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Removing pitted surface rust Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and Trim | Message format |
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | Starting to sand down my 60 adventurer to repair some areas and start body work, but have some minor rust issues. I attached a few photos to view. I got the rear quarter all sanded down to bare metal, but have surface rust that is pitted a little. I tried sanding as much as I could, but still rust. Usually I will blast a car, but this is minor and the car is nice and solid. I tried using some naval jelly with minor success...not sure if I left it on long enough..or l How long it needs to be on there. And, when I rinsed it off, made the quarter panel all yellow residue everywhere, so sanded it down again. Any other products out there anyone has tried with success?..I can buy a small sandblaster that does small areas but was looking for other alternatives. I saw something on American Restoration about using vinegar I think, and it doesn't harm the metal, just eats the rust. Thanks in advance for the advice. guy (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (85KB - 88 downloads) image.jpg (95KB - 88 downloads) image.jpg (80KB - 107 downloads) | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1740 Location: Alaska | I have used a product called "ospho" that is a typical rust converter. It turns the rust to iron phosphate, it turns black in use. You paint it on and let it set overnight and then paint over it with your primer. It works best after all the loose rust has been removed. | ||
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | I have used that stuff too in the past...but would like to remove the rust instead of sealing it in. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8444 Location: Perth Australia | I used a similar stuff called fertan, but the only way your going to get it out is with the sand blaster you mentioned (short of grinding the panel down to the lowest level of the rust, not good) You could try a coarse wire brush, but the sand will do it faster and better I got a kit that has a rubber thing that fits over the nozzle and catches most of the sand and puts it into a little bag (about the size of a dust bag for a sander) Wasnt bad, but a bit of a pain as you cant see what your doing | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8444 Location: Perth Australia | You could try electrolysis, but it would be pretty hard to do as you would need to seal a container to the panel so it would hold water? | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | wire wheel !-----------------------------------------------------later | ||
Phatton |
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Veteran Posts: 174 Location: Camptown PA | There is also a product called EVAPORUST This stuff removes rust chemically without damaging the steel. I use it to take rust off of bolts, brackets and small parts. It works really well- especially if you can submerge the part in the EVAPORUST overnight. In your case you could place a clean rag soaked with the EVAPORUST on the rusted area and leave it overnight. Then wash off the area with water, dry and prime. | ||
57plybel |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 594 Location: Melbourne, Australia | I used a product called " Ranex" (Australian ) it is a clear liquid, the consistency of water, and when worked into the offending steel, it dissolved the rust... Heavy rust took a few applications but it was not a convertor or encapsulator. It left the steel an even steel colour with only the pits remaining.... Months later it looks the same. I used it to treat a similar heavy etched bonnet/hood and did not want the black converted rust either.... If I remember I'll check out the active ingredient and post it for you.... feel free to remind me !!!
Colin | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6502 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | The Ospho we used on bare metal in the USAF, treated the surface of the metal. http://ospho.com/ Media blast the metal then use the Ospho then primer, High build primer and Paint. Filler for deep pits. http://www.tptools.com/USC-All-Metal-Body-Filler,1623.html Marc. Edited by mstrug 2014-09-22 12:47 PM | ||
fenix |
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Expert Posts: 2120 Location: atlanta | Nothing's gonna take out pits, I found some stuff a NAPA by Permatex that's the best i've seen at conversion, about 13 bucks a bottle, but it works great, a wire wheel will get most of the scale and get down to the nitty gritty, then this stuff converts it to iron phosfate?, I guess the difference is how much of whatever concoction they have in the bottle, bought some at Home depot in a spray can, absolutly useless, sprays on like black primer, might be working, but I have little faith in it. | ||
59 in Calif |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1102 Location: Hayward, Calif | Hey Guys, I'm using a product called 'Rust Seal' . It's a white colored liquid, when applied to a rusted surface, it turns the rusty area black and kills the oxidation process. when it gets applied to a non rusty surface it leaves a brownish residue. Sometimes I let it sit overnite, sometimes a few hrs if temp in the shop is over 75 degrees F. I added some pics of a door I just did. I used 120 grit and sanded the door down, but left all the black pitts. I then sprayed a primer/ filler over it. I use the primer/filler to help fill in some areas that are hard to see once the paint has been removed. I have also used it ( rust seal ) on heavy pitted areas, where replacing the metal would turn into a nightmare. I bought it at the paint store. I would recomend it, but to each their own. Jerry (rust seal 006.jpg) (rust seal 001.jpg) (rust seal 002.jpg) (rust seal 003.jpg) (rust seal 004.jpg) (rust seal 005.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rust seal 006.jpg (103KB - 102 downloads) rust seal 001.jpg (87KB - 109 downloads) rust seal 002.jpg (95KB - 107 downloads) rust seal 003.jpg (60KB - 97 downloads) rust seal 004.jpg (89KB - 106 downloads) rust seal 005.jpg (105KB - 135 downloads) | ||
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | Lots of great ideas., I have used some of the rust-to-primer products before and don't mind using that stuff in hard to reach areas., like inside frame rails, seams, and stuff like that...but on the top surface, I don't want my paint lifting or bubbling a few years later after I just spent all that time stripping the whole car by hand. The wire wheel gets it pretty good., but not good enough for me...so I went to Harbor Freight...I use to have a small spot blaster....lost it so bought another....it was half off today, so was only $7. WOW., cheap cheap...it came with five adapters for different applications. Add some blasting sand and I added an outer bonnet on the nozzle to keep the sand somewhat contained (plastic paint can top) and it is working great. Really wanted to get all those pits out...Takes a while for larger areas as the "bag" that holds the sand is not that big...but really nice for small rusted areas., takes the rust right out at about 100psi. Will post some picts of it in a few. (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (86KB - 108 downloads) | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | I have used vinager with less than desirable results. I have used the " Ospho" and it works much better. If you cannot submerge the rusty part, use rags or paper towels to keep the surface wet. A spray bottle works good. Most all of these products active ingredient is phosphoric acid...........................MO | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8444 Location: Perth Australia | Thats the sand blaster thing I was talking about, cost me a lot more than 7 bucks though It got a real work out when I was doing the rust on the dodge USA, the land of milk and honey and really cheap cool stuff | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7808 Location: Williams California | The roof and hood of my Fury was completely surface rusted, no matter how much I hit it with 40 grit paper, there were still thousands of small rust pits across both panels. I used metal etch [phosphoric acid] over both, and washed the residue off with dish soap. I primed then painted the car after all body work had been completed, and none of the rust ever reappeared even after over ten years use as a daily driver, rain or shine. ---John | ||
guyman |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 451 | Hey John...good advice, I like the evaporust too...may try that, or may take it to local blaster for a clean up. Edited by guyman 2014-09-28 12:04 AM | ||
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