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Location: Buena Park, CA | Cheering you on Chuck! |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | nothin real fancy . maybe shoulda left the bell cast iron grey like the trans ---------------------------------------------------------later
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Buena Park, CA | Looks good Chuck! |
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Location: atlanta | Really gonna confuse folks with those valve covers, really nice, envy ya. |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks guys , the v-covers have a point , and you nailed it ---------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: So. Cal | Those painted covers look so purty that they put your finned ones to shame! Nice job. Looks like fun times are ahead. |
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Posts: 2120
Location: atlanta | Okay Chuck, what's going on, update requst please. |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | waitin for photos of z-bar + length . photos on where the pivot ball sits on the bell . yesterday i had to fit up the starter to the block saver/bell , no big problem there . i went out yesterday
afternoon to start er up . that was a no go . first thing i did was flood the darn thing and only being 12* , not started for @ 2 weeks . i need photos from all angles . then to top it all off looking
for a longer fork couldn't happen . our internet has been off for most of 2 days , intermittent . i need photos !----------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: NE Ohio | The whole package looks awesome |
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Expert
Posts: 2120
Location: atlanta | would the photo's of my car help? the motor trans is out so no problem, jus let me know. |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks DIF ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Fonix the frame side is pretty much a bolt up with the oem bracket stud . photos of the bell on the block ( ball stud location ) and length of the z-bar with photo . i'm thinkin i may need to
shorten the z-bar . my real main concern is maybe having to fab longer arms for the z-bar along with shortening . neither will present a huge problem but goin in and knowing kinda helps the brain
functioning straight ahead instead of thinkin of new cuss words when i get to the point of the unknown . i really don't like surprises when there's a way around em .
after shootin red up with heavy duty valvoline starting fluid she had a cold natured fire up . had to re-start er 4 times to keep er runnin . for me at least , 318's have always been cold natured -------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-01-30 6:22 PM
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Location: atlanta | I try to get some pics tomorrow. How's she sound? |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | sound ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it aint in yet . i aint no miracle worker ---------------------------------------------------------later ,, thanks |
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Expert
Posts: 2120
Location: atlanta | Chuck, here's some pics, I'll do the Z bar tomorrow, do ya need the fork out for pics? if theres a particular shot of something let me know, are the Z bar stud pics what your looking for?
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08-DSCF1167.JPG (166KB - 356 downloads)
06-DSCF1165.JPG (182KB - 262 downloads)
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | you're a good man roger . that was a ton of help , especially the next to the last one . found another problem i had to knock in the head . a 10 7/8" clutch fork is too short . so i went net lookin . i
found 3 sites with 12 1/2" forks , which i need . ordered one , next day couldn't fill my order . next site , ordered one , same thing . it's a discontinued part , #P4529451 . ok , backup plan . a guy on
ebay has one , bought it . a little on the high side @ 78$ used . i can't be choosy at this point . the only thing is i lost another 2 days .
i thought maybe refab one of the 2 short ones i have , nope . i took a file to one to test hardness . file wouldn't even knick it . so no filey , no weldey .
i'll be waitin watchin paint dry again , while waitin for the motor side pivot ball to get here also . i know i have 2-3 somewhere along with fork clips , i just don't know where they are . i've looked several
times but ya know how that surely turned out .
i can still use the length and photo of the z-bar . i'm thinkin it might just fit as is for length and fingers . if not i have a game plan for that to , refab ! i really need this motor and trans off to the side of the
garage to pull red in and start removing parts . i've got i think everything needed after this fiasco -----------------------------------------later |
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Location: atlanta | I'll get the Z bar pics tomorrow. |
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Location: atlanta | Sorry Chuck, couldn't get the pics today, will do tomorrow, my sister and her husband are multi-millionaires, they were supposed to fly to NY for the superbowl as guests of the govenor's of NU and NJ, their lear jet wouldn't crank and i had to go to the airport and jump'um off, turned out the just ad a few fowled plugs in the engines and a hung float! |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | its tuff to have a hung float -------------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: atlanta | Chuck, here's the pics and some measurements for Ya, if ya need more or different pics, let me know.
