|
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
 
Location: Central New York | Hi everyone, getting ready to pull the motor this weekend. All the plumbing and electrical have been disconnected.(Am I forgetting something?)
Can anyone(or everyone) tell me where all the attaching points are. (nuts, bolts, mounts) Also, it appears that the torsion bar mounts are integrated with the trans. cross member. Do I have to take the bars out to get the cross member to drop out to free the trans. ??
I see the four bolts the are attached to frame. Is that all that's holding that in ? Sorry if these sound like stupid questions, but I've never worked on a car of this vintage, and don't want to hurt it. Thanks. Phil. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 888
Location: Peoples Republic of Oregon | Not sure of what car you have but some trans mounts usually drop free with two bolts on each side. T-bars stay put.
Engine mounts vary with the style, three bolts to the block if you separate at that point and not at the cushion.
Exhaust manifolds.
Look for grounding strap(s) at the back of the head(s).
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
  
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | depending on the model/year , there may be 2 bolts on the top of the cross member also . one on each side kind of diagonal --------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-11-13 5:32 PM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Central New York | 1961 Plymouth Belvedere, 4dr, 318 poly, 727 TF ( I think) The cross member has 4 bolts, 2 towards the top of the mount, and 2 at the lower corners, at an angle from the top ones. The nuts look as if there tack welded to inside of the cross member. Granted, everything is dirty and rusted, but I've cleaned off what I could pretty well. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | 6 bolts to rear X member, the nuts are not welded (or wernt), the tortion bars will stay put, note the holes that the engine mounts are bolted through (rear holes on the subframe if its a poly) and how they bolt to the "ears" on the block, dont forget the speedo and trans cables, vacuum lines, tran cooler lines ect.
This job is MUCH easier with the front clip off (assuming its still on), I think it took me 4 hours (by myself and not knowing what I was doing exactly) to remove it
 (dodge front clip 046 small.JPG)
Attachments
----------------
 dodge front clip 046 small.JPG (94KB - 91 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Central New York | Thanks, ttotired. I see the four bolts on the outside of the cross member, I don't see 2 more. It would be great to be able to remove the front clip, however winter has begun in earnest here in the northeast (cold winds and blowing snow) so this project has been moved into a rather small one car garage and space is at a minimum.
Are the 2 bolts (and nuts) that go through the "ears" on the mounts the only 2 holding the motor in? Everything else in disconnected. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3034
Location: N.W. Fla. | Did you un-nut the torque converter to crank studs?
Edited by Mopar1 2014-11-15 8:22 AM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Central New York | Going to pull the trans and motor as a unit. That's why I wanted to know about the trans. cross member, because I can't get the park brake drum assy. off and it's not going to come out with it on. I've pulled a bunch of Mopar powerplants before, mainly B and E body stuff, but this is my first venture into FL cars and I want to do things correctly. That's why I check with everyone here before I do something silly. I really appreciate everyone's input. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | I don't understand why you can't disconnect the drive shaft from the parking brake assembly on the back of the trans.. its only 4 bolts. Then the engine and trans come out as a unit... once you disconnect two engine mounts and one trans mount. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Central New York | You're right Beltran, The D-shaft has been disconnected already. The rear end is out too (don't know what I'm going to do with that yet).
I just wanted to know where all the attach points were on the trans and motor so I didn't start yanking on stuff and find a surprise. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | I guess you can get them out as a unit, but I will say that even with the front clip off, it was very tight getting the engine and trans out, then back in.
There is vitually no tilt room, dropping the steering arms might help?
When I removed the engine and trans from mine, I also left the pbrake on the end of the trans
 (Engine 2613 006s.JPG)
Attachments
----------------
Engine 2613 006s.JPG (107KB - 93 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | Oh, and if you look at my poor engine crane, you will see that I was living dangerously as I was past its reach limits even at the boom out to the 250kg mark.
I am very sure that the engine and trans together is way heavier than that
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 157
Location: Central New York | And here I thought that was the factory sag that was built into it.  |
|
| |
engine removal questions.
