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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | Y'all,
I was doing a little research on Della, and one article I read said that the differential in the car had a "clumsy redesign," yet it didn't go into detail on what that meant for power, performance or reliability.
Does anyone know what this statement means, and if the car was equipped with a piece of junk, anyone know a good way to remedy the situation while still keeping a fairly stock appearance? I'm not experienced at all with the rear ends of cars.
Thanks, y'all,
John
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7453
   
Location: northern germany | the mopar 8.3/4" is bullet proof. very strong, relatively light and (well serviced) it will last forever. for that reason they used it from 1957-1980(?) at least late 70s. the drivetrain in your desoto (big block, torqueflite, 8.3/4) is the most reliable regular production drivetrain ever build. at least the best of the 50s,60s and 70s. this is the same axle most musclecars and heavy imperials had. so don't worry about it in your 361 desoto.
Edited by 1960fury 2005-02-01 2:31 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | Thank you, Sid.
At least that is one more question answered. I guess upon reflection, the book I read had a heavy GM bias. I'd never heard of a problem with Chrysler rear ends. So, you haven't had a problem with yours, then? I wonder what the book meant by "clumsy redesign." maybe just bad information. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7453
Location: northern germany | 270 000+ miles on my furys rear end which had/has a VERY hard live  no troubles ever in 17 years. no trouble with my girls 144k miles 61 desoto either. all original drivetrain, runs like new.
the book may refered to the 57-64(?) or 65 tapered axle shafts. i admit this is not the best design. after many years sitting its HARD to remove the brake drums. as you WILL find out. but once you got em off and you coat the tapered ends lightly with high temp copper grease and you don't overtighten the shaft nuts you will never have a problem again. there is simply no reason to replace the whole axle just to get rid of the tapered shafts. it's hard to believe but apparently many board members swapped the rear axle just to get rid of the tapered shafts! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | I see.
So what you're saying is the clumsy redesign reference isn't necessarily related to the engineering that went into the differential, but more the design problem posed with removal of the brakes? But, this problem is easily overcome with copper grease and careful tigtening of the shaft nuts. OK. Well, that's good to know. Do you need a special tool when you get the drum brakes off, or do you just put a lot of muscle and skinned knuckles into it? I'm probably going to go to disc brakes, because driving in Texas is pretty dangerous and I need all the stopping power I can get. Did you do this? Or did you stick with the drum brakes?
Also, what kind of restoration or prep work did you do back here before you got the car road ready? Did you replace the seal and the rear-end grease, or did you leave well-enough alone?
Edited by CRLancerman 2005-02-02 9:06 AM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7453
Location: northern germany | the 8 3/4 is bullet proof, its just the tapered shafts that makes working on the axle/brakes a little harder. that got nothing to do with the differential. if you have the $ you can even swapp the diff housing with a mopar performance aluminum one to reduce unsprung weight. yes, you need a HEAVY drum puller. i fabricated one from scratch with 5 arms for each wheel stud because i couldn't find one over here that could do the job. 5 arm pullers work best because they reduce the risk of hub warping. if you can't find one with 5 arms use a 4 arm puller. yes, i have large front AND rear 4 piston vented wilwood disk brakes. i love original period correct looking cars but not when it comes to brakes. brakes are not visible from the outside anyway. good brakes help to keep your car all original, if you know what i mean! yes, BEFORE you drive your car change ALL liquids/greases. engine, tranny/convertor, rear axle, power steering, front and rear wheel bearings, FRONT and rear u-joints, ball joints, tie rods, cooling and brake system. also don't forget to lubricate distributor, speedo cable, parking brake, carb linkage, etc etc. its little work that will pay off, alot cheaper, safer and better than replacing worn parts. most people who buy an old car drive it into the ground. don't be one of them. properly serviced these cars last forever!
ps if you think driving in texas is dangerous come to germany! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | So, let me ask you, Sid,
What are the tricks and secrets of the '61 DeSoto beside the problem with getting the rear brakes apart? Do you remember any little problems or tricks that you had to master as you restored your car that could be useful to me? I know there's probably tons. Here's what I am going to do...or planning to do. Brakes will come first, and I'm going to put discs on front and back. Then, I'm going to change all fluids, rebuild the carb, new distributer, rotor, plugs, wires. Flush the cooling system with the superflush, lube and prep everything so that it's ready to go for its first test drive around the block. According to the owner, the engine is a strong running one, but I don't know that first hand, yet. I haven't decided if I should tear out the engine and rebuild, or if I should just replace all the seals and clean it up. How did you handle that end of it? The engine, I mean. Did you start with a running car?
