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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> General Technical Discussion and Troubleshooting | Message format |
trashc |
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Regular Posts: 91 Location: Sebastian, Fla. | My 59 fury ate my turn signal return mechanism ,all I have left is 2 small clips and 1 spring. Unable to reconstruct without a detailed diagram. Can any help with a place to locate a picture! Do I have all the parts to reasemble ? Also 1 more problem,I hear a rather loud metallic sound when I shift from drive to reverse or vice versa. Is it my powerglide or possible the rear end! Thanks | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3778 Location: NorCal | trashc - 2015-03-27 4:10 PM Also 1 more problem,I hear a rather loud metallic sound when I shift from drive to reverse or vice versa. Is it my powerglide or possible the rear end! Thanks :stressed: Your Powerglide? Only if it's a Chevy. Look a couple of posts down for the clang. http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=56978&... | ||
57desoto |
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Expert Posts: 1488 Location: New Castle PA | Not sure on a 59 Fury, but this is what the mechanism looks like for a 57 DeSoto. (turn_signal_switch.jpg) Attachments ---------------- turn_signal_switch.jpg (66KB - 130 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Without looking up my archived info, the two grayish-brown pawls, above, control the signal switch cancellation. One of the pawls' points shows a little more rounded-wear (or natural-condition) than the other one. You want to have (relatively) as curved-sharp of pawl-points as possible. Also, you want to ensure that the sides of the pawls do NOT slide-contact against the switch's pot metal body (like the left-side pawl may be doing, right now)..because that contact will inhibit the turn signal switch's being able to re-set itself at the end of a turning movement. In fact, to ensure an operational gap between a pawl and a switch's body, I had had to file-down the thickness of a pot metal arm, to create that gap between the pawl and the switch-body, at their contact point. Keep those joint-connections greased-up. And, if you want go 'nuculer' [-G. Bush] on the switch, you can increase the draw-spring's tension on the switch's body, too. Edited by d500neil 2015-03-29 3:50 PM | ||
trashc |
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Regular Posts: 91 Location: Sebastian, Fla. | Hey great! That picture shows everything I need to know! Thanks! As for the powerglide statement, sorry ! Your right on the Chevy. From now on its powerflight! Just need to find the ping sound before something brakes! | ||
hoodinki |
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Veteran Posts: 119 | POWERFLITE | ||
JT Vincent |
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Expert Posts: 1493 Location: Jamaica Plain, MA | Ed's pic shows part of the assembly. The other part is a plate to be placed into the steering column, and, that holds the actual electric switch and wiring harness. This is attached by two screws going through 2 nylon bushings holding the above part to the lower. This floating part of the assembly is sprung to the stationary part, by a single W shaped spring, which has been known to break. | ||
trashc |
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Regular Posts: 91 Location: Sebastian, Fla. | Eds picture is just what I needed! Thanks! | ||
Fintail and Son |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 313 Location: New Jersey | Chris----Just saw your 3-27-15 entry. In the early 1980's I was driving my then 1957 Dodge coronet poly-4bbl-powerflight convertible to two-weeks reserve duty when I started to hear what you described when s**tfting from drive to reverse --a metallic clang. By the time I got to the fort my reverse band (in the transmission) had hit the dirt. Car ran perfectly well in drive. Hope your problem is solved by now.---Fred | ||
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