|
|
Regular
Posts: 72
Location: USA - IL | Hi There, I have a 59 Plymouth with a 318 and I have an oil leak at the valve covers and the rear of the intake manifold. The old intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets had no gasket sealer on them at all. I thought that was a little odd. I got new gaskets (Felpro) and installed them using hi temp gasket sealer. The intake seemed fine (I thoght)but the valve covers still leaked. After removing them again I also seen coolant under the valve covers. (not much)Should I be using gasket sealer at all? Do I I need to install more? On the valve covers, they only have 2 bolts to hold them down and no matter how tight I tighten the bolts they still leak. The gaskets don't really even have that groove in them from the valve cover that would make a good seal.The gaskets are made of some kind of a rubber material. It's been a while since I've replaced gaskets but I seem to remember they were made of cork which seemed to always seal. Any help would be appreciated before I install new gaskets again. Thanks, Brian |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 174
Location: Camptown PA | Maybe for valve cover mating surface isn't flat anymore. Put the valve covers on a flat surface and see if they make contact all the way around. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
   
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if you use offenhauser intake gasket # 5433 , they are soft gaskets and need no sealer . the steel ones recommend to seal around each port . if i remember correctly , the intake bolts should be
torqued at 30 ft. lbs. . the v-covers if they are tin , sounds like they weren't tightened enough . use a 3/8 ratchet , gripping about half way on the handle to tighten em down . keep going till you
can feel a greater resistance to tightening . it's a pretty good ways . as i have found the center of the head sealing lip is higher in the middle on the exhaust side making it seal good against leaks ,
but if they aren't tight enough the ends will leak and i'd much rather use the rubber than the cork as they are hard to ruin and can be used again . cork can split real easy if tightened just a touch too
much . no need for sealer on the v-covers either . once you get the v-covers on , warm up the motor and check em again for tight as an added measure if you aint sure --------------------------------later |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 72
Location: USA - IL | I will check that for sure,Thanks |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 72
Location: USA - IL | I will check to see how straight the v-covers are to begin with, next I'll see if I can find the offenhauser gaskets. If I am able to find those then all the gaskets don't use any sealer? what about the 2 end gaskets for the intake? Also I wanted to say you were right on with the intake torque of 30 ft lbs. For the v-covers they call out 36 in lbs for the ends and 20-25in lbs center( that's under the "cylinder head cover screw and nut") My v-covers only have 2 bolts that bolt them on, one at each end. Is that the right torque to start out with? The felpro metal intake gaskets do tell you to seal around each port on both sides of the gasket. Thanks again guys for all the advice. Brian |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | the best price for the intake gaskets are from a guy on epay . just use gasket sealer "spray on" on the bottoms of the end gaskets and on both ends of the ends use black pcv where they join the sides , that'll seal
em up tight . when you set the intake down in place , start all the bolts , then half tighten , makin sure the end gaskets stay in place . 36in. lbs. is good for 60-62 vc bolts , but i like my way better------------------------later |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 72
Location: USA - IL | I did find those Offy gaskets from a guy on ebay. Should be here middle of the week. I'll give it a try next week. Thanks again for the advice |
|
| |
Gasket Issues
