix (Bernbaum has them) might be all that's needed. |
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Member
Posts: 11
| Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll get this sorted out yet. Everything's new or rebuilt there and has elec. ign. I installed. The kicker is it starts wonderful if it hasn't been sitting for more than a couple wks. It just has too much gas from the cranking and the firing is so suttle when it's ready to pop and the bendix is backed out in a fraction of a second! the only deviation from stock is the 600 cfm Edelbrock 4 barrel w/ manual choke. Thanks again. I'll give you an update! Brian. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | Hmmm, I see you said manual choke.... I wonder if that's your problem. With automatic chokes the choke almost always will pull off (open up slightly) after a few seconds of engine crank. Either the choke plates themselves naturally open slightly, which are 'unbalanced' and will open simply from air being pulled thru the carb, or the vacuum choke pull-off mechanism will force the choke slightly open as soon as some vacuum builds up. WIth your manual choke you may be pulling the choke fully closed and also preventing it from opening up at all during crank (like an automatic choke would). As a result a strong vacuum from the fully closed choke plate may be pulling a ton of gas into the carb and manifold and flooding it. Figure out where to position your choke knob so that there is still about a 1/16" open space between the edge of the choke plate and the carb. You could start with it fully closed but after a couple of seconds of cranking push the knob to that 1/16 position to avoid flooding it as you continue to crank. |
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1959 Belvedere Starting Issues After Sitting