I know it sounds like I'm attacking this in a haphazard way, but I am just kind of asking questions and trying to put certain projects in some sort of a timeline. |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: northern germany | i only had one problem: RUST. i never had any mechanical troubles. all i do is adjust it to specs and change the oils regulary. if the engine runs good, don't touch it. do not rebuild a good running engine. they did a good job building those big blocks back then. just replace the timing chain/sprockets. might be a good idea to use a new mp high volume oil pump w hardened drive shaft, windage tray and mp electronic ignition. thats what i did. |
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Board Moderator
Posts: 3186
Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) |
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| good brakes help to keep your car all original, if you know what i mean!
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Amen, brother! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | Sounds good to me.
So, what about seals? Did you replace all the seals on the engine, transmission and differential? Or did you just change some and leave others alone?
When you changed out the oil on the differential, was there a lot of metal shavings that needed cleaned out? I'm guessing you take the plate off, drain off the fluid and put the plate on with a new gasket and refill. Do you have to do any cleaning of the differential gears in a special way?
Also, did you have to change the rings out on the pistons to run the car on unleaded gasoline, or do they sell leaded gas in Germany still?
One more question....for today, anyway.
What is it like to drive one of these monsters when you step on the accelerator? Did you do anything to enhance performance?
Edited by CRLancerman 2005-02-03 3:57 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7453
Location: northern germany | of course i replace only seals that leak, why should i replace a good seal? however, if you repack the rear wheel bearings it's a good idea to replace the seals too.
there's a drain plug in the diff.
when i got my car i changed all the oils (mostly to synhetic) drove it for 2 weeks and then changed the oils again. costly, but a good way to clean the drivetrain.
as i said my furys 270k mile engine is still virgin, heads never been off since august 1959. no leaded gas over here, i use a lead substitute.
my fury realy GOES. oh yes, i did alot to improve performance. too much to list. 0-60 6 secs clocked at 143 mph gas pedal only 3/4 down, estimated top speed 155-160 mph. i started modifying my girls 61 desoto coupe and the little low compression 361 responded very well! i added a port matched weiyand aluminum 4 barrel intake, 600cfm aluminum holley carb with anular boosters, large dual exhaust with crossover pipe and glasspacks, windage tray, baffles, large oil pump with hardened shaft, aluminum water pump/housing, double roller timing chain, fluid drive fan, dual ram air system (ramairbox.com) electronic ignition, big coil. also to improve handling i added kyb gas shocks and moved the battery to the right rear trunk (makes a HUGE difference) heavy sway bars are next. it realy drives well and even chirps tires when shifting to second w.o.t. all the modifications are reversible.
Edited by 1960fury 2005-02-04 10:02 AM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7453
Location: northern germany | CRLancerman - 2005-02-03 3:37 PM
When you changed out the oil on the differential, was there a lot of metal shavings that needed cleaned out?
i forgot, no, no visible metal shavings in engine tranny or differential but there was about 1/2" of sludge in the engine oil pan. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8948
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i'm a firm believer in-if it ain't broke don't fix it-----my car-when i bought it had 35,000 mi. and at first thought i wasn't going to touch the engine but the oil changes-recorded on the door jamb oil change stickers over the years were some times 7 years in between-----so i decided to take the engine down and am really glad i did------the sludge was thick allthough the dipstick look relatively clean------the worst was the bearings-almost all were scored-discolored or both and the rear main seal was almost non-existant------some times you just never know for sure what to fix------the easiest way to figure it out is to go by your gut feeling and pocket book------from my experience it will lead you in the right direction---------------------later |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 515
Location: Lubbock, Texas | Y'all feel free to look at my new album. They're the latest pics from the guy from whom I bought the car. I'm taking as many tips and suggestions as I can.
JD |
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1961 DeSoto Rear End
