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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
 
Location: Park Hills, KY | All,
I am getting prepped to add a Vintage Air MKiv under dash system on my 60 Windsor. I have some questions.
I plan to add an alternator and I need opinions on which will best suit this project. Also, should I change to a 4 bbl manifold to compensate for lost power with the added AC?
Ian, I know you have stated that your generator works ok, but if you were starting new, would you add the alternator?
Lastly, I have found a bracket set for the 383 rb that VA sells. Are there any other components or issues I need to deal with with mounting to my block?
Thanks to all in advance! |
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Expert
Posts: 1506
Location: Colo Spgs | Chris
1. The AMPS used by even The Imperial Division was 35 AMPS* in the same years as your Windsor. This was the same as they went from using The Generator to The Alternators.
2. Every A/C Chrysler Division Car had a Fan Should*....
2a. Every A/C Chrysler Division Car had a Fluid Fan Drive*....
2b. Every A/C Chrysler Division Car had a A/C Water Pump*....
3. The Fluid Fan Drive** stops using energy from The Engine by 20 MPH and its Power Enhancement Gain to Cost Ration is less than $75 vs the cost of a Intake Manifold + The Cost
of Linkage + The cost of a Air Cleaner + The Cost of a Carburetor --- to get less Dyno Power than any Fluid Fan Drive.
4. For every 4 bbl A/C Vehicle that was sold --- they must of sold 200 2 BBL units.
Rodger & Gabby
COS
* This includes any Chrysler Corporation Vehicle that has The 361 - 383 or 413 Engine.
** The HD Part Number at NAPA is 271-303.
Edited by Rodger 2014-07-01 3:22 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Rodger,
Thanks for the input My car is not a factory A/C car. I am not sure if your are suggesting to move to the alternator or not.... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
  
Location: Perth Australia | While your messing with brackets, might as well do the alternator.
The extra power that new fan (fans if your putting a condensor fan on as well) will over tax the original charging system.
I would also surgest running a new heavy wire (fused or a circuit breaker) from the battery to a relay under the dash that can be turned on by the ignition to supply the power for your new a/c
The power used by the a/c will severly tax your original wiring, especially of you have some other things on as well
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | Cmangeot - 2014-07-01 6:50 AM
All,
I am getting prepped to add a Vintage Air MKiv under dash system on my 60 Windsor. I have some questions.
I plan to add an alternator and I need opinions on which will best suit this project. Also, should I change to a 4 bbl manifold to compensate for lost power with the added AC?
Ian, I know you have stated that your generator works ok, but if you were starting new, would you add the alternator?
Lastly, I have found a bracket set for the 383 rb that VA sells. Are there any other components or issues I need to deal with with mounting to my block?
Thanks to all in advance!
Virtually any quality alternator will do what you need, don't get sucked into paying a lot for a super hi amp one, anything 65 amps or more should be fine. A/C draws perhaps 5 to 7 hp, not enough IMHO to worry about changing manifolds over unless you already have one with carb and just want it on there. Nothing wrong with doing it, just isn't needed. People ran AC on engines with 90 hp, I think your 290+ 2 barrel can handle it. Is your 383 an RB?? If your's is like mine and if your AC mounts similarly you will find that the manifold bolt that the ground cable from the battery is bolted to will be "trapped" by the compressor. Not a problem unless you need to RR the cable so make sure you have a cable you are satisfied with on it now before you trap the bolt. Also if you do change manifolds, make sure the one you use has the same holes in it if any, and that it has no weird bosses or something that would interfere with the brackets or compressor. What did you come up with for your pulleys? I had a heck of a time finding ones that worked when I added AC. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Jim,
This is the 383rb. Mine does not have any ground going to the manifold that I am aware of. I do not have pulleys yet, however I was planning on leaving that to the installer to figure out. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Pulleys you say? Machine shop just finished mine, it’s rather stupid to put the alternator next to the exhaust, so I am swapping the alternator and AC compressor position, and I will not need any idlers. Next step build brackets. Your AC will draw 10-15 amps, that is why I has a 30 amp fuse, plan for another 30 amps in your charging system, but you have wiring and gauge issues to deal with if you have an amp meter, or you can bypass it.  
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | I wish I had room for that 4 groove pulley so I could run a double belt on my fan and PS but my engine is too close to the radiator and lower crossmember. I have to really tighten the single fan belt to keep the fan belt from slipping and squealing. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 524
Location: West Jordan | Been there done that, happy to have lots of room on this, all ready have a 12 inch fan between the condenser and the radiator. Hope to fit a 16 inch here but may run 4 9” electrics. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7207
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | Chris, My old system is a vintage Mark-IV and its been there since the car was almost new. I keep having thoughts about changing to an alternator but in reality I have never had an issue with the battery discharging to death other than one time I was in an early Spring parade with the windows down, had the heater on, and as the car was moving slowly the generator was dis-charging most of the parade route. My battery was quite weak after that issue and I have since replaced the battery last fall, and it was 6-7 years old at that point anyhow. So for now I'm leaving the generator on. I have my new compressor on but still trying to get a drier in there before we evacuate and re-charge.
My friend Ron Wenzel installed a vintage Chrysler AirTemp system in his 60 Polara last Spring - he used to do it back in the 60s in Saskatchewan. He collected the parts, - evaporator, condenser, compressor, pulleys, bracket etc. over several years. Anyhow it took him 3 months to put it all together and get it working. He put in a vintage RV-2 Mopar compressor, and an Airtemp under dash evaporator. He made up many of the lines himself but he said it was a huge amount of work... below is his.
Edited by imopar380 2014-07-02 6:24 PM
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 ron#2.jpg (155KB - 185 downloads)
ron#1.jpg (213KB - 184 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 1506
Location: Colo Spgs | Chris
What I did was to state what Factory A/C Equipted Vehicles have. The reason to fully learn and know the difference is an
Engineering Tech Course.
Every vehicle maker started using The Fluid Fan Drive in every vehicle by the middle 70's. They also placed a Fan Should with
every vehicle. The Fluid Fan Drive is first to better The Fuel Consumption Data and it happens better The Power to Weight Ratio.
The Fan Should is to increase The Volume of Air passing thru the Radiation at below 20 MPH - which lowers the heat while at
these slower speeds.
The A/C equipted Engines also have a double grove pulley to insure no slippage due to the load. The Pulley Diameter is also
larger than what you have in your non-A/C Unit.
The selection of Generator or Alternator is yours. They are first a Power Supply and second a "...Hmmmn I wonder what else
was changed if one sees the Alternator ( and how correct was it done )".
Rodger & Gabby
COS |
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60 AC Project