The overall length of the main tube is 10" overall, from the inside tang for the clutch pedal rod to the outside of the main tube is 8 1/2", the length of the tang on the main tube for the adjusting rod going to the fork is 3 1/2".
Edited by fenix 2014-02-02 2:53 PM
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | ok , thanks a million but i could use more info . how long is the adjuster rod . on the end that holds the adjuster is there a groove on the inside or is the tube still fastened to the ball on the other
side . that will answer the groove question also . can you get the length of the tang on the other side , ( should be longer ) . the rod from the pedal could you possibly get that length also .
before the snow hit today , i brought red inside and removed the entire left corner and grill to have a peek . by looking at both motors and how things are situated , i'm thinking i'm going to need to
put the oem frame bracket back on the shelf and fab one to bring the frame side stud ball forward 1 1/2 - 2 ins. to line up with the new bell/motor . that's guessing with minor measurements and
eyeball but 95% sure for the frame bracket . i'm hoping the fork i bought will be here tomorrow , so i'll have to back red out to have room to pull the trans off again with the picker and install the new
fork . that should be the end of messin with that part of it . then i hope to proceed to old motor removal . if i'm seeing and thinking right , with the z-bar in place and everything operable , i should be
able to retain my ballenger headers in place . at least that's what i'm hoping ------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: atlanta | 60 dart - 2014-02-03 12:38 AM
ok , thanks a million but i could use more info . how long is the adjuster rod . on the end that holds the adjuster is there a groove on the inside or is the tube still fastened to the ball on the other
side . that will answer the groove question
The ajjuster to the fork? 3 1/2
The insde of the Zbar is attached, won't pull loose, i assumed it would slide out like the bell side, but no, unless i'm not tuggin' hard enough. There is no grouve on the inside of the Zbar main tube, just some nylon halves that capture the ball end on the bell.
also . can you get the length of the tang on the other side , ( should be longer ) . the rod from the pedal could you possibly get that length also .
Very hard to get in there, looks like he rod from the pedal goes to the tang on the inside, but it looks like it's inside the frame sortta. if it helps, the rod is ten inches from the end where it attaches to the clutch pedal to where it enters the floor with the pedal all the way up in driving position. It's wet as hell on the carport and hard to get in there.
Edited by fenix 2014-02-04 2:55 PM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | thanks buddy , all has been great help . when you measured the lever , did you measure from the tube for length or the total spline .
i got the new fork installed but looks to me like i have the wrong fork pivot . it doesn't fit the seat in the fork by being too wide . also looks like the fork is settin too far rearward , maybe not allowing enough
movement . the pivot is also off center bolt up . i think i need one centered .
