|
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 782
  
Location: Edmonton, Alberta | Hi All:
As my new engine nears completion, it's soon time to pull the front sheet metal off the Fury. I know a few of you have done this. Any tips and tricks?
......"undo all the nuts n' bolts n' screws n' stuff"........
All kidding aside.... any tips or gotchas? Anything I should be aware of? Do I have to pull the front bumper? I want to re-finish the inner fenders and the firewall while I'm at it and I'd like to remove the rad saddle for re-finishing as well.
Any input is appreciated. I know that many of you have gone through/done this and I'd very much like to hear and learn from your experience(s). |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7812
 
Location: Williams California | Hi Gord,
Start by removing the front bumper, as it overrides the lower grill and valances. There is one large nut to remove at the front that secures the core support to the frame, then remove the fasteners in the door jamb that hold the fenders at the rear. There is a small bracket from the inner fenderwell to front of rocker on each side, and also at the bottom dogleg of the fender. Where the corners of the hood close, there is a bolt on each side, then several that retain the inner fender to the frame behind the front wheels. Disconnect the radiator hoses, any applicable wiring, than have a couple friends help lift the entire clip and walk it forward. The hood, and radiator can be removed in order to lighten it up also.
---John |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1906
Location: Ontario, Canada | A few photos of what John described.
Greg
 (image.jpg)
 (image.jpg)
 (image.jpg)
 (image.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 image.jpg (219KB - 181 downloads)
image.jpg (208KB - 177 downloads)
image.jpg (199KB - 175 downloads)
image.jpg (202KB - 169 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | I tried the bumper-first method as well but that went out the window very quick when some of nuts froze up on the bumperbolts.
Got as far as this so the radiator support could be straighened out;
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 8445
Location: Perth Australia | If you can, every day from now untill your ready, go over the bolts with penetrating oil to try and get it soaked in
When I did mine, having never done it before, it took me almost an exact 4 hours doing it by myself.
If you do it (leaving the bonnet hinges on the car), remember, the front gaurds are only going to be supported by the radiator support and are going to be very flappy
Having 3 friends available when your lifting it off would be best (3 lifters and 1 looker)
|
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 782
Location: Edmonton, Alberta | Thanks everyone for posting back. These photos are really useful. I thought I had the space to do this in my garage, but it turns out that I don't. Sucks to be me, but it looks like I'm going to have to pull the components off piece by piece. What y'all have described looks slick. I wish I could do it that way. It looks a lot less painful that what I'm facing right now. If I'd only had that garage pad built another 16' longer....... |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 1906
Location: Ontario, Canada | Gord,
In order to repaint/restore the front end sheet metal parts you would have to disassemble it all anyway. My only comments would be to pay particular attention to any shims/washers used to fasten the trailing edge of the fenders to their brackets, same for the bolt that fastens the rad yoke to the frame and any shims between the rad yoke and the fenders.
I have used the procedure as shown in my pics to very quickly remove the front clip from a freshly restored Dodge and later a Chrysler to fix rather serious engine problems that manifested way too soon after the engines had been "supposedly" rebuilt!!
These were show quality cars and this was the only way one could remove the front clip without wrenching anything but hidden painted bolts. The Plymouth in the pics was just a "pull-it-apart" job that I contracted to do!!
Greg |
|
| |
1957 Plymouth Front Clip Removal
