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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | The alternator needs to spin faster at an idle to generate a field so the easy answer is to install a larger crank pulley, which is not possible in some applications. The round and square back alternator pulley is 2.5 inch, it would, in most cases, spin the alternator fast enough at idle with a 2 inch pulley, which no one makes. Anything smaller than 2” and the belt will not grip. To get an idea of how long we will sit on some pulleys if we do a production run, I am looking for an idea of how many people would be interested in buying one. Probably in the $20 - $50 range for cost all depends on the volume we run, but I don’t want to sit on them for years. Soooo who is interested? |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
  
Location: Netherlands | I won't be interested myself but to help the topic going;
- Steel or aluminium?
- If aluminium, will they be anodized (black) for looks and anti-wear properties?
I made myself a smallish double groove pulley once for my daily 73 Dart on which I installed a 3G Ford alternator.
The alt had a multigroove pulley first but I exchanged it with a homemade 2 groove pulley which I made on my lathe from some roundstock.
After 1.5 years of daily service the pulley is wearing a bit on the other groove which I only using on this car. I would think some anodizing would have prevented this.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Have not got that far yet, will be steel or anodized aluminum.
I am much confused on your photo, not to rag on it but, the Denso is more of a bolt up and it works with the factory regulator with better low RPM than the 3G. why did you go through the headache for building a pulley small 2” pulleys are ready available for the 3G or the Denso both are .67 shaft, which I think is 17mm if I remember right. But then again it looks like you are over 2” anyway which would be factory pulley. Wiring looks like a one wire conversion?
Yes anodizing the pulley is a good idea on aluminum, belts are surprisingly strong.
So one vote no, I don’t think we are cutting pulleys.
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | (Although the discussion about my particular car goes outside the forum's interest, I still would like to share it.)
I got this 3G alternator for free and my old original Mopar alternator just started making some scary noises so I decided to rig up the Ford alternator. And also to solve the no-charging issues at idle the Mopar alts usually have.
The engine in the car runs a nice 500-550 rpm in Drive, and while the original alternator gives up charging at these speeds, this alternator is already charging the battery with a healthy 13-14.4v charge.
With headlights on, heater on full and engine idling around 500rpm in Drive, the alt still keeps the voltage at 13.1v.
And ups to the max. 14.4v at 550rpm in Neutral with all powerusers on.
I wouldn't advice anyone with a Mopar to use this alternator as the mounting holes for the bracketry is not really compatible with stock Mopar stuff.
Some McGyvering is mandatory.
Here's a simple clip showing the voltage output at idle in Drive with headlights and heater on full.
(Next clip is almost the same only the engine in Neutral.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DhyEmEu2ks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-dyj95KThU
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? for you who have replaced the generator with an alternator.