my z-bar is
9 1/2 long
levers are
2 1/2 and 2 long
peddle rod to z-bar is
15 1/4 long
it might be of help to me to call brewers performance , tell em what bell i'm using and what direction i need to move in . but on the other hand , i like doin things the hard way --------------------------------------later |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | old motor is out , still on the picker , resting on the front cross member . i figured i'd pull it alone , all by myself and it went way smooth . ---------------------------------------------later |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | new motor sittin in loose . now to line everything back up , getting the pinion angle close , fab a trans mount . one nice thing is it looks like no need for a shifter tunnel , only a hole for the shifter
mechanism . i may transform the motor mounts to solid mounts using 3 grade 8 , 3/8's bolts . a good number of people recommend putting a 1/2" bolt thru the mount as a stop gap measure for a broken
or weak mount even i done it over the years . sittin back just lookin at the mount 1 bolt just doesn't seem right . 1 bolt would seem to want to put flex on the 1 bolt side of the motor mount ears . 2
would probably stop the flex but i like over kill so i'm thinkin 3 but if one does 1 side , the other side would have to be done also . the opposite side would still move and put pressure on the first side . so
3 bolts each side , make sure the block side bolts are good and tight with lock washers . takin these motors out and back in by myself ,i was thinkin it's going to be tuff . i was amazed at the ease , not
one cuss word------except for the headers !-----------------------------later |
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Location: N.W. Fla. | 60 dart - 2014-02-11 11:23 PM
. sittin back just lookin at the mount 1 bolt just doesn't seem right . 1 bolt would seem to want to put flex on the 1 bolt side of the motor mount ears . Exactly! Use 3 short bolts or you risk breaking the ears with a long bolt, I e don't! .  |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | hmmmm , i'm talkin about putting 3 bolts "through" the mount . not just using one of the ear bolts versus 3 . anyhow it aint happening today , it'll have to wait for round 2--------------------------------------later |
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Location: N.W. Fla. | 60 dart - 2014-02-12 12:04 PM
hmmmm , i'm talkin about putting 3 bolts "through" the mount . not just using one of the ear bolts versus 3 . anyhow it aint happening today , it'll have to wait for round 2--------------------------------------later Was you talking about lower to upper mounts instead of mounts to ears? |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i messed around fabbing a trans mount using an old 64 chrysler mount . first thing i did was check the rear pinion angle . it's @4.5* , so i'm using that number for the front pinion angle . i'll going with
the theory of , the angle can be 2 to 5* , but not less than 2 , with a difference between the 2 of no greater than .5* . so what i want is close as possible 4.5* at both front and rear . i also had to redrill
the trans mount holes as it is for a 64-65 tailshaft , now it's a 69-70 tailshaft with a slip yoke .
the z-bar i have is deffinately going to need work , shortened and longer levers . for the time being i think i'll fab up pedal rod just to see what i might need for length . i may even need to do some work
on the lever at the pedal but don't know yet .
the pistol grip shifter i was wanting to use , aint gettin it . it would have to set too far forward , neutral is just about at the dash . i do have the long laid back stick that came with the shifter kit and is bolted
on now with shift room to spare . the shift levers are close to the tunnel side but after the trans is bolted solid , just a little tweek with a pry bar on the side of the tunnel will make that work . about the only
tunnel fab i will have to do is fab a tower around the shifter with a boot square on top .
i had a real pisser happen with the E T aluminum wheels i wanted to use . yesterday i put em on the car to get em outa the way and put the old ones in front of the garage doors outside and told the neighbor
kid if he knew anyone that wanted them to just take em . well today while i was spreading salt out front on the ice he pulled up with his friends and i asked if he wanted em , to get em gone , so he took em .
my next step was to put the rear of the car on jack stands . so i could get under to get the pinion degree of the rear . got it up , went to turn the rear wheel by hand , it barely moved , turned hard . so what
the hell , it's rubbing the inner panel . not enough offset on the wheel . so then i had to go beg my old wheels back , got em back but still feel like a total ass or indian giver ----------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-02-13 12:47 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | rear end pinion 4.5* , front pinion 4.2* . built a good trans mount ,,,,,,,,,, twice . on to the z-bar setup . fabbed a stud ball plate for the fender side , with stud ball , good . fabbed at stud ball plate for motor
side , shortened the stud ball .5 in. . turned it down the snug press fit the receiver , temp peened the inside . shortened the z-bar @ 1 in. which removed the inside lever , ok . looked at it a second or 2 , pushed
on the clutch fork back , it barely hits the torsion bar ................so 4.5 and 4.2* , although good , won't work . i'm thinkin a shim between the trans mount and trans of 3/8-1/2" will bring it up but will change the front
pinion angle ,,,,,,,,, again , to around 2.5* . so that means the rear pinion angle needs to drop 2* and the only way to do it is with 2* axle wedges . very disappointing to say the least but the worst part is
wasting time doing it all over again , at least it will be right .
when i first went to the garage today , i started looking for the 2 nuts that hold the trans mount to the cross member , as last night i couldn't find them . now mind you , i'm only working in a 4x6' area under the car .
