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Veteran
Posts: 201
Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Does anyone know of a good Brake Specialist in Perth that will be able
to work on the Bellows Power Braking system for my 1958 Plymouth
Thanks |
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Elite Veteran,, James Passed away March 2021, He will be Missed
Posts: 1028
 
Location: Melbourne, Australia | I don't know about perth , but I send all my items to power brakes in Adelaide. They are more expensive than other places but they do exactly what you would like and even call you to dicuss what finish you would like etc.. Well worth the money .
I have a 58 Cannister booster to have done also , and am thinking of sending it Dewey Boosters in the US as he does them every day . As Power brakes said they should be able to fix it , but ....
Edited by The Adventurer 2014-12-23 1:20 AM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 982
Location: Upper Hunter NSW Australia | ......
Yep Power Brakes have been doing all sorts of brakes for many years.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
 
Location: Perth Australia | Have you tried backing the adjustment off on the front brakes a bit?
If they are to tight, they will heat the drums and fluid ect causing everything to expand (maybe swell would be a better word) which will tighten things a bit further?
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Veteran
Posts: 201
Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | OK the main problem is, when driving the car on an open road/freeway at normal
speed the car is braking beautifully no noises or locking , once I start to drive in the city where there is a lot of slow speed
driving and starting and stopping that's when the problems start. When moving from a Stop position or start to slow down
the Brakes will start grabbing, and you can hear clunking and thudding on the front passenger side and then the noise stops
after I get to cruising speed.
The other problem is, and its happened a few times, I would be driving probably at 5- 10 mph, just touch the pedal
and the car would lockup on the driver's side and pull slightly to the right hand side and screech to a stop. Once I get back
driving on an open freeway at 50-60 mph it breaks beautifully again, its just goes crazy when I'm driving slowly and using
the brakes more in city driving |
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Veteran
Posts: 201
Location: Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia | Also one more thing, the car has the Kelsey-Hayes power braking system. The whole braking system
has been rebuilt with new master cylinder, new rubbers, seal and hoses. Drum brakes have been machined, new wheel
cylinders and rubbers and new shoes...so the works. cheers |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 390
Location: Brisbane | I had the exact same problem, haunted me for a while. Its all in the adjustment, adjust then take for a drive, adjust again then take for drive, i would adjust them finally when at operating temp, do exactly as the shop manual says. Also check your front end for wear in tie rods, steering box etc |
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Veteran
Posts: 148
Location: Mandurah, Western Australia | Perth Brake Parts have been there for years so you might find one of the older guys can help.
I agree with Coupeman, but you really need a gauge to set the drum to shoe clearance to specs. To adjust my 55 I used an old front hub off my 29 Plymouth, with a short length of flat bar bent sharply to L shape with a slot in one end, bolted to the hub pointing inwards (I didnt have a spare 55 hub, if I did I would need to cut the drum off to make the gauge). With the drum mounted, I first backed off all the adjusting cams to minimum, then adjusted the snail cams until the Ieading end of both shoes just touched the drum. This gives you a measure of the drum diameter. I then removed the drum and mounted the adjusting gauge and set the flat bar to just touch the leading end of each shoe, which is equal to drum diameter. I then slightly backed off the snail cams to set clearance to spec at the leading end of each shoe, then adjusted the trailing end cams to set the clearance at the trailing end to spec. This alters the leading edge clearance also, so you have to go back and readjust the snail cams, then go back to trailing edge cams and adjust them again. I found you had to repeat this several times. I then mounted the drum back on and checked that it rotated freely.
You can use a similar process on the rear brakes but they are much easier as you can bolt the L shaped bar directly to your hub.
This worked a treat for me on the 55, having learned the hard way with my 29 Plymouth which uses a similar setup.
Hope this helps |
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