they are the same nuts i took off . nowhere to be found . looked through every can and jar i have for replacements 5/6 x 20 , aint got nun . so i look under and around , under the car for the 20th. time , no where
to be seen or found . discussded , i pick up my wonderful magnetic trouble light and the nuts and 1 missing washer were stuck to the magnet . i'm havin a fantabulus time -------------------------------later
ps. it aint that dammed funny 
Edited by 60 dart 2014-02-18 1:01 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Perth Australia | I feel for you on that one Check
Been there myself
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | come to find that the top gen. mount won't fit . it sits too high to fit the third mount bolt into the head . why , i think it's because the p600 intake i'm using to mock up isn't
machined down to receive the gen. mount . so i'll get the intake i'm going with and check that one out . in the end , at least for now it's going to be a top mount gen . maybe
if i can find , if i look , a later poly head that accepts an alt. mount . plans , build a top mount . the other thing , thanks to rodger reddish for taking the time to explain the
short comings of using the top mount , is the fan pulley has to be a shorter one by @ 1 1/2" . so in building one , i'll just move the gen. back --------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yesterday i re-routed the old side pipes to accept the new spitfire headers . waiting on good gaskets to finish em up . the more i looked at the gen. mounting for a top position , the more
it looked too high . maybe too high to take any chances of hitting the hood when closed and sucking down the insulation . soooo , here's the plan i'm going with and sticking with . what i'll do is
copy the right side , front 5" of the ballenger headers gen. mount . doing that i can bolt that new section on top of the spitfire header's using the front 2 bolts and connect to the 3rd. far front bolt hole
in the head . not such a big deal but time consuming cutting out all the parts needed to do the finished piece using a 6" wafer wheel . after that is fabbed up , it's just a matter of bolting the oem gen.
bracket to it and the oem adjusting arm . copying the end of the ballengers also takes the guess work out of aligning pulleys .
with this stroker motor and a front sway bar this car is going to seam like it's a totally different one . i may even install the new 6 leaf , 2" lift springs , i've had laying for 3 yrs. -------------------------later
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yesterday i decided that since the fuel pump eccentric doesn't seem to be getting oil , to put on a timing setup oiler . the earlier motors had them but seems they stopped oem ones @ 59 . if they were
continued after my books , 61 , i'm not sure . the older ones were built similar to the one i fabbed but point down to the left , i decided to go right side , just a little off center toward the rear . if it were to
be set at center it would be the center smooth part of the gear and not throwing as much oil all over . pointing left , most of the oil would be slug from the chain before it does much good to the pan . i
installed a new eccentric . i'm thinking there is something different on the newer crank that won't allow the oil to be picked up to sling oil to the timing set up . so i'll see just how it works . surely it won't
hurt to have more oil moving up front . i trimmed the pistons for clearance , re-installed the heads , set the valves . i also chased out the dampness out by using 2 quarts of WD40 with 3 quarts of rotella .
drained that after setting a few days , then 5 quarts of straight rotella and filter . total time spinning the oil pump was probably @ 20 mins. . the books don't call it an oiler , it's listed as a trough . seems
kinda funny , simply calling it that ---------------------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-11-02 12:14 AM
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brake rod and oiler 005 (500x375).jpg (142KB - 179 downloads)
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Location: atlanta | When that rocket takes off, I wanna ride!! Man what a long road Chuck, or should We call Ya Jobe |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | might end up like virgin galactic ------------------------------------------------later |
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Location: Perth Australia | You worry me with this oil thing Chuck
I was thinking about it, and I dont think I would have the same problem (I am tempted to pull the fuel pump to check though)
The oil return from the remote filter I have goes to 1 of the fuel pump bolts (its hollow), so that should spray plenty of oil on the chain (I think, hope)
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Posts: 2120
Location: atlanta | Mick, are You saying Your total oil return is through that fuel pump bolt? |
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Location: Perth Australia | Yep
(I know, I need a belt )
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yah , i would suppose your timing setup would be gettin enough oil considering the line to the fuel pump bolt would be the return line ------------------------------------------------later |
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Posts: 2120
Location: atlanta | Mick, that's ingenius, you've run it, right? how did ya adapt the fitting to the bolt, or is it drilled threaded rod? |
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Location: atlanta | 60 dart - 2014-11-02 12:12 AM
yesterday i decided that since the fuel pump eccentric doesn't seem to be getting oil , to put on a timing setup oiler . the earlier motors had them but seems they stopped oem ones @ 59 . if they were
continued after my books , 61 , i'm not sure . the older ones were built similar to the one i fabbed but point down to the left , i decided to go right side , just a little off center toward the rear . if it were to
be set at center it would be the center smooth part of the gear and not throwing as much oil all over . pointing left , most of the oil would be slug from the chain before it does much good to the pan . i
installed a new eccentric . i'm thinking there is something different on the newer crank that won't allow the oil to be picked up to sling oil to the timing set up . so i'll see just how it works . surely it won't
hurt to have more oil moving up front . i trimmed the pistons for clearance , re-installed the heads , set the valves . i also chased out the dampness out by using 2 quarts of WD40 with 3 quarts of rotella .
drained that after setting a few days , then 5 quarts of straight rotella and filter . total time spinning the oil pump was probably @ 20 mins. . the books don't call it an oiler , it's listed as a trough . seems
kinda funny , simply calling it that ---------------------------------------------------later
That's pretty swift there too Chucks, is that the same design as the original ones? my 61 and 66 motors didn't have oil slingers or capturer's either. |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yah pretty much , only i angled it to the right instead of the left . it'll slop more oil upward to where i need it ------------------------------------------later |
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | perth , does the hose from the block screw directly into the block casting , then to the can -----------------------------------------------------later |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 594
Location: Melbourne, Australia | Lots of Polys in Right Hand Drive configuration run the remote filter and feed lines out here, ex factory ! 'Coz the canister filter hits the new steering box... Micks sure is pretty though !! Colin |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8444
Location: Perth Australia | There is a sort of dome that takes the place of where the filter is on the US ones
I will try to dig one up and put a picture up of Chuck
The filter element that gets used would be the same as the US one
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | 3 weeks ago i sent my engine builder/machinist an email . he answered by stating he'd come over to have a look at whats goin on with the motor . a few other things were said and i stated i can't afford to keep throwing
money at this motor , never heard back . 3 days ago i sent him another email stating i hoped i hadn't said anything to piss him off . so today , saturday late , i got this email back from him .
Chuck your not gonna piss me off . i understand frustration and dealing with engines . just been super busy. when i get a chance ill email you . is your garage heated ? i can come over and give you a diagnosis
and we'll figure this out . this isn't about money its about getting your old girl running so quit fretting about money .
so maybe in a few days i can get answers as to just what is wrong . if it weren't for the overheating problem everything else would fall into place . maybe removing the thermostat and a new larger radiator by volume
will help . i'm hoping something good shakes out . -------------------------------------------------------later
Edited by 60 dart 2014-11-16 2:49 AM
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Location: Perth Australia | I hope it all works out Chuck, Its gotta be pissing you off (as well as being dis heartening)
Fenix
I missed your post above, the bolt in the fuel pump is factory, its hollow, but instead of a normal bolt head, its like a female brake fitting (if that makes sence)
If I dig up another one down the track, i'll post a picture of it
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Location: N.W. Fla. | 60 dart - 2014-11-16 1:48 AM
. maybe removing the thermostat and a new larger radiator by volume
will help . A bigger radiator may help if yours is too small. My understanding is running no thermostat can cause it to run too hot from lack of time in the radiator for the water to cool off, though that might not be a problem in the mountains in Winter... |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i can remember as a kid removing a thermostat on some motors of different makes . some got hot and some didn't ---------------------------------------------later |
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318 poly stroker
